CallmeMaybe Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 So I just got done looking at a 1988 4.0L 4x4 Comanche. here's my problem, it won't start. The current owner just got done with a headgasket and now the vehicle won't start. He puts the key in and it turns over but then dies. Then when you try to start it, it doesnt turn over again. the main fuel line to the injecters was loose and was spittting fuel so I think it might not be the pump. Nor the battery cause the car was being jumped. The price is right I'm just on the fence about what it could be. I'm not new to mechanical work just jeeps and have always wanted a Comanche. One more thing there is clicking noise coming from the relays to the right of the engine (if thats anything)
cruiser54 Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Get it. This ain't rocket science to fix. Beat him down further on the price.
jeepsouth Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Get it. This ain't rocket science to fix. Beat him down further on the price. yeah, this.
CallmeMaybe Posted November 24, 2012 Author Posted November 24, 2012 I know man, Ive got him downt to 700$ here she is.... http://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/3416641301.html is just that I'm at that stage where I have too many projects already...V8 Rx7 drift moster and 2003 Z06 Corvette. But damn do Ive wanted a Comanche since I was in high school.
CallmeMaybe Posted November 24, 2012 Author Posted November 24, 2012 I'm also a little worried about how the car might have been put back together after the headgasket. Not one of the most intellegent person was working on it and I found several loose odds and ends during the initial look.
cruiser54 Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Start and then die could be as easy as a fuel pump ballast resistor. "$500, don't know what I'm getting into..."
cruiser54 Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I'm also a little worried about how the car might have been put back together after the headgasket. Not one of the most intellegent person was working on it and I found several loose odds and ends during the initial look. That can work to your advantage sometimes. "Okay $400 is all the wife is allowing me to spend. You know how that is, right?"
CallmeMaybe Posted November 24, 2012 Author Posted November 24, 2012 yea thats kinda how I already got him down to 700$
jeepsouth Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Make an offer. You never know he might just take it.
Eagle Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I think your description of the problem is misleading. "Turning over" is when the starter motor causes the engine to rotate. "Turning over" is not "starting" or "firing." Are you saying that the engine initially will start, then die ... then WON'T start when you try again? How long do you have to wait before it will start again?
CallmeMaybe Posted November 24, 2012 Author Posted November 24, 2012 it will initially star then die, then won't do anything for awhile.
mountainman Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 I would say you can't get hurt at 700 no matter what. Grab it for that and get started fixing it. :)
Eagle Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 it will initially star then die, then won't do anything for awhile. It has to be something simple. Buy it, drag it home, and we'll help you figure it out.
cruiser54 Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 It has to be something simple. Buy it, drag it home, and we'll help you figure it out. Yep
Comanche County Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Start and then die could be as easy as a fuel pump ballast resistor. "$500, don't know what I'm getting into..." :agree: Maybe the ballast resistor.
Tom Tom Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Grab it . If you have to many projects then fix it and flip it .
mvusse Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 And back to the first post, the clicking is just the fuel pump relay turning the fuel pump on for a second or so to build initial pressure. If the problem is the ballast resisitor, easiest fix is to just bypass it. 87 models didn't even come with one from the factory, and its only purpose is to quiet down the fuel pump some so customers wouldn't complain about a loud fuel pump. The computer bypasses it on start and during WOT.
ParadiseMJ Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Mine wouldn't start when I bought it, either. The PO dropped the price to $400 and delivered it 60 miles to my place on a flatbed trailer (I think he wanted to get rid of it). After 1/2 hour in my possession it was runnin' down the road. I've put 10-12K miles on it since then, through an over everything I've wanted to tackle...GET IT. Other than that...get it! I'd grab it! Yes!! GO.
Akula69 Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 If it was closer I'd buy it for $700.00 right now!
Exgrayxj Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 Ad is still up...says interior is rough...mine was/is rougher than that appears, ran on 4-5 cylinders but did drive 100 miles home with my Harley in the back...mine not as straight, but original paint. All in all, except for the paint job, that one looks to be better than mine was. I paid $1200.And only recently got it fairly reliable, still has a VERY noisy dana 35. Used wheels/tires, my time and some jy parts, some new stuff, I am over 2k probably now... Niceville would be about a 5-600 mile round trip for me... IF you really want a mj...don't wait! $$$ talks. LOUD.
Thunderbear Posted November 24, 2012 Posted November 24, 2012 When mine wouldn't fire up reliably it was because the nut holding the starter wire on wasn't tight enough. Usually it's simple.
dasbulliwagen Posted November 25, 2012 Posted November 25, 2012 Mine did the sometimes no start thing after I bought it. Ended up the battery terminals just needed a good cleaning.
jeepsouth Posted November 25, 2012 Posted November 25, 2012 Dude pull the trigger ,this forum will help you sort it out.
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