rocketwheels Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 just getting my $200 Comanche moving after sitting almost 10 years in a chicken coop. The clutch pedal worked once then went to the floor. I cracked the bleed screw and let it dribble a little then re-tightened, the clutch started working again. Obviously a clutch bleed is a good idea. My question is, is there a way to adjust where the clutch engages during pedal travel? I didn't see anything in my haynes manual on this type of adjustment, just on how to bleed the system. Right now the clutch engages about an inch off the floor. Will this change after I bleed the system? :hmm: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Nope, there is no adjustment. Bleeding might make the pedal better, but after sitting for ten years it may need a new master and slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986Comanche Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 just getting my $200 Comanche moving after sitting almost 10 years in a chicken coop. The clutch pedal worked once then went to the floor. I cracked the bleed screw and let it dribble a little then re-tightened, the clutch started working again. Obviously a clutch bleed is a good idea. My question is, is there a way to adjust where the clutch engages during pedal travel? I didn't see anything in my haynes manual on this type of adjustment, just on how to bleed the system. Right now the clutch engages about an inch off the floor. Will this change after I bleed the system? :hmm: Nope, Just like Eagle said the clutch is not adjustable. I would bleed the clutch out really good though and see how it works then. The bleeding will not change where the clutch engages at. I would say the clutch must be really good if it's engaging that close to the floor. It has a lot left on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 After replacing the slave cylinder in one of my trucks, the clutch engaged towards the top of midway through, versus at the floor before replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted February 4, 2007 Author Share Posted February 4, 2007 I would say the clutch must be really good if it's engaging that close to the floor. It has a lot left on it. ...from the history I gathered, it seems the truck had the motor replaced about 5k miles before it was left to sit, maybe they installed a new clutch/pressure plate while this was in progress. Then again, as feerocknok experienced, it may be the action of a failing slave cylinder..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 The one you need to watch, though, is the clutch master cylinder. When they leak, the fluid runs back along the operating rod and drips onto the fuse panel. What brake fluid does to electrical contacts is ... not pretty. That's just one of the reasons I run silicone brake fluid in my clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 What brake fluid does to electrical contacts is ... not pretty. Consider everywhere it sits to not be pretty, whether it's electronics or paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 What brake fluid does to electrical contacts is ... not pretty. Consider everywhere it sits to not be pretty, whether it's electronics or paint. True enough. Paint can be repainted. It eats away the copper on the contacts and leaves the entire fuse panel essentially toast. Not a major PITA to replace (if you happen to have a spare fuse panel on the shelf), but certainly a PITA of some order of magnitude when the problem can (and should) be avoided. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 I just got my hands on a universal fuse box for my 90. I'm not looking forward to installing it. :( But the old one is falling apart and causing all sorts of electrical quirks. Stupid Jeep had to put the stupid clutch master right above the stupid fuse box. :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 I just got my hands on a universal fuse box for my 90. I'm not looking forward to installing it. :( But the old one is falling apart and causing all sorts of electrical quirks. Stupid Jeep had to put the stupid clutch master right above the stupid fuse box. :headpop: why not relocate or put a sealed box around it with a cover you can remove to access fuses? wouldnt have to worry about that again. just a thought... :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Excellent idea! :thumbsup: The box I bought is "weather resistant" so I should be good there. Not sure where I want to mount it, but the leads are pretty long so I've got options. This is the one I got: Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block / 7 Circuits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted February 5, 2007 Author Share Posted February 5, 2007 ..."need to watch, though, is the clutch master cylinder. When they leak, " ...I seem to be good there, nice and dry, but I will keep an eye on it. To use the synthetic, can I just flush /drain the system and refill, or does it need to be completely cleaned so there won't be any brakefluid/synthetic negative reaction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 I had an 85 XJ that had a leaky slave cylinder, it caught the fuse box on fire..... talk about a bad day. Shortly there after I sold said jeep and never looked back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 bah, when it comes time to rewire the MJ this summer, thank god I got a DD now, it's going to get an HO PDC under the hood. Cheap, $25 with all the fuses and relays in it from the yard, and it will work just like stock. Going to replace all of the fusible links with maxi fuses, get to run a standard relay for the starter, and I'll have enough circuits left over to run accesories and an upgraded lighting harness. and the PDC comes apart, so you can get at the bottom of the sockets and figure out the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 That looks like fun......not! