CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 ge OK guys, I'm looking for pics and ideas for some bed side protection. I am NO fan of exo cages and feel there is a fine line between cool and gaudy. Exos are way cool while off road on a all out rig. but scream mall crawler when on the road. ESP when on a otherwise clean rig like my MJ. My club has a couple pieces of property for wheeling. its New England and its in the woods. Ad to that mix lockers and the off camber the rolling hills found here and you end up with tree contact. Last week end we had a trail run on one of these pieces and try as I may, i ended up in the trees all too often. Most times I was able to winch or get pulled off with mere scratches. But one time I dented the drivers door, front fender right in front of the windshield pillar and the tail, just above the tail lites. Image Not FoundImage Not Found Let the ideas and pics flow. I intend this to be hashed out thoroughly before the build begins, sometime after the first of the year. For the spring runs to follow. My ideas so far... Some 2-3" angle iron for the bed side tops. The horizontal piece on top of the bed side while the vertical on the inside of the bed. Attach to that5-6, 3" wide 1/4" thick "stand-offs" with some 1 1/4" poop pipe welded to that. So it sits approx 2" off the bed side just below the top of the bed side. Then a 90 degree bend wrapping around the back terminating in another 1/4" thick piece that gets bolted in to the latch for the tail gate. Up front I plan another 2-3" wide piece of 1/4" stock running between the bed and the cab welding to both sides and bolting to the bed. Also considering another full length piece of 3/16" thick, 3" wide flat stock ON the bed side and welded to the inside of the pipe running the length of the bed. Finally two removable cross pieces that will get installed when wheeling and out for DD purposes. Know that I am no good at any of the drawing or cad programs to show pics of what I am describing. What I would like to see and hear is your ideas or pics of parts of exo cages you liked or where impressed with. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Here is a couple sketches I made showing my ideas so far... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilotblake Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 This picture is horribly small and I can't find anymore pictures of it, but I like the idea of protecting the cab and the bed more so than the front end. The front end stuff is easier to come by, plus I don't think it will look as bulky. My next project is rock sliders, so the plan is to have them stick out enough to tie the cage into and also then build my rear bumper to wrap around and tie the back of the cage in. http://www.jeep-comanche.com/images/jeep-comanche4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 This picture is horribly small and I can't find anymore pictures of it, but I like the idea of protecting the cab and the bed more so than the front end. The front end stuff is easier to come by, plus I don't think it will look as bulky. My next project is rock sliders, so the plan is to have them stick out enough to ty the cage into and also then build my rear bumper to wrap around and ty the back of the cage in. http://www.jeep-comanche.com/images/jeep-comanche4.jpg THX for the pic, I'll size it up for better viewing. My own rock sliders seem to work well, (home built, CK my build) even so, I will also be extending them a bit. Maybe just under the doors as a pseudo step of sorts... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Wasnt your bed full of rust holes? Why don't you just get a new bed, and start over. Maybe you could bob it while you are switching beds. The longbed has a ton of rear overhang which is part of your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Wasn'T your bed full of rust holes? Why don't you just get a new bed, and start over. Maybe you could bob it while you are switching beds. The long bed has a ton of rear overhang which is part of your problem. It had some pretty bad rust around and over the wheel wells. That's now gone. I also had some on the sides under the diamond plate. that was cut out before the diamond plate went in. there is a bit inside the bed, in the very back. But this has been stripped, cleaned and repainted. In the last 3-4 years the holes are small and have done nothing. I thought about bobbing, but that's not where I want to go with this rig. Its a long bed and its staying that way. That's why I built the rear protection. I went thru a hole where a good deal of the weight was off the rear tires, because the bumper was on the ground before we got thru the hole!! The protection worked perfectly and slid right over with no hangups!! Other than the tight turns, the length isn't really a huge negative. In our woods wheeling here, everything seems to be off camber. Add some rain like its done here all month and lockers. As soon as the tires spin the vehicle heads down hill into the trees on the side of the trail. So just like rock rails protect our rockers, this rail will protect my bed lines. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 i feel your pain CW, my ONLY body damage was caused by an offcamber slide into trees where i could not get off them. :cry: have you thought off some 4-5" wide rock rails behind the wheel openings? that wouldn't help for right above the arch though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 what about some sort of aluminum angle iron along the edge of the bed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 What about a slider that runs along the top of the bedside. I have wanted to do this to my truck for awhile now. One of the guys in the club I run with has this setup and it seems to do well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 What about a slider that runs along the top of the bedside. I have wanted to do this to my truck for awhile now. One of the guys in the club I run with has this setup and it seems to do well. This is pretty much what I am thinking. Only dropping it just below the bed line as the bed is at its widest point there. Can you get me pics of his setup? I'd love to see exactly what others have done. Here is a pic of a hand drawn pic, its a work in progress: Its a view from front to back, (Or back to front :roll: ) If you can follow it. I added a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" steel running lengthwise under the tube. With additional standoffs welding to it. (Not welding to the bed box anywhere) What it doesn't show is the 90 degree bend at the back that wraps to the rear above the tail lites or the cross piece running between the cab and bed. Both will stop or resist deflection from heavy contact. While at the same time spreading out the forces over a larger area to further resist damage to any one point. Again, removal is something I want to incorporate. For painting and repair. The ideas are GREAT keep them coming!!! :bowdown: :popcorn: :popcorn: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 I'd rather just see some flat plate armor bent to fit the upper bed corners, and maybe the rails. Kinda like those goofy diamond plate aluminum 'rail' protectors, but out of something that would actually protect the bed (and isn't shiny :D ). If you look at these old pics, I used something similar to support the tire/gas can/cooler rack on the old MJ: (first pic they run the full length of the rails, second pic I had cut them) It was too late for bed protection for that MJ, so I didn't build the ft/rear corners (I eventually cut it down to make the rack easier to remove & store), but it could easily have been done. The ends themselves would probably take a few pieces welded together to get the angles right, but I think it could be done nicely. I used diamond plate for these rails, but would probably use flat plate if I did it again. If you made top rails like this (also maybe wrap them around a little further down the side), flat plate corner guards & rock rails, and your bed would be pretty well protected. Personally I'm more concerned about the A pillars on the cab. I'd like to wrap them with plate, or tubing running from the roof to the fender. I'd also like it clean, so would probably want to cut a hole in the fender, and have them go through it @ the A-pillar, instead of continuing to the front bumper, or rock rail. On the roof side, I'm like 50/50 on building a short/clean looking rack, and tying them into that, or just cap them off at the roof line somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Good stuff!! Lots to think on for sure... I have been surfing looking for pics and ideas for this project. Today was my first chance to put steel in hand and see what could work on the MJ. I was going to mock up a couple feet based on my drawings. I saw some flaws right off. I fear the issue will be strength. I cannot make it just like I have in my drawings..... I have a guy in my club who has done something very similar thing to his SR5. I know about it, but haven't been able to get good pics or get him to respond to my PM's... :wall: Any how, I came up with something else. Same bar, moved down just a bit. If you envision a profile of the bed side. There is the top, then a 1"-1.125" wide piece followed by a 4" wide piece almost vertical. Then a narrow 1/2" wide strip jutting out followed by the actual side of the bed. First off, I eliminated the angle iron at the bed top. Then scaled down the rail diameter to 1" pipe. Now I've added a wider 3" X 3/16" thick flat stock. Run this centered on the 4" wide part of the bed, full length, front to back wrapping around and ending at the tail gate. Then using 1" tall pieces of round 1" stock as stand offs. Now weld these to that 3/16 X 3" flat stock, in say 5 places down the length of the bed. Birds mouth them to accept the actual bed rail. This will run from just behind the doors at the cab, back to the tail lites finishing with a 90 degree bend around the back. I think I will make a mock up of one side from plastic, just to be sure its what I like. Using the same ideas, I may also have something in store for the front... :brows: :brows: :brows: But I gotta leave something for a surprise... More to comer!1 PLEASE keep the comments and ideas coming!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Let the bending begin... :brows: :brows: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86FUBAR Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 NICE CW!!! u should have goten the one with the return springs , or atleast make ur own . here is an old thread on pipe bending as a refresher viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17206&hilit=pipe+bending Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-man930 Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 subscribing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 It says "pipe bender". Does it have the correct molds for tubing? They are NOT the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 It says "pipe bender". Does it have the correct molds for tubing? They are NOT the same thing. Not specfically, Its expressly designed for poop pipe! :yes: :D :brows: But thats fine with me, for what I want its just fine. I'm not protecting life and limb, (thats what my 45 is for :shake: ) I'm protecting sheetmetal. The key is having the material fit the mandrels correctly. Today I polished the 1" mandrel. its nice and smooth and fits my pipe almost perfectly. Next week I'll pick up some material and start practicing bending it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 CW! I saw a Toyota the other day and immediately thought of you. ;) He had some homemade bed-sliders that were super simple and functional. I didn't like the idea of "bed sliders" but once I saw these things, I just might have to make some myself. I hope this helps you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I like those bed sliders. I'm going to have to make some. I would want to run some rubber or something underneath the steel to protect against water getting in between there and rusting, or is that not a concern with a setup like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Hey CW., don't know if this will help , but there is a shop here in the Springs that makes all kinds of armor. I don't have a link but, its ARMOROLOGY.com . You may have seen them but, they have allot of great ideas. Everything they make is way BEEFY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 CW! I saw a Toyota the other day and immediately thought of you. ;) He had some homemade bed-sliders that were super simple and functional. I didn't like the idea of "bed sliders" but once I saw these things, I just might have to make some myself. I hope this helps you. Darren, this is EXACTLY what I am thinking!!! Mine will extend out about 1-2" farther, but thats it!! THANKS for the pix!!! DJM/78, I haven't herd of them. i WILL check it out!! Thx... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Darren, this is EXACTLY what I am thinking!!! Mine will extend out about 1-2" farther, but thats it!! THANKS for the pix!!! CW Anytime, kid. :wavey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 Darren, this is EXACTLY what I am thinking!!! Mine will extend out about 1-2" farther, but that's it!! THANKS for the pix!!! CW Anytime, kid. :wavy: I like the compliment, Don't get me wrong. I just done generally receive them from people 20 years my junior... :rotf: :dunno: :shake: If I had had any curtain climbers, they would likely be about your age by now... :shake: :shake: AND better behaved!! :doh: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I like the compliment, Don't get me wrong. I just done generally receive them from people 20 years my junior... :rotf: :dunno: :shake: If I had had any curtain climbers, they would likely be about your age by now... :shake: :shake: AND better behaved!! :doh: CW :rotfl2: Sorry CW I call everyone kid, usually without thinking about age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I like the compliment, Don't get me wrong. I just done generally receive them from people 20 years my junior... :rotf: :dunno: :shake: If I had had any curtain climbers, they would likely be about your age by now... :shake: :shake: AND better behaved!! :doh: CW :rotfl2: Sorry CW I call everyone kid, usually without thinking about age. Its all good, :D :cheers: I have found myself doing it as well... Peace and Merry Christmas!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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