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Receiver hitch


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Since everybody will most likely be putting their own hitches together I could also have them include and cut out pieces to cap off the 2.5" channel if people are interested in that. I am going to make the 2.5" hole square instead of with radii because I've already found that different tubing has different rounded corners so a square hole would be a better universal fit and I can cut the caps out of that hole (a 2" square)

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What's going to be the best way to get an accurate list of interested people? Have everybody PM me, like a few of you have, or start a new page? Cuz after a while it will get hard to sift through these posts for orders... I guess I could just wait til next week when I should know a price and start a page (if I can do that) with all the info and people can post on it...

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What's going to be the best way to get an accurate list of interested people? Have everybody PM me, like a few of you have, or start a new page? Cuz after a while it will get hard to sift through these posts for orders... I guess I could just wait til next week when I should know a price and start a page (if I can do that) with all the info and people can post on it...

 

^^  This. It's all about the $$. 

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Here's the stock hitch (I copied my stock hitch and cut out with my plasma a couple months ago) versus what will be getting cut out soon. The square hole is dropped down 1/2" to better clear my bumper I built. The top plate only has a 2" hole in it cuz Thats what size I thought it was. So Thats why it looks like more than a 1/2" difference. And you can also see the hole that the spring bolt goes through. I will be leaving that part on when they're lasered out but could cut them off if requested.

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If you left the shackle hole in there, I'm sure most of us could decide to, and cut/grind it off ourselves if it wasn't needed/wanted.  That way you only need one template. 

 

If you make a list, or a post for a list of interested parties you could call it Hitch Receiver Plate Deposits if that is allowed.  That way people would know right up front that you're not just making a hypothetical list.  More of an order list with a deposit required for manufacturing.  Like said, thanks for the work.

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To avoid you getting stuck with unused and unpaid for inventory here is what I suggest you do:

 

1) Ask for the money up front.  FULL price.  Once you get XXX number of orders, make your parts.

2) Make a paper tracing of your part, mail it out to everyone who orders.  So they can check for them selves that it fits or doesn't fit.  You don't need that monkey on your back.

3) Do not try to make custom changes on your parts.  Let your customer make his own custom changes.  You don't need that monkey either!

4) Ship completed parts when you have built/sold XXX number.

5) Start a thread in the for sale section.  List who has paid and what XXX number of orders are needed to go forward.

6) Keep the for sale post up to date every week or so.  Edit the first post as you progress.

 

 

Really hope you can bring this product to market.  I don't need it, BUT will buy one when you post the price and where to send the money.

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and i didnt realize until now what the piece of angle on top of the hitch that attaches to the receiver and the cross tube bolts to the underside of the stock bumper. mind blown. ha. (item B in the sketch) 

 

since the plates are made 1/2" longer, that piece won't bolt to the underside of the bumper, if anybody was going to want me to build a whole hitch and do that... 

I had saved the sketch someone made but have no dwg drawing.  Would this help?

.11070629_768429013270397_39643847586548510985218_768429019937063_22238199167306614081_768429016603730_722819172159939161

 

 

OIv7njx.jpg

 

 

 

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so i ran into a problem on my truck today with these plates. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the ones that i cut out at home that match the stock hitch hits my exhaust... and the lower "long" plates i had cut out at work won't even fit on the passenger side because they won't clear my exhaust. 

 

 

 

so I'm throwing out the idea of lowering them all to fit my bumper and leaving them to match the stock hitches. and just modify mine to clear the exhaust. 

 

(that is 4" exhaust and a 5" tip)

 

((the holes line up though, so theres that little win))

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Here's the stock hitch (I copied my stock hitch and cut out with my plasma a couple months ago) versus what will be getting cut out soon. The square hole is dropped down 1/2" to better clear my bumper I built. The top plate only has a 2" hole in it cuz Thats what size I thought it was. So Thats why it looks like more than a 1/2" difference. And you can also see the hole that the spring bolt goes through. I will be leaving that part on when they're lasered out but could cut them off if requested.

 

 

 

There are 4 bolt holes, why are you only using three?

 

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The shackle bolt is a COMPLETE FAIL! I have no idea why you would expect anyone to drop their axle to install a hitch?

 

The hitch should NOT attach to the factory bumper. Too many variations in bumpers now. Hitch designers build for new factory cars/trucks with the expectation that there will be a relative standard for fit......now 25 years later???