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 To use the synthetic, can I just flush /drain the system and refill, or does it need to be completely cleaned so there won't be any brakefluid/synthetic negative reaction? You don't have to drain the system. Just pull the old stuff out of the master, refill, and bleed normally until you see the new stuff coming out the other end. But ... I don't know if synthetic brake/clutch fluid is any less corrosive than plain old DOT 3 or DOT 4. I didn't say "synthetic," I said "silicone." It's rated DOT 5, it doesn't attack paint or electrical contact, it's non-hygroscopic (doesn't attract and hold water molecules) ... and it's expensive. But the clutch system doesn't hold a lot. Since I use it in the brakes anyway, I don't worry about the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 The only think I can say about the silicone is that it's awesome, it has a higher boiling point and doesn't absorb water. it's perfect for a system like a clutch that doesn't get as much regular maintenance like the brakes. I mean, come on, I check the fluid now and then, but it doesn't get bled like the brakes every year. Anyway, my addition: most dot 5 fluids and dot 3 fluids don't mix well. So if you make the changeoever buy some extra fluid, and bleed the hell out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Anyway, my addition: most dot 5 fluids and dot 3 fluids don't mix well. So if you make the changeoever buy some extra fluid, and bleed the hell out of it. Synthetic brake fluid (which I think is DOT-4) mixes with and is compatible with conventional DOT-3 brake fluid. Silicone is a different animal. It is "compatible" with conventional brake fluid, but it doesn't mix with it. Think oil and water in the same container. They don't interact chemically, but they also don't mix. The same thing occurs when you combine conventional and silicone brake fluids. They'll sit in the same system and not cause any problems ... but they are not miscible (don't mix), and with even a little bit of conventional stuff in there you lose the benefits of the silicone. Replacing with silicone is easy enough. Use a kitchen baster to remove as much of the conventional as you can from the master cylinder, fill with silicone, and bleed until you see blue (or yellow, depending on brand) juice coming out of the bleeder port. When you see that ... you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 yes, I was just stressing that topping off your master with silicone wouldn't do you any good unless you bleed the whole system out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted February 6, 2007 Author Share Posted February 6, 2007 ..."silicone wouldn't do you any good unless you bleed the whole system out." ...Good tech advice !! I'll be sure to make this change in the near future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketwheels Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 OK , I'm good to go on the clutch/slave cylinder thing. The frozen slave worked after cracking the bleed screw, then did a quick bleed and got the "at the floor" release. Did a complete bleed this weekend and the release is between 1/3rd and 1/2half the way to the floor. The Reservor is also looking good, no weeping or seepage. Bad news is , now the Brakes master cylinder is getting moist around the pressure booster. Did a complete bleed on it and then all 4 wheels. I've got"iffy" pedal action. Oh well! At least I enlisted the help of my 8 year old daughter Leslie to pump the pedals for me. She had a blast doing something that was actually productive and not "make busy"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Just a little word of wisdom here: Only use Castrol GTLMA brake fluid if possible. The low moisture absorption helps a lot and the fluid is formulated to NOT attack the regular rubber seals in these (yes, they are natural rubber. The early ones had this requirement written on the fill lid) This from a guy who started out working on British cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 I have an 87 (200K miles) and an 89 MJ (76K miles). Both are 4.0s and 5 speeds. On the 89, the clutch engages near the top of the clutch swing. The 87 engages near the bottom and the pedal is spongy above full engagement. Neither has any slippage. Based on appearances, neither clutch master cylinder or slave have been replaced or worked on in years. I could not find what I was looking for in CC search so found this by using google. This relatively short thread is more than 10 and a half years old. I know of the corrosiveness of dot 3 on the fuse panel. Is the rest of the info still current? No clutch adjustment? Many of the links no longer work. What is current with fluids? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 The 87 probably needs bleeding. Sounds like there’s air in the line. The 89 may have a bad (going bad) slave cylinder. Are the the trans original? Internal slave cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Markings are not even a little bit readable on the edge of the driver's side doors. There is no slippage or leaks on either the 87 or 89. The 87 has a horizontal gear shift handle with finger notches with Hurst written on it but I doubt there is more than the handle. A bit of interesting Hurst history is copied and pasted. By the early 1960s, Hurst transmission shifters and other products had become legendary in auto racing, particularly in drag racing, and among custom car makers. Many automobile enthusiasts replaced flimsy factory shifters (and steering column shifters, as well) with Hurst floor shifters to obtain better control of gear selection, particularly for competitive driving.[4] As automotive historian Mike Mueller noted, "If you didn't have a Hurst shifter in your supercar, you were a mild-mannered loser."[4] General Motors' official policy up to that time had prohibited the use of the names of outside vendors on GM products. Pontiac Division manager Elliot "Pete" Estes convinced the corporation that having the Hurst name on its cars' shifters would be an effective sales tool. Various Pontiac models had already been equipped with Hurst shifters from the factory, but the Hurst name did not actually appear on Pontiac shifters until 1965. Hurst's shifters were so good that U.S. automakers were forced to offer Hurst branded gear sticks on their muscle car models, although at the time they preferred manufacturing their own parts rather than outsourcing.[4] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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