adam518 Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Looking good! I think it's funny you had an issue with the length of Rock Krawler trac bar. I did too, but it was in the opposite direction. I ordered a bar for 4"-6" of lift. In the end I am sitting right at 5.5" of lift. That 5.5" is compared to original ride heigh, not 20 year old worn out coil ride height. Anyway, to center my axle, I had to run the bar to its absolute shortest length. It was ok b/c at that setting it is perfect, but if I only had the 4" minimum that the bar was supposed to fit, it would not have even been close. It seems reasonable to think that their measurements are off a tad in one direction, but my bar being too long and yours being too short seems a bit odd. On top of that, there is a ton of adjustment on the bar, so if they aimed in the middle, it should easily cover an inch or more in either direction. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I had to run my track bar to almost the shortest. I probably could have gotten away with the other, but it worked out OK. I had to measure for shocks, so I conducted the ultimate poseur photo shoot. It may have had a little more flex in it, but I was hitting the limits of space, my lift and my comfort. I took a ride height measurement, a compressed and a flexed measurement, so hopefully that will get me pretty close to what I need. I measured the pinion angle of the rear axle last night and unfortunately, its 6° above the angle of the output shaft on the transfer case. The local stores can't get me shims big enough to make up that difference so I'm going to call around to some shops tomorrow to see what I can find. The front driveshaft didn't fall out while flexing, but there isn't much room left on the slip, so I'm a little concerned. I haven't reconnected the rear shaft yet, but I've got a longer slip yoke somewhere that I can swap to if need be. The front end is sitting about 1.5" higher than the rear. I've got about a half inch that I can take out of the ACOS and I'm sure my new springs will settle some. I can always swap in 4wd leafs n the back or longer shackles to make up the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I doubt you get the lift to work out with a regular driveshaft in the rear. I think its going to be time to start looking into a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and a new CV style driveshaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 throw on those stock 4wd leafs. depending on sag itll make it sit almost even or a tad higher in the rear. also ive never had an issue with either the RK 4.5 bar or the 6.5 bar. i was at 4.5 with the 4.5 bar and now 6.5 with the 6.5 bar. both worked as they should. i could of went with the 4.5 bar on the 6.5 lift but that would of put me right at the end of the heim threads... i don't think so. so i got the new 6.5-8 one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H3RESQ Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I doubt you get the lift to work out with a regular driveshaft in the rear. I think its going to be time to start looking into a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and a new CV style driveshaft... I agree 100%. Time for an sye, and legit driveline. Holy crap your truck looks great!!!!!! Amazing mj you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 I agree 100%. Time for an sye, and legit driveline.Holy crap your truck looks great!!!!!! Amazing mj you have. Crap. I thought I wouldn't have to worry about the SYE. Its only money right...? The good thing is the pinion angle on my rear axle is about 6° above where it should have been for the regular drive shaft, so it probably won't need shimming for a CV drive shaft. I pulled a string from the axle yoke and as best I can tell it hits the transfer case at the base of the output shaft. 4x4 Group Buy has a 242 SYE and CV shaft for $450 after a $400 core charge. Tom Woods isn't open on the weekend, so I'll have to call on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I recommend the Advance Adapters Kit - I am VERY happy with the quality of the product and the miles on and off road that it has given me... $199 is a good deal - I paid somewhere around $250 5 years ago for mine... http://www.advanceadapters.com/products ... -yoke-kit/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 my 8.25 SOA lift works just fine with a stock rear shaft. havent had one issue with it. the front is about maxed out though like you said earlier. id look at it from a cost point of view. will the SYE and new shaft cost more then just having new perches welded in the correct spot or vice versa. i think we all know the answer but its your call on what you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 I may end up needing the SYE and CV drive shaft, but shims are cheap, so I'm going to try them first. I spoke with Rob at 4wd today and got my shocks ordered. They are Rubicon Express branded Bilstein 5100 series shocks. Apparently RE has swapped to Bilsteins and they are slightly cheaper because they don't say Bilstein on them. I've still got a little work with the brakes to finish up; I just ran out of time. I picked up a hitch from another member on the forums. I'm not sure why the picture is so hazy. The finish on it was horrible. The metal is pretty pitted in a lot of places. I stripped what I could and gave it a coat of paint. I'll snap another picture when I get around to installing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 while you have the tcase apart for the sye throw in a terra 2lo. only taken mine out a few times since i installed it but it added to the fun factor. i put in a advanced adapters sye because the JB conversion was on back order. everybody seems happy with the AA kit, not that its nessary but JB has a shorter output yoke and it looks like they were a bit more high quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 All of these conversions say 231 but I have a 242. Do they work just the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 IIRC the only option (5 years ago) for an SYE on the 242 was a Hack'n'Tap, where you grind off the stock shaft and tap the center of the shaft to install the supplied yoke :ack: I never dug deeper into it though because I have the 231... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 IIRC the only option (5 years ago) for an SYE on the 242 was a Hack'n'Tap, where you grind off the stock shaft and tap the center of the shaft to install the supplied yoke :ack: I never dug deeper into it though because I have the 231... yep...only option is the Hack N Tap for the 242. You'll read that a sye with complete shaft is stronger than a Hack N Tap, but I wouldn't worry about it, especially with moderate size tires. I have used both a Hack N Tap and a complete sye with shaft replacement and both have worked fine. For what it's worth, I find it easier to do the Hack N Tap. It took less than a hour in my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockMJ Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 IIRC the only option (5 years ago) for an SYE on the 242 was a Hack'n'Tap, where you grind off the stock shaft and tap the center of the shaft to install the supplied yoke :ack: I never dug deeper into it though because I have the 231... yep...only option is the Hack N Tap for the 242. You'll read that a sye with complete shaft is stronger than a Hack N Tap, but I wouldn't worry about it, especially with moderate size tires. I have used both a Hack N Tap and a complete sye with shaft replacement and both have worked fine. For what it's worth, I find it easier to do the Hack N Tap. It took less than a hour in my driveway. Agreed. When I did mine on a ZJ I had it was easier than the old JB Conversions one I used. No time spent splitting the case or fiddling with the hardware. Just take your time measuring and if you can have a drill with a level on it, use it. I have not looked into the options for the 242 in a while but I came across the same thing as most. Hack and tap or swap the case. There are tutorials on youtube I just looked up for reference. Measure six times, cut once! RockMJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepjerry Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 What an awesome truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COFFMAN Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 Check out NOVAK SYE extra short version, billet aluminum housing. i,v got one cuming looks to be great quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam518 Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 If you go Hack N Tap you don't necessarily have to worry about a level... I cut the shaft with a cut offf wheel. To guarantee a straight cut, I shifted into 2wd and low gear (drive shaft removed of course) and let it idle while I cut. The shaft spinning kept if from getting off and created a swirl pattern that helped me locate center prefectly. Letting the shaft spin after you cut it will help you create a concave on the end of the shaft as well. It is better for the shaft to concave in rather than out. When I drilled, I also let the shaft spin (if I remember correctly, it make have beeen in reverse, but I could be wrong about that). The spinning shaft will not allow the drill bit go into the shaft off-center. It was no big deal. Just go slow,lube your bit and give it time to cool. Take your time when tapping and you are good to go. As stated earlier, it took much less time than dropping the unit, splitting the case, yadda yadda yadda. For 33's or even 35's, I would not hesitate to go the Hack N Tap route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 I'm just working on getting it drivable at the moment. I had to re-flare two of the brake lines and the rental tool from the parts store did not work very well. Every time I tried to tighten down the press to make the flare it would just push the tube right out of the clamp no matter how tight I made it. The rear wasn't too bad because I could remove the whole line from the junction, but the front line was a pill to work on in the fender well. With a little bit of heat, I made some pretty ugly flares so I'm just hoping they'll hold OK. I still need to install the JKS sway bar disconnects, replace the brake shoes on the rear passenger side, shim the axle and install shocks. I leveled the front with the ACOS, but I'm still higher in the front and I don't have any more adjustment. I guess I'll just have to get a heavier bumper at some point (unless someone just has some stock 4wd leafs laying around). I will get a professional alignment once I'm done but I want to get it pretty close myself before I drive it at all. What is the typical thought on centering the front axle in the wheel wells? If its centered at ride height, then under compression or articulation, it obviously won't be any more. I haven't measured yet, but I think I'm slightly offset to the rear at ride height. I have plenty of room to adjust with the Clayton kit; I just want it to be correct. I haven't driven it in just a week and a half and even though I have my XJ its just not the same. I can't wait to get the MJ back on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 How much higher is it in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 How much higher is it in the front? I'll have to measure again, but I believe its about 1.0-1.25" I have 3" springs I could install instead, but I'm not sure they'll be tall enough. 3.5" springs probably would have been sufficient with the ACOS, but my RE 4.5" springs were less than $75 shipped brand new so its hard to argue with that. Plus they may settle some. What is the difference in height between the 2wd and 4wd leafs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Old lift kit and wheels and tires are for sale. Click below. Lift Kit: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=36653 Wheels and Tires: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=36652 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockdrummer93 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 now we need to get some wheelin pics on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 now we need to get some wheelin pics on here First we need to get some finished drivable pictures on here (wheeling pictures to follow). My shocks came in yesterday, but I didn't have time to install them because I was messing with the brakes. I bleed the system, but the pedal still feels a little spongy. The rear brakes need adjusting pretty badly and then the emergency brakes needs adjustment. I had forgotten that I used my original Dana 35 e-brake cables on the other 8.25. The 8.25 cables are really long. I have my control arms left and right set at the same lengths, but my wheel base is about 3/4" longer on the driver side. I'm not really sure how that is possible, but I'm going to pull out the passenger side a bit to compensate and then hope the alignment shop can dial it in. The shims for the rear axle came Monday, so I'm going to try and get those installed tonight. I hope to have the truck driving this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockdrummer93 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 We'll need to hit up Uwharrie manche style when I get mine to a drivable state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rymanrph Posted August 2, 2012 Author Share Posted August 2, 2012 Somehow this post from last Saturday didn't make it past a draft. Any how, I got the hitch installed. It wasn't the easy thing to install by myself. Once I was done I realized that I have a big gap on the passenger side and hardly one at all on the driver's side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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