Walkenvol

To me, anything that's a Jeep bolt-on option is keeping it stock.

So what's your impression of the 3.3 so far? How's the power, top speed, and mileage? Fantastic build!

Welcome! Look forward to following your build. Keep posting lots of pictures.

Any type of info on your hard cover? Would like to know who made it and for what vehicle as its probably not designed for a comanche?

Have you seen the Liberty light bar fitted on an MJ? Would look really nice with your updated front clip.

I had a '82 datsun p'up with this motor and a 5-speed. Always got 30 mpg's no matter if I road it hard or easy. Don't recall it being particularly slow but it was geared pretty low with wot being around 75mph. I've read somewhere that you can get a manifold off of an 80's era gas turbo'ed Nissan Maxima and with slight mods it will bolt up to the SD-22 for a turbo addition? Turbo that beast and with the right gearing I'd think it'd make a great rig. I think it also has gear driven cam and ip so no timing chains to go bad. If its got good compression, 200K might be a good runner. There's a regular poster to the MB forum peachparts named charmalu who owns a couple of these and appears to be a gatherer of pick-n-pull parts if you are looking for advise or spare parts. I'd also check the Nissan Patrol forums as I think those were predominantly diesel in foreign markets.

Take cash then as with enough cutting and welding anything can be made to fit.

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/3797457872.html I think I've read where this is a good replacement for folks with an '86 with the 2.8. Hope this helps someone out.

The flat bed was interesting. I'd like to see someone with a rusty bed go retro and make a step side bed. The sides would be easy enough and trailer fenders are cheap and come in a bunch of different sizes. The tail gate would be the hardest part to make it stock looking unless a J-10 tailgate would work? A step side comanche would be way cool.

Do you have a picture of this setup installed?

If your not satisfied with your truck's braking, then upgrading to the later model brake booster will probably give you more improvement than the difference between remanufactured calipers vs OEM. Check out the DIY threads.

I got the same application using a hopper gun (tool used to apply popcorn ceiling treatment). I used the rustoleum bedliner product and its stayed on well for 10 years. Same look as the pros get.

move its location on the front of the motor to a higher and dryer spot....in place of the a/c if that's disabled.

I can't recall where I read it, but someone that diesel repowered a Cherokee used the boost guage from a Chrysler LeBaren or such from the same era that fit into the Cherokee guage cluster. I might be remembering the wrong model, but whatever motor Chrysler turbo'ed during the early 90's. Looked stock as I recall. From Wiki ; intercooled version of the 2.2. This engine was first used in the 1986 Shelby GLH-S, and a different version, with changes to increase durability, was produced by the factory the following year.[2] Shelby installed it in his updated 1987 GLHS, as well as his Shelby Lancer and Shelby CSX. Chrysler's strengthened version of this engine, with a forged crankshaft and connecting rods, was used in the Shelby Z package of the 1987–1988 Dodge Daytona and, later, in other cars

They can be hard to locate. Have you considered a Kubota also? http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/78776-s-10-kubota-diesel-conversion.html The site might block a link to another message board, but there's some interesting results from repurposing the motors from refridgerant truck units which might expand your possible donors?

What happened to the diesel swap?

On the early Jeep moon hubcaps, the size changed slightly when AMC took over in '71/72 and the moons will not interchange between eras. Be sure to check the hubcaps you want to use with the wheel before buying.

Are the '91 xj and the ''88 mj always the same diff gear ratio with the manual trannys?

Work on cars or the girl in your sig? I find myself staring too long at her.

The common issue in this thread is the stopping. Properly functioning trailer brakes solve that issue quite well and should allow safe towing up to the factory rated capacity using common sense driving techniques applicable to towing. The 4.0 has plenty of grunt to pull the weight along.

Sweet looking interior and even sweeter looking helper!

I understand the 2.5 Dakota uses an AX-15 so a Dakota 2.5 bellhousing should join your 2.5 and any AX-15 (Dodge or Jeep)....is that what you were asking?

Novac and Advanced both offer a Ford to ax15 bell housing adapter. Grab a bell housing from a straight shift f 150. Several places offer a wiring harness. Might end up with very little custom work. I read this on another thread "Stick with the 5.0L engines only: 88-93 year models as these are the OBD1 engines and require no computer work, even if you build it. As soon as you turn the engine over the computer re-learns all parameters of the combustion cycle. Great candidate"

As I understand it, the speed sensor is behind the speedo. The cable from the tranny/tc screws into the speed sensor and then a short cable from the speed sensor to the speedo. If your truck came with a cruise and you wanted to eliminate the speed sensor for some reason, would the cable from the tranny/tc be too short to screw onto the speedo? If your truck didn't come with cruise and you were adding it, would your existing cable be too long or could you just unscrew it from the speedo and screw it into the speed sensor? In other words, are there 2 different speedo cables (besides the short one between the speedo and the speed sensor)?

Nice write up...thanks!