 

Home builders will not assemble this hitch on a fixture, the brackets you designed will turn inward about 1/2" or better once heated at the cross tube, the brackets will need to be gusseted, are you supplying the gussets?

 

 

Are you assuming liability? Who sues whom when the homebuilt hitch fails? Just asking? You are assuming a tremendous amount of liability for $30 you will profit per pair.

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I wasn't too high on the shackle bolt idea when it was suggested in the last receiver thread, but the hitch can be installed without having to drop the rear axle by backing the bolts out, installing the hitch and sliding the bolt back through.  On my hitch that I fabbed up, I left the shackle bolt mount out since my stress analysis showed it didn't do much anyway.

 

Liability was the primary reason I never took these to market.  Too many sue happy lawyers out there, especially when it comes to automobile insurance companies.  They have an entire team of lawyers just waiting to pounce.  I'm a regular Joe with my livelihood to lose - wasn't worth the risk.

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I don't get why you would need gussets? Because of those brackets.... and if welded properly you shouldn't get any deflection in that metal. I've made plenty of bumpers and fix-its that required hot thick welds and never had a deflection problem.

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i didnt design these brackets, just going off the drawing. i won't be using the shackle hole and i stated earlier that the buyer could cut it off. 

 

and again, i didnt design it, the factory hitch bolts to the bumper.....

(i weld Otis Elevators for a living) and i would hope that if youre going to build something as important as a hitch that you have some common sense.

 

how is buying these brackets and buying front bumper brackets from a company different? if you don't buy their completed bumper then i would assume you would be liable when building your own bumper (or hitch) 

 

 

 

I wasn't too high on the shackle bolt idea when it was suggested in the last receiver thread, but the hitch can be installed without having to drop the rear axle by backing the bolts out, installing the hitch and sliding the bolt back through.  On my hitch that I fabbed up, I left the shackle bolt mount out since my stress analysis showed it didn't do much anyway.

 

Liability was the primary reason I never took these to market.  Too many sue happy lawyers out there, especially when it comes to automobile insurance companies.  They have an entire team of lawyers just waiting to pounce.  I'm a regular Joe with my livelihood to lose - wasn't worth the risk.

 

and ill just write on the page for when somebody orders that i assume no liability with this builder part.

 

 

I don't get why you would need gussets? Because of those brackets.... and if welded properly you shouldn't get any deflection in that metal. I've made plenty of bumpers and fix-its that required hot thick welds and never had a deflection problem.

exactly. if done right it shouldnt twist or turn or pull or anything. if needed i can make a step by step, in color instruction book so everybody can do it. (still assuming no liability) 

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The factory hitch bolts to the factory bumper.......that is your fourth hole, in theory.

 

The factory bumper has a fourth (or fifth) bolt......one that bolts to the bottom of the frame.

 

 

Why gussets? weld it up and see if you have no deflection. Report back.

 

FURTHER> the factory bumper bracket has, by it's design, a gusset built into it. IOWs it can handle lateral forces. The factory hitch takes advantage of that by being bolted to the bumper. Your hitch without gussets and not being a part of the bumper itself will bend when a force of 5000lbs or grater is applied (laterally or sideways, hitches ain't just push and pull).

You will note on factory hitches the side brackets are "C" shaped......built in gussets........that is with brackets that reach that far out.

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so there are plenty of bolts? yes? no? i think so. for what an MJ can pull, yes. if somebody wants more holes then theyll have to make their own brackets. 

 

the picture i posted^^ of the factory/ uhaul hitch doesnt have gussets on it... and they made thousands like that. in theory, the reciever would probably rip off before the cross tube from the brackets. 

 

what "C" shaped side brackets are you talking about? 

 

what i am making is an exact copy of the hitch in the picture^^ which is what i have had on my truck.... why won't my brackets/ hitch work? its the same as yours except not built as a bumper.... 

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Did you just call the bumper a gusset?

And you will also note that those side plates are near identical to the factory if not improved for there "passthrough" functionality and neither of which use c channels or gussets. Also As far as I know, nobody admitted/denied or recommended not bolting to the bumper. and in technicality a Mj in any form shouldn't be towing 5k+ anyways. While everyone's entitled to an opinion, I believe your argument is foolish.

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No Krusty, it's not the internet, it's you. When you hit the "Quote" button to reply, filter out all the irrelevant posts so people can figure out to whom you are arguing with or replying to. It gets annoying when the quotes number contain 100 different posts. 

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