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From what i saw the only place to get a hitch is U-haul and its limited in quantity and its $210 :fs1: that's simply way to much money, for $100 i can build a class 7 Receiver hitch . . . Most i'll pay for a class 3 is $120-$125 . . .

 

I may just have to build it if i want it ! jamminz.gif

 

Mike

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My 87 2.5 4 speed hauled in the bed a lawn tractor no problem, but only hauled it about 30 miles on mostly flat 60 mph road. Don't remember for sure, but think I did it before I overhauled the engine at 250,000 miles. But, as said, ya gotta stop, so make sure brakes, etc are good, and since it has been a very short distance driver, check all your radiator and heater hoses, etc cuz they can be ready to go but short distance won't cause them to squirt while long distance pulling can.

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I hauled a 2.5 shortblock, 4wd AX-5/231, 2wd front beam, a bucket of misc. trans pieces, and a spare gas tank in my 2.5. Had an AX-4 at that point, 3.55 gearing. Get-up and go was just fine, stopping wasn't half bad, only noticeable difference in driving was the back liked to sway a lot. MJs don't have a rear sway bar, so watch the turns if you've got anything heavy in the bed.

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Ya had stuffed right full . . . I'm prolly going to skip ATVing this year, I just don't see it happening i have started the revival of the old AMX and so i would prefer to toss the fund-age at that at this time . . . I could really use a hitch for my truck tho . . .

 

I think your truck's sit higher , my truck looks to low for a receiver hitching system, i think i'll have to build my own rear bumper and build the receiver into it . . .

 

Mike

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I don't know what JCR rates their rear bumper to tow:

 

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... y_Code=MJB

 

but (in my completely worthless, nonbinding, unofficial opinion),

it looks atleast beefy as the 500/5000lb U-haul hitch I just got.

 

MJbumperStage2-3.jpg

 

+ JCR is a member here, so you'd be supporting someone who supports us. :cheers:

 

 

(tho you did just miss a great sale on this bumper, it was cheaper than the U-haul hitch a couple weeks ago :eek: )

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Stock MJ rear bumpers suck for towing. Do not buy one of those little receiver hitches that bolt up to tha bottom side of your bumper unless you intend to weld your bumper brackets to tha frame. Without welding, the 4 bolts that hold your bumper on will not keep tha bumper from twisting downward. Especially true if you have a lift and run a drop receiver. The additional leverage of a drop receiver increases the twisting effect.

I tried and you can not tighten those 4 small bolts that hold the bumper on tight enough to stop this from happening. You will likely end up twisting you bumper to a point that tha bolts shear off resulting in your bumper coming off your truck. At that point your bumper and trailer will be on their own and likely headed for the other lane on into tha nearest ditch. Either way it won't be pretty. Welding or a frame mounted hitch is your only safe option.

 

As you can see in these pix, my bumper is twisted downward a little. Since then I've lift it back into place and put a couple of tack welds on tha bumper brackets. I had to be able to pull my trailer and atv so I did what I had to do. I'll build a receiver hutch later but for now this is working OK. I do however keep tha trailer and tongue weight to a minimum and try not to hit tha brakes very hard.

 

 

Did I mention how much I hate tha frickin dent in my bumper??? :( Looks like crap!!!

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:mad: $325 :fs1: . . .

 

:rotfl2: Not happening on my income :thumbsup:

 

Mike

 

You can get a 350/3500lb Black Westin/FEY Bumper (pn63000) for $117 with free shipping here:

http://www.amazon.com/Westin-63000-Fey- ... sim_auto_1

 

but figure $40-50 for the MJ mounting brackets (pn97900):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TUF-97900

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FEY-BUMP ... 20aedeeac7

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Why don't you tow with the 1995 GMC K2500?

 

The MJ (stock) sucks for stopping without any payload never mind additional weight or towing. Unless you do some significant mods, the load leveling prop valve has been known to explode under certain sudden stop conditions. The brake booster is a (crappy) single diaphram set up which has limited power as well.

