Diesel Fuel Only - Factory Diesel Comanche

[Dookie]

That thing revs faster than my 4.0 now lol

[Automan2164]

God give me strength. I got the brakes buttoned up, the shifter knob locked into the perfect angle, and drove it into work today. Felt much better. I wasn't slamming gears because of some $#!&ty shift knob, just smooth running, cruising effortlessly. Got home tonight, told Angela to get her stuff together and we would go for a Friday night joyride. Nope. Got out of the driveway and blew the parking light fuse. Changed it, blew it again.

 

WHY MUST YOU FIGHT ME AT EVERY TURN!? SO FRUSTRATING.

 

Rob :headpop: :wall:

[Automan2164]

Got back to the light issue today. Sat down with a handful of fuses, and started the diagnostics.

 

Going to have to use your imagination, I didn't take any pics... Sorry. :(

 

First I just turned on the running lights to see if they would pop. Sure enough, they did. Next step was to isolate the issue. I know there are some problems with the turn signal/running lamp sockets, so I went right to there. Took off the bezels, and checked the sockets. All seemed good. Next step was the friggen running lights. I had a suspicion that 5 more filaments on the system might be overloading it, so I pulled the inline fuse I found that runs up to them. Waited a bit, then I got a pop. Only one thing left to isolate was the tails. I popped them out, and disconnected the rear harness behind the drivers tail. No pops. Left it on while I wrapped up some loose ends to make sure, and they stayed on the whole time.

 

Looks like I found my problem area. I started by pulling all the bulbs and checking to make sure that I had no continuity to ground with the bulbs out. That checked out. Perplexed by this point, I looked at the sockets. A few of them had gouges in the inside from previous owners putting the bulbs in wrong... The bulbs may look like a 2 position, but they can only go in one way. I thought I remembered feeling some goofiness putting a few of them in, so I rechecked. Sure enough, I had ended up following the grooves set by the owners before me. The tail lamp circuit was powering the brighter, more amperage brake filament, and that was the problem. I put all the bulbs in right, and everything is whole once again.

 

Needless to say, check the simple stuff first. :idea:

 

dvmFmlN0_TQ

 

Rob

[Automan2164]

Been a little bit since I posted on here... Have an update.

 

I've been sort of plagued with a nagging vibration that acted like a u-joint. It started somewhat after I got it back from Phil, and I had removed the rear shaft to tow it up to his place. I didn't mark the joint, so I figured that when they put it back in, it might have just not been back in the exact place that I had taken it out of. That, and the trans/engine mounts are less than stellar, so I just figured that I might be getting some vibes from that. The vibe would show up about 55, and feel like an out of balance shaft. As you were coming to a stop, it would shake like a dry joint. Simple enough, I'll just change it when I get a chance this week. Been getting worse, might as well.

 

Today I took it out to go get some fuel, and see what kind of mileage I've been getting just be bopping around town. Last tank was 25ish, and that was with leaked fuel, and the pump issues. On the way up (I cross into WI to get fuel, $0.30 cheaper a gal) I noticed that the death wobble was coming back... I slowed down a bit from 55, and I was good. I hit a bump, and heard something pop in the front end, thought it was weird because I had gone through it and there should be nothing loose. Then it death wobbled something awful. I slowed down to 35, but was lucky to be entering town, so I had to do 30 anyway. The ride felt a little extra grumbly, and I now had a brake squeak on the drivers front. Tap on the brakes would shut it up. Oh well, another little thing to look at.

 

Got my fuel, and started to leave the station. I could hear a tap, tap, tap coming from the drivers front. Now I am curious. Pulled out, and right back into a parking lot. When I got out, I noticed the hubcap was cocked. Pulled the cap:

 

 

 

I had snapped a stud. Not only that, but all of them were loose. I pulled out the tools, and gave them a crank. I also checked the other side. All was good. Once I got down the road, it was smooth as butter again. Looks like I found my vibe.

 

Soooo... Looks like this week, I am going to replace all the studs on the drivers side, and I will most likely do the other side too, as well as lube and clean the front brakes.

 

But on the bright side, I am getting 28.3 MPG... IN TOWN!!! I keep thinking that the fuel gauge is broken because it just doesn't move like it should based on my other MJ's/XJ's I've had. I had about a half tank on 360 miles, and only put in about 12 gallons. By my estimations, this thing would get around 700 miles to a tank.

 

Awesome! I can't wait to do a road trip and see what kind of miles I get out of it!

Rob :cheers:

[ComancheKid45]

I take it you havent had the front wheels off yet? if you have well... :no:

 

Either way hope that was the cause of your issues and theres many happy miles to come :cheers:

[jeepjerry]

Good thing you caught it before more of them snapped! Sounds like it was a heck of a ride.

[Automan2164]

Sat down to fix it right today:

 

One piece lugnuts, and 10 new studs for the front (other 5 were already in).

 

 

Part number for those interested.

 

 

Pulling them through. I had to commit a bit of hackery because the backing plate was getting in the way of taking out/putting in the studs, so I used the back of my sledge to slightly crease the inner bottom to squeeze them through. I just didn't feel like pulling the hubs for some studs.

 

 

While I was at it, I picked these up from Pat when I picked up the truck from his dad's place. Phil was telling me I needed shocks, and Pat just happened to have some around. Sold.

 

 

PN.

 

 

Old and nasty.

 

 

New and smooth.

