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Adjustable MJ Load Sensing Valve


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ok... some real solid info!

 

Finally found the section of the FSM that covers this. For those with a Jeep Bible, it's at page 5-52 (at least in the 91 full-line manual) of the Engine Chassis & Body volume - titled "BRAKELINES AND VALVES".

 

Routing -

The line at the front of the proportioning valve block goes to the load sensing valve (specifically, the port on the side of it.)

The line on the bottom of the proportioning valve block toward the front end goes to the "tee" fitting I observed on mine.

The "tee" fitting is connected to the top port on the load sensing valve and the rubber brake line to the rear axle.

 

Not that it matters functionally, but if you're as anal as I am about routing and making things perfect while doing a restoration, the side port on the "tee" goes to the rubber brake line.

 

Haven't verified whether mine is set up right or has the lines to the rear swapped yet, but at least I know where to start now.

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  • 2 years later...
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I was checking out the post and was wondering if the rod and rod end need to be LH threads? If so, why?

 

No, it does not have to be LH, you can use all RH threads too. LH threaded stuff is just easier to come by.

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  • 7 months later...

I just lifted my Comanche, and the Zone instructions call for flipping that bracket on the axle. Well of course I snapped the ball fitting. I drilled out the hole a bit and used a concrete stud, with a nut threaded on and the plate sandwiched between a lock nut. It was a little bigger than the ball stud, but it seems to fit on there OK, and when it breaks, I'll do something like Hornbrod's link.

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  • 1 month later...

any way to make the prop valv ework again? mine has been bypassed because the po couldnt get it to bleed correctly when he did the brakes and I want to hook it back up before I lower the truck.

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  • 3 months later...

I tried to post this earlier yet crashed my computer. If it shows up twice please forgive.

 

I got a similar valve off ebay and it was for a 2500/3500 Ram Diesel mid 90's vintage and up. So, Dodge must still be making some of these and there are more current part numbers. I just don't know how to find.

 

Also, tried to get some of the above parts at my ACE Hardware. However, being in-town they have more things like fans and bbq sets than real parts. Kind of a girlie ACE Hardware.

 

Anyway, I ordered from JEGS a carb linkage and a ball set to fit. It's just about 7in socket to socket but NOT adjustable more than about half an inch. So far so good yet I am in the middle of a brake job anyway so haven't gotter done yet to roadtest.

 

This was pretty easy yet light duty. First road debris and it will be gone. Will put the above parts on my shopping list for when I find a real hardware store out in the boonies. Getting harder and harder to find.

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ACE, at least the one in my neighborhood, has been super helpful for nuts and bolts--especially since I have an addiction to replacing everything I can with stainless steel. However, most of their parts for plumbing and electrical are now made in China. As you know China puts the C in Cuality. Anyway, I don't mind paying 50% more at ACE IF they weren't selling the same crap at the big box stores. Sorry for the rant yet my family hardware store closed down on its 100 year anniversary as there seems no surviving USofA's K-Mart philosophy.

 

Thanks for the heads up on that part vendor as my carb linkage is way too light duty for a brake part. Hence why I didn't post it as a solution--just something to avoid yet it seemed like a good idea at the time.

 

Happy Motoring!

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  • 9 months later...

I went to 4 different stores in town today and no one carries those end pieces (rod ends, studs). All I could find was 1/4"-20 threaded rod & nuts. F'in small cities...

 

Anywho, I thought I'd ask. Is anyone here interested in making and shipping me one of these? My OEM rod is way too long and I'd rather just pop on something like this so if I make changes down the road it will work right.

 

Lemme know. :wrench:

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I'm in Canada, they do not have any way to buy online. I'll keep looking in the meantime...

 

If you can wait I'm going to make one for my dd .. If I order double the parts I can send you just the parts + shipping or make you one ? Let me know . I'm still held up with my back so it will be a bit...

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I found some 1/4" tie ends but the thread on them is 28 and now I can't find 28 threaded rod. Maybe I'll come across something along the way.

 

Stroker, how long do you think it might take to do that? More or less than a month?

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  • 1 month later...

Hey maybe it's too late but I thought of you when I made this with a $20 trip to ACE:

(it's angled up because when I took this pic it had 500lbs of junk in the bed)

 

 

 

I used some 1/4"-20 all-thread and threaded eyes with some random plumbing bushings at the bolts that fit snugly.

My bolt of choice for most things is 8mm x 1.25. I enlarged the axle bracket hole and threaded it to accept the new hardware size. In the future, I'd ideally rebuild this using the proper spherical ends, but this works well enough for now.

I've got about 1/2" of adjustability to control brake bias.
Hope this helps!

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I have the 28 all thread , rod ends , jam nuts, nylon lock nuts . Let me know if you want me to ship it all or some to you .

 

 

I bought a cheap version of this item locally, I just might be able to rig it into working.... If it doesn't work I'll let you know.

 

31KSMXWavkL._AA160_.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

This is a great fix.  Didn't know how badly my rear brakes were out of adjustment until I did this.  Not only did it need adjustment, when I crawled underneath I found that at some time when it was up in the air, the whole mechanism slipped downward and wasn't working at all.  Half hour to put things together and two trips to an empty mall parking lot and I can actually lock up my brakes if I need to.  By the way, local Ace and Lowes did not have the 1/4"x28 ball joint assemblies, so I went to M6 x 1.0, at Ace, and they also had the threaded rod.  Thanks!

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  • 3 months later...

Not sure how much shipping is from this place, or where else these can be found. But I found a site that offers different length rods that have both LH and RH threads at the end. Which would mean easier adjustability, 

Instead of removing one or both ends on the apparatus, all you would need to do is loosen a couple jam nuts, adjust, and tighten jam nuts, Or maybe even a turnbluckle that has RH/LH threads. 

 

Here's link I found. Going to search amazon and other places. If I get a chance to get to my local Fastenal I will check there as well. 

 

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=79

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