Walkenvol

I'm with you on the general work involved, not really different from typical clutch work. From the threads I've read, there are some details concerning the different parts that will interchange. Also, some folks appeared to fit the new external slave onto the existing internal hose. Another option was offered by Advanced Adaptors http://www.advancead...lease-bearings/ per this thread http://nash-offroad....rnal-slave.html to mate the old clutch master to the new external slave. Obviously having a complete donor vehicle to grab everything needed would be the best option, but that's hard to source. So is there anything else needed besides the following; - bellhousing - shift fork - spring clips on each end of the throw out fork - throwout bearing - external style bearing retainer - slave cylinder - hydro line or way to mate ex line to new external slave It would be helpful when sourcing the parts required to have a list of the exact parts needed and all the vehicles and year models containing these parts. I read where the bellhousing for a NV3550 interchanges with the AX-15 which would open up more possibilities. Also read the release arm doesnt matter if its a 4 or 6 cyl, they are the same supposedly confirmed at the dealer as same part number. Also found this as Potential Donors - AX-15e: -1994-1999 XJ 6-242 -1994-1995 YJ 6-242 -1997-1998 TJ 6-242 -1993-1994.5 ZJ 6-242 NV3550: -2000-2001 XJ 6-242 -1999-2005 TJ 6-242 And since AX-15 is a Toyota design then there may be donors there also? Also found this concerning the hydraulics; The newer style m/c, slave cylinder come as a complete unit. Don't buy it from Mopar, I bought mine from the dealer, did my sons a month later, bought it from CarQuest & it was about 1/2 the price. The CarQuest unit came in the same box, oem part for 1/2 the $.

Yes please. Since this is applicable to Cherokees and Wranglers, there has to be a good write up on the net somewhere...I just can't find it?

Is this mod worth it. Gathering parts together for a build. I've already got an ax-15 and bellhousing with the internal clutch slave. Should I make the effort to source external bellhousing and associated parts? If so, why do some reccomend the Dodge Dakota bellhousing over the later model Jeep? I've done a lot of looking, but I've not found a great write up on the mod. Anyone got one book marked?

Don't think you want a 240D for a donor as they are n/a 4 cyl. Get a 300D or 300SD with the turbo 5 cylinder. Some 300's are n/a instead of turbo. Turbo motor is OM617. Got one on an engine stand myself. If I can ever get the stinking home remodel completed then that's next on my list...maybe this summer.

Advise is worth the price paid, but here's mine. Take the free drive train and part it out. Use the cash to pick up the suggested 3.4 liter which bolts right in. Folks have reported very good results with this. Good luck!

thanks for the feedback. Anyone know if the pre-97 door panels will fit the 97+ doors?

My '89 project MJ is about to get cranked up and I'm not sure as to the direction to take concerning the interior. It currently has the maron interior with a maroon cloth bench seat. The only thing currently amise there is a sagging head liner. I'm not really into the maroon color but a complete dash, carpet, seat, door change is probably more than I want to do initially. If the project works out as expected, then I will probably be willing to do more later on including a 97+ door swap. I like the 97+ dash also but I'm not sure the time investment would be worth it to me. Is it possible to fit the '89 interior door units to the +97 doors? Anyway the main question is this, how bad would it look to change interior color in steps such as how would a grey head liner look with a maroon interior? What if the visors were made grey also? Would I be better off just doing the head liner in maroon and then recovering it again later when/if I do the rest of the interior? What's the odds of finding some nice maroon buckets from an XJ or WJ?

Since rust inside the cab is typically due to moisture under the carpet from a windshield or other leak, I wouldn't consider it a deal stopper. Depending on the severity of floor rust, it may not be too hard to repair. Rust in rocker panels, around wheel openings, etc would scare me away if I was planning a nice restoration as that type of cancer is rarely completely discovered and removed. A few years later after all your hard work and $$$ rust bubbles start showing up.

One of my good friends last week won a $2 million lottery scratch off. LMAO when he complained about the tax withholding of slightly over 50%. Don't give up on your lottery hopes just yet! As for me, I'd just like to win a cig smoking dog or have a good college football team but I tend to aim low.

91diesel - what are you thinking? You are doing a very cool repower that tons of folks would love to follow and offer up ideas. That's some bad karma your putting on yourself by not having a build thread. Start snapping digital pictures and posting immediately!

Did you find a good source for the dropped pitman arm as everything I've seen so far is over $100 which seems like a bit much for what your getting? Won't you also have to drop the track bar mount 3" to keep the track bar and drag link in the same plane to avoid "death wobble"? Do you have a build thread anywhere as I'd love to see pictures of the specifics of your build?

That's why you can pick up an OM617 cheap. If the oil has been changed, after it wears out the MB body you can drop it in another vehicle and keep going there. I agree with you in that there are several folks who have resolved their front sump issue, but I don't sense there is an accepted "standard" or "best" way determined yet. I've got a gameplan, but I'm not 100% confident it won't need massaging further one the motor is in the MJ.

I've also read where these were in a very few factory produced models. The size, weight, and power of the 4BT makes me think the stock suspension, transmissions, and axles would also need to be upgraded as the 4bt can easily be tuned upward.

What non-stock repower would ever meet this criteria and why would a diesel repower be any more expensive than a gasoline repower? I parted out a rusted good running mercedes. Kept the motor and cleared enough from the crusher and selling a few parts to cover my purchase price with enough profit to buy the transmission adaptor to the AX-15 which was pretty cheap. So, the motor mated to the transmission is free (excluding my hobby time) and my expenses will be motor mount brackets (will custom make from scrap) and steering clearance of the front oil sump which 91dieseljeep is working through. Available dropped pitman arm and dropped pan hard bar (old cj name) brackets may do the trick with a little oil pan modification but these will set you back apx $300 retail. Hook up the exhaust and boddabing your a custom diesel MJ. (sure sounds simple written like this) Does this strike you as being any more expensive than any other non-stock repower project?

