Walkenvol

How far up from the bottom should the 2" square cutout be if 2" square tubing is used to weld between the brackets?

Mybe its got a good windshield?

Every Comanche is pretty much a project truck since they are between 19-25 years old. How do you plan on ultimately using the truck? Daily driver, rock crawler, fire wood hauler? If you want to fix up a Comanche for general use, then find one with little to no rust. If your going to beat on it, then the body condition is not a big deal. Your in the south so it shouldn't be too hard if your patient. Here's one in KY that looks pretty good. http://bgky.craigslist.org/cto/2211036965.html They come up on craigslist around these parts regularly. Good luck.

My $0.02 is comanche's aren't that rare. Why buy a rusted one when a cancer free one can be located. Personally, I'd travel to get rust free vs picking up something rusted local. Much easier to fix mechanical issues than rust IMHO. Other than the floor boards, fix all the rust spots you see and more pop up later - an ongoing battle. Different issue if your after a trail beater.

For those of us who have the ability to cut / drill / weld steel, are you still committed to posting the bracket template?

Would need to be an MJ. Still looking.

Do you have some pictures of these installed?

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20853 In the DIY section.

Still looking

http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18796 This guy's retro wrangler bed was your option #2. He does amazing work. I think he used reproduction bed parts then built a tailgate and fenders. http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18796 He also has a Guacho step side bed truck thread which uses a rounded fender. In this one he sizes an 80's stepside bed to fit with custom tailgate and fenders. His threads are addictive and very long so be warned. They are also full of detailed info that will be very helpful if you decide to build a custom truck bed. I vote go for it as I think it would look great!

IMHO, the weight, torque, and rpm range requires fewer drive train adjustments than the traditional diesels (not very familiar with the VW TDI so it may have a higher RPM range like the MB). A 4BTA or Isuzu would require axle regearing and the extra weight would be a coil spring flatner and their torque levels would break the stock drive train and axles. If there was a easy way to deal with the front sump oil pan design on the OM617, then I would agree on it being a "good" substitute. Right now I view it as a "doable" substitute. After I work out the track bar and steering box mods maybe I will not think it was that bad. The steering mods are a concern to me and where to hang an a/c. The 4 cylinder MB diesels fit the MJ, XJ, and TJ better but are not turbo'ed and I don't think I would be happy with the performance level. Anyone ever put TJ leaf springs on the front of an XJ or MJ? Would the uniframe handle it?

I've got an OM617 on the engine stand right now awaiting the brown truck to deliver some replacement gaskets. If your current engine is in need of replacement, it appears to me the price to repower with a recovered OM617 will be in the same price range as a replacement 4.0 but will take considerable more time. If you have an AX-15, the adaptors are $340 plus shipping plus you have to fab up motor mounts and all the other accessory stuff. The MB OM617 with life span claims of 400K to 500K appears to outlive the MB body especially in the rust belt. I found one with 125K that ended up costing me apx $50 after scrapping the MB body. I've read where others have recovered all their costs and a little more so you might do better. I pulled the oil pan and valve cover and the top end has the look of a almost new motor? Personally, I'm not doing it to save fuel expenses as I just thought it would be a fun project. I expect the diesel to get 20-25% better economy than a 4.0 but repair parts will be more expensive as are oil changes along with fuel and oil filters. Over the course of 100k I don't think the savings would be significant if buying diesel at the pump. Don't know much about WVO powering other than what I've read and I've read enough to know there is not a consensus on the topic. Some claim it works great and others claim its instant death for your motor? If your serious about alternative fuels, brewing your own biodiesel appears to be universally accepted as not being hazardous to your diesel engine. Might be fun to play around with alternative fuel options if the diesel repower works out good.

IIRC, there was a build thread from Europe where they wanted their bed easily removable and didn't want the bed supporting anything. Fabbed 2 pieces of channel across the frame and hung the tank and parking brake assembly from those. Might be a good solution for your rust issues?

Anyone ever relocated the muffler and mounted a 2nd tank on the passenger side opposite the stock location?

Nicely done!

Please expand on "Camaro isolater". Is there a thread?

How about modifying a front MJ bumper to accept the license plate. I've seen this done on a TJ. Cut the front bumper in 2 in the center and add a large piece of angle wide enough to mount a license plate. Also add a couple of lights for the license plate. Looked as if it were a stock item. I'll try to locate the thread. Don't know how to post pictures on this forum so here's the thread. This guy is an artist with this cutom design work. Check out the rear bumper on the back of his retro wrangler about half way down page 1. His threads are extremely long as he provides great detail. In one of his build threads he provided an easy to follow rear bumper build out of a front bumper. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/gauch ... ld-709132/

Thanks Dave. Sounds like that one needs to remain in circulation. Anybody got an '86 partster out there?

Bill - Please e-mail me at tm4644@att.com. Thanks. Tim

I'm working on a project taking the best parts from several vehicles and using a Mercedes diesel for the engine. Due to local emission testing, it would be better to title the vehicle as an '85 or '86 so I'm looking for a pre '87 partster as the 3 other trucks I'm working from so far are all '87 or later. This thing sort of reminds me of the old Johnny Cash song.

Thanks for the input. After a lot of reading it appears the mechanical speedometer cruise is self contained and should work with any engine swap by adapting the throttle linkage. If you have an electronic speedometer, then things get more complicated with an engine swap.

Still searching...anybody know?

'89 comanche with a 4.0 and AX-15. How does the cruise control get its signal? If a different type of engine is swapped in will the cruise still work by only modding the linkage from the servo to the new engine's throttle control?

Thanks for the info and pictures...obviously not an easy bolt on swap to match with the 97+ front end swap. What's the best rear flare option to go with the 97+ front flare?

Is it possible to swap the rear flares / bumper combination from a 97+ xj to a short bed MJ?