My Jeep Comanche Question Thread

[1tonMJ]

Hi, I just bought a 1988 Jeep Comanche. I am making this thread so I can ask my dumb questions in here without cluttering up the forum.

 

This is a 1988 Jeep Comanche, Pioneer trim. It is a metallic silvery baby blue. It has the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder 282, the manual AX-15 transmission. It is 2 wheel drive. I believe it has a Dana 35 rear axle. I don't know what the front is, It is just a tube with C-clips at each end. Rear axle has leaf springs. Front axle has shocks and coil springs.

 

So, I have a few problems with my "new" MJ. First off, there is a small pinprick of a hole in the side of the oil pan. Obviously I should change the oil pan, and I do plan on it, but is there anything I can use for a quick fix? Say, 2 weeks? The leak is not too bad, but I would have to put oil in daily.

 

The drivers side door cannot close, due to the lock pin on the cab side of the door being gone. It looks like someone tore it out with a huge pair of pliers. The metal is shorn right off. How would I go about replacing the metal, and putting a door pin there?

 

Does anyone have a schematic or a diagram of the fuse panel and which fuses should be there, and where? Perhaps a list?

 

The odometer is at 199990 miles. How much life can I expect from this truck, as is? 1988-2010= 22 years 199990/22=9091 miles a year, assuming the the truck never sat, which I do not know. I have heard these motors need to be rebuilt from 250,000 to 300,000 miles.

 

Any help is appreciated, and it's great to be here!

[1986Comanche]

It has the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder 282, the manual AX-15 transmission.

 

The 4.0L I-6 is 242 Cubic Inches, not 282. The manual transmission would be a Peugeot BA-10/5, not an AX-15. The AX-15 wasn't used until mid 1989. I hope this info helps.

[fiatslug87]

Welcome to the club. Here is the '88 Electrical manual http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734, fuse panel is on page 6. Hope someone can help with your other questions.

[jimoshel]

Just a 'small pin prick' shouldn't be hard to fix. Regardless the method you choose drain the oil until it is below the hole.

JB Weld or Epoxy. Clean the surface. Use a good degreaser, paint thinner or alcohol. After getting the crud off use a grinder, sander to rough the metal, 120-220 would be a good choice. You don't want to take metal off. Just clean, rough it. Clean the area 1-2 inches around the hole. Apply the JB or epoxy. let set until cured.

Solder. Same prep as above. Use acid core solder.

Braze. Same prep as above.

Weld. Gas torch will work but go easy on the heat. Personally I prefer not to use open flame in, under the engine compartment. It can be done. Just be carefull.

Wire feed welder. One good 2 second zap should do it. I've used all methods described above and they all work, WHEN DONE PROPERLY.

Welcom to the club :wavey:

[akamcbird]

Just a 'small pin prick' shouldn't be hard to fix. Regardless the method you choose drain the oil until it is below the hole.

JB Weld or Epoxy. Clean the surface. Use a good degreaser, paint thinner or alcohol. After getting the crud off use a grinder, sander to rough the metal, 120-220 would be a good choice. You don't want to take metal off. Just clean, rough it. Clean the area 1-2 inches around the hole. Apply the JB or epoxy. let set until cured.

Solder. Same prep as above. Use acid core solder.

Braze. Same prep as above.

Weld. Gas torch will work but go easy on the heat. Personally I prefer not to use open flame in, under the engine compartment. It can be done. Just be carefull.

Wire feed welder. One good 2 second zap should do it. I've used all methods described above and they all work, WHEN DONE PROPERLY.

Welcom to the club :wavey:

way too much work for a couple weeks... short sheetmetal screw in, then out, wrap it wit tef tape and reinstall. vwala

 

lots of pdf manuals at http://greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

[jimoshel]

With my suggested repairs changing pans would be unnecessary.They're permanent repairs. However if he really wants to change pans and is willing to get by with a temporary repair, Then screw it. :D

[1tonMJ]

With my suggested repairs changing pans would be unnecessary.They're permanent repairs. However if he really wants to change pans and is willing to get by with a temporary repair, Then screw it. :D

 

I will change it, I think I can get a new pan for 40 to 50 bucks. Just need to save up for it. But if the fix if permanent, then that gives me more time. From what i can see all I would have to take apart to get it out would be the track bar and the stabilizer bar. It should slide right out.

 

Welcome to the club. Here is the '88 Electrical manual http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734, fuse panel is on page 6. Hope someone can help with your other questions.

 

Thanks this is going to be helpful.