 

 

I didn't grab any pics of the lug nuts on, but I think you get the idea. I am just glad to be rid of those stupid 2 piece nuts. Up here in the midrust, the caps always come off, and leave you with different sizes, or twist, and I end up hammering a socket on. I've even had one where it snapped off the nut part, and left the cone seat broken off with no way to grab it in a deep recessed pocket in a factory alloy... Talk about pissed.

 

Rob :cheers:

[knever3]

Is anyone else having trouble seeing the pics? :redX:

[Automan2164]

Is anyone else having trouble seeing the pics? :redX:

 

I can see them... :dunno:

 

Got myself another smathering of parts to toss at this thing in the ever long quest of wrapping up loose ends.

 

Engine mounts

Trans mount

U-joints for the rear shaft

Output shaft seal

Rear pinion seal

Rear shocks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out with the old. I was surprised that these went so easily. I had them in and out like butter. Didn't fight me like most u-joints have lately. It was a welcome change. No finished pics, will come tomorrow.

 

 

New output shaft seal.

 

 

Pic of the diff cover off and a shot of the new shocks.

 

 

Gears look good, although I was disappointed to find that I have an open differential, not a traclok like I thought. Oh well.

 

 

Sexy shock.

 

 

I'll have to take some more pics tomorrow, it was getting dark as I was wrapping up. I still have to put the pinion seal in yet, as well as button up the rear diff. I might try the trans mount tomorrow, but the engine mounts can wait until after the LKQ run on Saturday. I am still unsure if they will even work. I know the part numbers between the gasser and the diesel are different, but according to the parts stores, they are one in the same. Doesn't matter anyway, as the dealer doesn't have them anymore. Worth a shot.

 

Rob

[Dookie]

Hey how do u like the monroes? I have the LTs on my xj and it rides like a boat. The new mj don't ride much harsher but handles way better with some old gas brand. Also what tire size is on ur mj?

[Dadinator]

Rob,

First time I've looked at this thread. Good man not to blow it up when you were having all the trouble.

Glad it's doing good now.

 

Taken a road trip yet? Would love to see MPG figures on the road.

 

How is the power compared to a 2.5 and 4.0 gas engine?

 

Cool Truck!

[Automan2164]

Rob,

First time I've looked at this thread. Good man not to blow it up when you were having all the trouble.

Glad it's doing good now.

 

Taken a road trip yet? Would love to see MPG figures on the road.

 

How is the power compared to a 2.5 and 4.0 gas engine?

 

Cool Truck!

 

Thanks. It was touch and go with getting things straightened out, but it helps having opsled nearby, having had one for years. I haven't done any huge trips, but couple hours here and there. It runs good, but with the 4.10s and stock tires, its really wound up. At 55, it's running about 3000 rpm. I have some vibrations to chase down, but a fun ride none the less. In a good mix of city/highway, I average a solid 30 MPG. Last tank was 30.5. It has the power of a 2.5, with a little extra grunt.

 

Rob

[Dookie]

do you have the ax4? (previous pictures aren't showing)

[Automan2164]

do you have the ax4? (previous pictures aren't showing)

 

AX5 with a special input shaft for the diesel. It's adequate, but the bellhousing is not. It's a common problem for the starter to crack the bellhousing because of the torque. Fortunately for me, someone had already rewelded it.

 

Rob

[opsled]

Welded mine too. Has been fine since (100+000 miles). Wierd that the welded is OK and the non welded broke???

 

Say Rob, Pat says you want a window sticker. Could you scan mine and insert your info then print?? Would lone it if so.

 

opsled

 

PS, Figure out anything on your house electrical issues?? Would be interseting to know.

[Dookie]

At 55, it's running about 3000 rpm

 

Thats why I asked cause that seems awfully high. I was planning to use my already built 4.10 axles in my mj on stock sized tires but don't want to undergear the 6. I noticed the ax5 is a .85 OD instead of .79 like the ax15 though.

[Wave100205]

Any chance you could update the pictures to the first 6-7 pages of the thread?? I have a 1985 MJ with the 2.1 turbo diesel that I'm currently fixing up so seeing pics would be extremely helpful for me.

[Automan2164]

Yeah, sorry. I host all my stuff on facebook, and they changed how the pics were hosted. It's on my list of to-do's, but for the time being, just ask if you need any specific pics or help.

 

Rob

[A-man930]

subscribing

[azdiesel]

fyo  If you need to rebuild your vacuum pump---as i did, you can buy  two vacuum pump service kits for a 240 to 300d Mercedes. Bought mine a BAP auto parts.  one kit includes the two one way check valves & the other is the diaphram.

[Comanchepur]

This project are very interesting. The only problem that I saw where you find parts for the renault motor. All projects are amazing because are a new perpective to see the vehicle.

:cheers: Celebrate when is running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banana:  . :MJ 1: .  :rock on:  :chillin:  :smart: 

[86mjmanche]

I see a lot of people with the Dana 30-35 combo..... Mines also a 2.1 factory td but I have the dana30 amc 20.... Is that rare??

[CobraMarty]

Do you have any connections for an injector pump?  I think mine took a dump.  Either rebuilt or NOS.

Thanks.

[JENSSEN]

Trying to start a Diesel Registry,.. So If you own one please join!

 

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Factory-MJ-XJ-Diesel-Registry/622237631213014

[CobraMarty]

Had a bad running and stalling issue and found that when we redid the fuel tank pickup, you really do need the sock filter.  We sucked up some fuel tank debris and clogged the fuel filter/water separator and clogged the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter.  Cleaned everyting, blew it out, replaced the filter and added a filter sock to the fuel tank pickup.  Back running well.

 

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