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Does anybody know If there is a second plug for the fuse box harness (other than the one on the firewall) or is it just part of the main harness? Need to replace the box and it would be nice to just plug a new one in instead of cut and splice wires or take everything apart one wire at a time.

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It's part of the main harness. You will either have to cut and splice the wires. Remove the whole harness, not fun, or as I do. Remove the terminals from the fuse box. Label everything. Take pics or make a drawing. Radio Shack may or may not have the tool for removing the terminals. Just transfer one wire at a time. Much easier than doing them all at once. I made my own tool using a old hack saw blade. Might want to practice on an old box as their is a trick to it but once you get the hang of it you can pop 'em out one a second.

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I couldn't manage to pop out the terminals, but you also have to consider that the terminals are the cause of your fusebox problems. So, instead I went out and got a whole new box from an '88 Auto XJ and just soldered all the lines in...it wasn't as complicated or time consuming as I thought, I got it done in about 3 1/2 hours....all of my electronics work 'great' now.

 

That's if you're swapping it because of the brake fluid problem.

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I couldn't manage to pop out the terminals, but you also have to consider that the terminals are the cause of your fusebox problems. So, instead I went out and got a whole new box from an '88 Auto XJ and just soldered all the lines in...it wasn't as complicated or time consuming as I thought, I got it done in about 3 1/2 hours....all of my electronics work 'great' now.

 

That's if you're swapping it because of the brake fluid problem.

 

Got my pristine fuse block today from an 90 automatic XJ (no clutch MC leaking on it), will be doing the swap this week. Will cut, splice and solder the new box in. The terminals on the original block were very brittle and fragile, they would break off when I pulled fuses. :shake: I did find these after I cut the old fuse block out, oh well.

 

Hows everyone cleaning the black tar form the bulk head connector and are you going back with any king of Dielectric grease? How about he bulkhead connector gasket? Mine got destroyed separating the connector. Any kind of sealant that will seal it up but still let it come apart next time I need to remove?

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Yep its being changed due to a leaky master. It started a few months ago that my dash lights would cut out from time to time. Then the other day my parking lights started to cut out so I figure its about time to do the swap.

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I'm very close to doing this swap as well and am grateful for the tips. Never swapped a fuse box before, but I think I will be doing the cut and solder/heatshrink method. I have a nice fuse box from a 89 XJ to go into my 89 MJ so I'm hoping the wire colors are going to be all the same... should be a fun little project, lol.

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Have you thought about getting a donor engine bay harness instead of cut and soldering every wire? This would simplify the whole process and the connectors are plug and play. There are many different harnesses out there for our trucks but in the end the plugs are all the same. Examples are injectors, dist, starter, relay center etc.

 

Seems like an excellent alternative to me. :hmm:

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I pity the person who decides to swap a dash harness....removing them alone is a royal PITA! Unless you're disassembling the dash to begin with; I wouldn't even bother....just cut, solder, heat shrink and tape; you'll be fine as long as you take your time and use a little brain work.

 

I recommend pulling the fuse box as far away from the firewall as you can manage; this involves removing one of the steering column braces and unbolting the engine bay > interior harness from inside the engine bay so the interior connector can follow the fuse box.

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I pity the person who decides to swap a dash harness....removing them alone is a royal PITA! Unless you're disassembling the dash to begin with; I wouldn't even bother....just cut, solder, heat shrink and tape; you'll be fine as long as you take your time and use a little brain work.

 

I recommend pulling the fuse box as far away from the firewall as you can manage; this involves removing one of the steering column braces and unbolting the engine bay > interior harness from inside the engine bay so the interior connector can follow the fuse box.

That's what I did and it got the fuse block on the floor pretty much, so access is much better. I also removed the seat which helps as well. Should have mine finished up tomorrow night, then on to the rear disk brake swap. :wrench:

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  • 1 year later...

Yikes. I'm about to undertake the same thing. I like what Jim says about swapping his out that way. (Thanks again for the box, Jim!) I'd like to do a wire for wire swap now that I've seen what it looks like. 

 

Anyone have any other recommendations for accessing the panel? Do you have to take the whole dash apart? I have an 86, and I've been told the early ones weren't as easy to disassemble. My friend and I are trying this and we're both pretty inexperienced with Jeeps.

 

Thanks!

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  • 1 year later...

Look at the fuse box terminal pin that the poster found on the internet. 

 

When you enlarge the single pin photo, you will see a brass tab sticking out the side of the terminal.  Use a thin strip of metal and push it down beside the terminal pin to press this pin in toward the body of the terminal. 

 

That tab is what locks the terminal into the block.  once the tab is depressed, the terminal should just slide out of the fuse block.....there may be a matching tab on the other side of the terminal, if so, both must be depressed simultaneously.

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  • 4 months later...

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