 

I love my MJ and I have addressed each of these (braking) concerns but if I had (and I do) anything better to tow with like a older 'burb, I would choose that route. Bigger trucks are better tow with anyhow and it is safer for those around you.

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Personally I think everybody is short sheeting their MJ'S. I'm lead footed and hard on machinery. My DD is a '89 SB, 2.5, 5sp, 2WD, 4:10 and 215.60R15.223K on the clock. The only time I do under 80mph is if there's a cop behind me. I constantly pull a 600lb trailer with a 500 gallon water tank on it over a mile of rough cross country to fill stock water tanks. Using a 2" ball mounted on the factory bumper. And yes, it's rust free. I would not hesitate to take off on a 600 mile trip with it. I would check all rubber hoses first tho. I think they are hardy, reliable pieces of machinery, and like any machine must be maintained and PM'ed. Jim

Remember,,,,they ARE Jeep.

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1.Why don't you tow with the 1995 GMC K2500?

 

2.The MJ (stock) sucks for stopping without any payload never mind additional weight or towing. Unless you do some significant mods, the load leveling prop valve has been known to explode under certain sudden stop conditions.

Bigger trucks are better tow with anyhow and it is safer for those around you.

 

1.The 95' K2500 has a 6.5 Diesel so my towing power is the same as or less then that of the MJ's.

The K2500 is also junk ! its broke 22 item in 15 break downs over an 18 month period it is currently in need of another $220 starter and $1,500+ transmission. is a 95' with 139K miles it's toast shame too body is flawless . . . After financing and Repairs i'll have $15,000 into a $3,000 truck that i still owe $5,000 on . . .

 

It's just waiting to be paid off then get a lean release then it'll be recycled :banana: can't wait :clapping: I'm not fixing it again :thumbsup:

 

 

 

2. brake front to back all new brand new, that bias valve unit was bypassed when i bought it and it was never replace when i did the brakes . . . anything offered in a optional "BETTER" product was gotten in the higher grade . . .

 

New calipers, new wheel cylinders, new stainless lines, new master cylinder, New drilled n slotted rotors, with the fancy pad's, New drums, and New shoes. first few miles i busted my lip open cause the brakes grabbed so well, have about 800-1,200lbs in the bed have all winter truck sadly to say the MJ will out stop my K2500 it will out accelerate my K2500 its proven 25X more reliable then my K2500 the Comanche will be around many more years while the K2500 has a 1 way ticket to the Crusher . . .

 

:rant: :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: NEVER ! EVER ! ! NEVER ! ! ! :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: :rant: Buy a GM-Diesel :thumbsup:

 

:hmm: My second failed GM product and it was also my second Diesel GM product :hmm:

 

Mike

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1.Why don't you tow with the 1995 GMC K2500?

 

2.The MJ (stock) sucks for stopping without any payload never mind additional weight or towing. Unless you do some significant mods, the load leveling prop valve has been known to explode under certain sudden stop conditions.

Bigger trucks are better tow with anyhow and it is safer for those around you.

 

1.The 95' K2500 has a 6.5 Diesel so my towing power is the same as or less then that of the MJ's.

The K2500 is also junk ! its broke 22 item in 15 break downs over an 18 month period it is currently in need of another $220 starter and $1,500+ transmission. is a 95' with 139K miles it's toast shame too body is flawless . . . After financing and Repairs i'll have $15,000 into a $3,000 truck that i still owe $5,000 on . . .

 

It's just waiting to be paid off then get a lean release then it'll be recycled :banana: can't wait :clapping: I'm not fixing it again :thumbsup:

 

 

 

2. brake front to back all new brand new, that bias valve unit was bypassed when i bought it and it was never replace when i did the brakes . . . anything offered in a optional "BETTER" product was gotten in the higher grade . . .

