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any ways to add extra power real cheap


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If it's a renix put a H.O. manifold on (yes it will fit just needs some slight notching)

 

Witch manifold would fit? Intake/Exhaust? Both? And whats the notching... My project would be way easier if the HO exhaust fits.

 

I would like to say this is a good idea, but its not. You should only install a manifold that matches the head. The HO intake is more squared, and the Renix is square, with part of one of the corners filled in (don't ask me why). By putting the full square intake onto the partial square, you could actually loose power. You would be introducing a spot of turbulence that could actually impede the flow of air/fuel mixture.

 

If you kept the Renix on the Renix, you wouldn't have a notch sticking out in the air/fuel stream causing problems.

 

Rob

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In the '50's one of the hottest thing you could do to increase HP was to port and polish the intake and exhaust ports and match the manifolds to the head(s). Then some smart @$$, er enterprising individual discovered that highly polished passages let the fuel form into droplets that would separate from the incoming charge. So now the hot thing to do was to deliberately weld knobs, protrusions to the passages to encourage turbulence. Can't win for losing.

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Ran my MJ thru a carwash. Picked up 8mph on the top end, took 2 seconds of my 0-60 time and gained 4MPG on mileage. Guy at the car wash charged me $40 to rent a loader and clean the bay out.

what the hell a ''clean jeep'' WOW!!!!like a pig in the mud ,jeeps are the same ....

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I'm just wantin to know antidisestablishmentarianism all people have done to add more power to there comanche's for real cheap

4 or 6 ? ok one mod cheap and works well ...please don't flame me on this one ! get some new ford 300 '' rocker arms that knocks the lift in the mid .400's without spring bind or wear...

 

Wait what? I've been working with Jeeps for a few years now and I've never heard this one before. How did you come across this?

ok i have been working for 30 some years on cars and trucks plus a bit of racing too...we found to cheat at times if a configuration of a different part is close and get a gain ,it may be overlooked by the techy ,hey we win ....i had to seal my valve cover one day ,4 years ago and seen the rockers ...said damn i seen this rocker arm config before .....next went to the tool box found one new in the package ...match it up the fulcrum point its about a 1/8'' closer to the pivot .next i took one rocker arm off one put it on turned engine slowly with feeler gauge at the highest point lift over .050 spacing -no binding turned the rest of the way slowly ....win ok all stop got more of them but one trouble was the valve cover ... the plastic one part of the pcv baffle area will hit so grind or cut [easy]so no hit is done --hand turn of engine is needed .... i have 60,000 miles so far plus other mods on her .....working well ...

 

Being that youre not in the US, we would like to know exactly what you are refering to as a Ford 300. We in the US know the Ford 300 as an inline 6 cylinder engine used in Ford trucks. Is that what you are talking about??? If not, more detals would be appreciated! What a Ford 300 is, what years, all that stuff.We need to know more! :wrench:

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I'm just wantin to know antidisestablishmentarianism all people have done to add more power to there comanche's for real cheap

4 or 6 ? ok one mod cheap and works well ...please don't flame me on this one ! get some new ford 300 '' rocker arms that knocks the lift in the mid .400's without spring bind or wear...

 

Wait what? I've been working with Jeeps for a few years now and I've never heard this one before. How did you come across this?

ok i have been working for 30 some years on cars and trucks plus a bit of racing too...we found to cheat at times if a configuration of a different part is close and get a gain ,it may be overlooked by the techy ,hey we win ....i had to seal my valve cover one day ,4 years ago and seen the rockers ...said damn i seen this rocker arm config before .....next went to the tool box found one new in the package ...match it up the fulcrum point its about a 1/8'' closer to the pivot .next i took one rocker arm off one put it on turned engine slowly with feeler gauge at the highest point lift over .050 spacing -no binding turned the rest of the way slowly ....win ok all stop got more of them but one trouble was the valve cover ... the plastic one part of the pcv baffle area will hit so grind or cut [easy]so no hit is done --hand turn of engine is needed .... i have 60,000 miles so far plus other mods on her .....working well ...

 

Being that youre not in the US, we would like to know exactly what you are refering to as a Ford 300. We in the US know the Ford 300 as an inline 6 cylinder engine used in Ford trucks. Is that what you are talking about??? If not, more detals would be appreciated! What a Ford 300 is, what years, all that stuff.We need to know more! :wrench:

 

I am also really wanting to know, if this is correct a set will be finding its place in my MJ very soon

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If it's a renix put a H.O. manifold on (yes it will fit just needs some slight notching)

 

Witch manifold would fit? Intake/Exhaust? Both? And whats the notching... My project would be way easier if the HO exhaust fits.

 

Exhaust, my old one was cracked really bad so I threw one from a H.O. on. All I had to notch was that support brace running across the manifold.

I made sure the gaskets matched up fine ( and they did) I believe it ws a renix gasket but i can't remember. Definately gained power (spun 33's on gravel in 3rd gear doing 60 with a locker and stock gears), my good cherokee won't even do that with 31's and an open diff.

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went to the pnp yesterday and couldn't find a single 300 6cyl ford anywhere.plenty of 302 and 351s but no 300.i'm not buying new rocker arms to try this,so does anybody else want to chance this?

 

That's because like Jeep 4.0s, those Ford 300s never die!

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If it's a renix put a H.O. manifold on (yes it will fit just needs some slight notching)

 

Witch manifold would fit? Intake/Exhaust? Both? And whats the notching... My project would be way easier if the HO exhaust fits.

 

I would like to say this is a good idea, but its not. You should only install a manifold that matches the head. The HO intake is more squared, and the Renix is square, with part of one of the corners filled in (don't ask me why). By putting the full square intake onto the partial square, you could actually loose power. You would be introducing a spot of turbulence that could actually impede the flow of air/fuel mixture.

 

If you kept the Renix on the Renix, you wouldn't have a notch sticking out in the air/fuel stream causing problems.

 

Rob

 

So I'll stick with pacesetter headers

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pacesett ... essories...

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i found a guy that straight bored throttle bodies at 62mm for $80 with the core of your old t-body. that gave me noticable seat of the pants feal, but i had a 2.5" exhaust and new cat. the best most to that motor was my banks header, burly sound, alot more low end and a big price tag.

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