 

It has the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder 282, the manual AX-15 transmission.

 

The 4.0L I-6 is 242 Cubic Inches, not 282. The manual transmission would be a Peugeot BA-10/5, not an AX-15. The AX-15 wasn't used until mid 1989. I hope this info helps.

 

242, gotcha. Is this transmission any good? especially with 200,000 miles? What would be involved with switching trannies? The AX-15 should be a bolt in affair.

[Unglar]

Welcome to the Club! :thumbsup:

 

You need to start a build thread and post ALOT of pics.....

 

Head over to the DIY section and you will find threads for the AX-15 swap and the door hinge fix, as well as lots of other goodies. Also, check your floor pans for rust!

[88pioneer]

Peugeot trannies have a known reputation for being weak, and an AX 15 is not just drop the old one and and bolt the new one in, there is a lot more to it

[El Comanche]

Take a catch pan under the vehicle when you are going to attempt any repair with oil still in the pan. I had that problem on a Toyota Van. The whole bottom of the pan was tissue thin. The screw and screw driver whent right through. What a mess a grinder would have made!

[1tonMJ]

Take a catch pan under the vehicle when you are going to attempt any repair with oil still in the pan. I had that problem on a Toyota Van. The whole bottom of the pan was tissue thin. The screw and screw driver whent right through. What a mess a grinder would have made!

 

Yes I was thinking about it and it would make an awful mess if I didn't drain the oil 1st.

 

Unfortunately I can not build this truck up to a full offroad rig right now, I plan on using it for work, mainly scrap work, painting, and moving stuff. I am going to repair it 1st, put it back into good running order, then build it up. I have some extra parts from a CJ that had, but the CJ turned out to be more than I wanted to do, just to have a drivable vehicle. But from the CJ I got parts that I will be able to use on the MJ. Namely, a Ford 9" rear axle, and a Dana 44 front axle, and the Dana 300 transfer case.

[pilotblake]

Check your widths on the CJ stuff

[1tonMJ]

Check your widths on the CJ stuff

 

The axles are definitly NOT stock on the Jeep, and are sitting in a corner right now, they can be modified however they need to be when the time comes.

[Pete M]

are they fullsize axles? or early bronco axles?

[-600JeepMJ]

:needpics:

 

 

as a group we are a little :nuts: about wanting to see pictures

[1tonMJ]

Well, right, I will take some pictures tomorrow. It just been sitting in the garage, and I haven't done anything to it yet. You haven't missed anything. :typing:

[1tonMJ]

Today I drained the oil, and cleaned up the side of the oil pan to put the JB Weld on. I mixed it and spread it on with a putty knife. I will check it tomorrow, and if it looks ok, I will get some oil and a filter to change the oil.

 

Last night I put on a set of foglights. I drilled a hole on either side of the bumper center with the head lights. I have all the wire run, and all that is left to do is wire up the negative wire, and run power to the switch.

:rotf:

[1tonMJ]

How much oil goes in to the 4.0 engine? I'm thinking 5 quarts, but I didn't exactly measure it when it was pouring out of the drain plug. I would like to put oil back in the engine so I don't forget and start it up. :doh:

[Pete M]

6 quarts

[1tonMJ]

6! Ok thanks. I guess I'm up to buying cases now.

[1tonMJ]

All shined up and ready to go!! I get the tags on Monday, and then I'll take a 100 mile trip to see what else is broken! :brows:

 

[1tonMJ]

I got to drive it around some today, as I got it registered and got plates on it. I think the clutch is shot, the whole truck shakes and jumps when starting in 1st gear. After that though, the tranny and clutch are smooth. The engine runs goods, but kind if sputters before roaring through the RPMs. Does anyone have any tips on smoothing out the idle, and acceleration? Would Seafoam work? I have heard it kind of restores your seals, scrubs out gunk, and gets it running a little bit smoother. Any other engine additives? I took the air cleaner hose off and cleaned out the throttle body and plate.

[kastein]

I'd throw all new plugs, wires, cap and rotor in it, that smoothed out the idle on my XJ amazingly.

[1tonMJ]

Ok, now I am looking for the 12v 5.5 amp circut breaker for the windshield wipers. Autozone doesn't have it, nor does Advance Auto, nor does the dealer. Where the hell do I find one? you would think they would be everywhere.....

[1tonMJ]

Does anyone know the size of the bolts holding the front brake calipers on? I need to puts new brakes on, as the old ones are SHOT. All of my Allen keys do not fit, I will have to buy a new one. Again, what size are these bolts?