You were sitting still and someone rear ended you going 30-40 mph without slowing down? Unless there was a miracle working you have physical damage also. That sore neck and back you have now will be something more 10, 20, or 30 years down the road. This comes from a guy who both myself and my wife have been in accidents in our younger years and are now beginning to see the real effects as we approach 50. In no way am I encouraging you to fabricate an injury, but I found out the hard way it is very common for the effects of an accident as you described to show up days, weeks, months, or even years later. You were minding your own business and someone else's careless mistake has caused your financial and probable physical loss. You deserve to be fairly compensated and the insurance companies are in the business to pay out as little as they can get away with. The guy and company he was representing pays their premiums to be insured. From my experiences, if I were in your situation I would go to my doctor and honestly document whatever discomforts I'm experiencing. I would get a replacement vehicle to drive and expect the setlement process to take in excess of a year. The insurance company will attempt to low ball and drag it out hoping I will give up and take whatever they decide I should get. Just look at the several earlier comments about how your screwed on any fair settlement as those folks think its impossible to get fair treatment. I would decide what I honestly thought is fair compensation for my combined losses (financial, physical, lost time both involving the accident and spent in the settlement process) to which I am legally and morally entitled to be compensated. I also believe in what goes around comes around so in the end I wouldn't try to get any more than what I was entitled. Once I decided what was fair, I would ask a minimum of 5 times that amount from the insurance company with the plan of negotiating down to what I perceived as fair. They will delay me for at least 1 year then I will have to get an attorney to file suit against the driver, his company, and the insurance company (be sure to now add this expense to my earlier settlement number). If my number is still less than $25,000 and I have properly documented my losses to justify my number, then the insurance company's lawyer will have them settle. Its a pain in the arse, but you have to roll up your sleeves and fight as the insurance company has zero interest in making you whole again. The insurance company has no incentive to settle until its scheduled to go to court. Crappy process but that's the world we live in. Good luck and I mainly wish you good health!

Please share the mods that will produce v-8 power from an MB OM617. I've got one waiting on an engine stand I'm planning on dropping into an MJ and my DD is a MB 190d. Part of my daily net reading is keeping up with MB boards and a few diesel mod boards. You can adjust/remove the ALDA, use improved injectors, and get IP timing adjusted good to help things out but its my understanding the limitation is the IP can't deliver more fuel to increase the HP. Obviously I like the OM617 with an AX-15 as a power plant for an MJ and my expectation is for it to have more useful power than the 2.5 but less than the 4.0 while delivering 25%+ better fuel mileage. I hope you've discovered something I've been missing to increase the power of an OM617 as it would make my intended re-power even more exciting to me. Good luck with your project!

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp Can't recall the link, but I recall a guy using this method on an antique tracktor motor with good results.

Are you interested in a soft or hard cover?

Won't this mess up the body lines? I would want to adjust the strike plate to allign the outside of the door with the cab corner then shim/adjust out the weather stripping to stop any leaks. The way he described it the body of the door is adjusted properly with the body lines of the cab but the top of the door doesn't contour in enough with the shape of the cab. Obviously, pictures would help. Sounds like the door needs to be "adjusted / bent / fitted" to the cab opening. Again, pictures for this type of question are needed.

Haven't done this to a comanche but it has worked for me on other vehicles where the lower portion of the door is lined up and the upper portion sticks out a bit. Measure how far you want the upper back corner of the door to go in closer to the body. Block the door open with something solid between the lower portion of the door and the cab corner. Measure how far the upper back corner of the door is away from the body with it blocked open. Roll the window down. Grasp the door in the upper back corner and push it shut, bending the door just a bit. Have someone else push in on the lower portion of the door while you're pushing in on the upper corner to resist twisting the door against the hinges. Measure again and see if you have "adjusted" it in enough. Repeat until it fits. This has worked for me to move the upper portion of a door almost 1". The window still worked properly. Obviously, use caution as you want the adjustment to occur at the bottom of the window opening without twisting up the upper window opening. Good luck!

I'm interested in the same. Hope someone has already done this.

Others may disagree, but brake booster failure means considerably more force has to be applied to the brake pedal to compress the master cylinder plunger not total loss of braking capability. The least dangerous part of the brake system to me would be messing with the booster. Again, only my opinion and its open for reconsideration.

Can a spacer be used between the cross member and frame to set the "pukey" cross member down to the correct level so it could be used with the AX-15?

I'm still unclear on what happened since I don't have a brake booster out of the vehicle to compare. It appears you move the rubber sleeve with the yellow dot aside to access the metal clip that holds the rod. Is the rubber sleeve with the yellow dot inside of the enclosed metal booster housing or is it on the firewall side of the metal housing? If its on the inside of the metal housing, how is the housing seperated? Did you secure it shut with a rachet strap then bend the metal tabs back then release the pressure with the rachet strap? It appears there is a large spring inside pushing the 2 halves apart. Was it easy to compress the spring when putting the 2 halves back together? Is some form of seal needed between the 2 halves so the vacuum doesn't leak? I've always wondered exactly how those worked. Thanks for sharing!

The speedometer is caliberated by the rotation of the drive shaft (speedometer cable comes out of the side of the transmission). Change the size of the tires or the diff gearing and the vehicle moves different distances on the rotation of the drive shaft.