 

New calipers, new wheel cylinders, new stainless lines, new master cylinder, New drilled n slotted rotors, with the fancy pad's, New drums, and New shoes. first few miles i busted my lip open cause the brakes grabbed so well, have about 800-1,200lbs in the bed have all winter truck sadly to say the MJ will out stop my K2500 it will out accelerate my K2500 its proven 25X more reliable then my K2500 the Comanche will be around many more years while the K2500 has a 1 way ticket to the Crusher . . .

 

:rant: :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: NEVER ! EVER ! ! NEVER ! ! ! :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: :rant: Buy a GM-Diesel :thumbsup:

 

:hmm: My second failed GM product and it was also my second Diesel GM product :hmm:

 

Mike

 

That K2500 sounds like a lemon :rotf:

 

You do realize AMC = All Makes Compatible and there is a ton of GM parts on your MJ right?

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this was in 2003 before i got my hands on it.thats 1500 pounds of potatoes in the bed there. the leaf spring hangers were dragging on the ground. and thats a 2.5 2wd 4 speed

 

Call me crazy here, and I am surprised no one else asked, but, What the hell were you doing with 1500 Lbs of potatoes? :ack:

 

Rob L.

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1.Why don't you tow with the 1995 GMC K2500?

 

2.The MJ (stock) sucks for stopping without any payload never mind additional weight or towing. Unless you do some significant mods, the load leveling prop valve has been known to explode under certain sudden stop conditions.

Bigger trucks are better tow with anyhow and it is safer for those around you.

 

1.The 95' K2500 has a 6.5 Diesel so my towing power is the same as or less then that of the MJ's.

The K2500 is also junk ! its broke 22 item in 15 break downs over an 18 month period it is currently in need of another $220 starter and $1,500+ transmission. is a 95' with 139K miles it's toast shame too body is flawless . . . After financing and Repairs i'll have $15,000 into a $3,000 truck that i still owe $5,000 on . . .

 

It's just waiting to be paid off then get a lean release then it'll be recycled :banana: can't wait :clapping: I'm not fixing it again :thumbsup:

 

 

 

2. brake front to back all new brand new, that bias valve unit was bypassed when i bought it and it was never replace when i did the brakes . . . anything offered in a optional "BETTER" product was gotten in the higher grade . . .

 

New calipers, new wheel cylinders, new stainless lines, new master cylinder, New drilled n slotted rotors, with the fancy pad's, New drums, and New shoes. first few miles i busted my lip open cause the brakes grabbed so well, have about 800-1,200lbs in the bed have all winter truck sadly to say the MJ will out stop my K2500 it will out accelerate my K2500 its proven 25X more reliable then my K2500 the Comanche will be around many more years while the K2500 has a 1 way ticket to the Crusher . . .

 

:rant: :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: NEVER ! EVER ! ! NEVER ! ! ! :grrrr: soapbox.gif :mad: :rant: Buy a GM-Diesel :thumbsup:

 

:hmm: My second failed GM product and it was also my second Diesel GM product :hmm:

 

Mike

 

That K2500 sounds like a lemon :rotf:

 

You do realize AMC = All Makes Compatible and there is a ton of GM parts on your MJ right?

 

:hmm: I love GM, I hate GM-Diesel's last time i checked my MJ was Gasser or at least its been running perfectly on 93oct fuel :hmm:

 

where ya getting i dislike GM ? . . . I just dislike there diesel's . . . Its not really lemon ask around the 6.2/6.5's are the laughing stock of the diesel world . . .

 

Mike

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I've hauled a Skidoo summit 800 on a 3500 pound with my 4.0 pukegoat. 70 mph no problem. I've hauled a yamaha 500 touring sled in the box of my long box 2wd with the 2.5 5-speed. No problems what so ever. Actually my f-150 at the time would sqaut with the sled in the box and the comanche ran level :dunno:

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