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How to cut MJ in half to make trailer out of bed?


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Here's the deal: I have access to a 2wd long bed MJ which is wrecked [bad] in the front, no engine, and crushed roof [large branch]. Interior is gross thanks it sitting with no windows for 2 years. The goal is to make a trailer out of the back [generally undamaged] half. The front half is destined for the crusher after any good parts are stripped.

 

So, apart from taking out the fuel tank and lines, and removing the brake lines and parking brake cable, [no trans or driveshaft] and severing the wiring...

 

where would I begin to cut to bisect the truck? Under the cab? Between cab and bed? Slightly under bed behind the cab? Forget cutting and put the bed on a trailer chassis? I have access to reciprocating saws and other hand non-pneumatic power tools [no torches/welders either].

 

Please advise!

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I would it could be cut where the rear frame rails join the unibody at the back of the cab then build a tonge out of some additional steel. This would allow you to retain the existing springs/axle. Obviously ditch the tank.

 

Personally, I would want to ditch the turning differential and replace with a straight trailer axle.

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...I would want to ditch the turning differential and replace with a straight trailer axle.
I would scratch build a frame, use a trailer axle and mount the bed on it.

 

Would a trailer axle be preferred for weight savings, ground clearance, and drag incurred by the turning axle/diff and therefore be a better route to go than retaining the D35?

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I would remove the D35 and put in either a trailer axle from Tractor Supply or a straight rear axle from something compatible like a rear axle from a front wheel drive mini-van (just a straight axle tube with brakes). Other than that I'd just get/build a frame.

 

I'm thinkin' you're gonna have to do some welding, or have it done.

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Wouldn't it be cheaper/more practical to just buy a TSC trailer? Is all the money and time invested in the "MJ" trailer really worth it if you have to fab a straight axle in? Not to mention building a frame, tongue, and then having to get it inspected and titled.

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Friend built one out of one of my wrecked trucks.

 

n_a

 

He cut it at the firewall, then cut away the cab, notched the framerails, and bent them into the tongue. Gusseted it in the right places, and called it a job.

 

Let me add that it was a little weird that when I put the period at the end of job that I automatically entered comancheclub.com mode, and added a .com after striking the b key... Cripes.

Rob

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alternators/generators do not make use of "wasted" energy in that sense, they cause drag which counteracts any power gains. :thumbsup:

 

ya... you are right, I did not think of that... The question should have been: could you hook up a generator or alternator or any other mechanically driven device to use the drive shaft or the drive shaft hook up for "might as well" uses like charging extra batteries or topping off air tanks while on the move.

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...having to get it inspected and titled.

 

No state inspection in Oregon [only emissions for the Portland/Salem corridor], and trailers do not require titling if under a certain load weight. Flatbeds and enclosed cargo trailers, yes. Pickup trailers, dual snowmobile/motorcycle/ATV trailers, and other similar light duty trailers, no. They just have to have working lights/signals.

 

There are some really ghetto trailers around here that wouldn't be remotely legal in other states.

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getto built mine... traded the v6 and trans for a quick weld job. the thing looks like superpoo but took som serious abuse... 1 ton o gravel short distances, but regular for 2 winters. pulled great too.

that one was a 50 mi hwy run.

 

edit: those eliminators are not the same truck, just twins.

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So I got it home last night and it does not have a crushed roof and severly damaged front as described to me. It does, however, have a mildly crunched front, tweaked passenger door, and no engine.

 

Time to push it into the garage and find the blades for the Sawzall!

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Just find an old Ford/Chevy/Dodge and rape the dam thing for the bed. Must be 100 of them for each Comanche.

 

All are cheaper and easier to find than a Comanche truck bed in good shape.

 

Why tear up a good Comanche truck bed for a trailer???

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Why tear up a good Comanche truck bed for a trailer???

 

I will let the pics do the talking, pretty much in the condition I got it in:

 

It's had it. Pics don't show the accident damage.

 

 

Its a 2.8, and the wiring is hacked up and good portions missing.

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