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:needpics:




They're Orange! The needles are Orange!
This is the cluster that will go in the truck with darn close to accurate mileage, 203k.


:brows:

 

Saved informative post quote!

 

Change out the XJ connectors for weather proof ones.

Extend the MJ wiring to reach the XJ connectors.

Make the top bulb on the MJ the brake lights.

Make the lower bulbs the turn signals.

Wire the two parking lights together the keep both top and bottom bulbs lit.

This will mimic the way the XJ lights are wired.

I did this to Onyx and it was easy to do. I do not think you can get the stock XJ wiring to just plug into the MJ wiring and not have the lights fight each other.

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  • 2 months later...

I finally made it to the body shop today.

 

Picture of the truck

 

Floor pans are welded in with frame plate and braces

 

97+ firewall modifications and brackets

 

New 3/16" battery mount in the works

 

Rockers and cab corners going in

 

Crap.....

 

While talking about my truck, and the two other MJs in the shop, my body shop guy continued to express the poor fit of the C2C floor pans and rockers. The MJ rockers are tapered and has a totally different rear floor shape. He indicated the only positive of the C2C parts was the metal quality. We also discussed water proofing the cab at length. When it is done, there should be no water problems.

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  • 2 months later...

Gosh, since the last post I haven't even talked to the body shop. I've been busy moving into a new house and starting a new job. I should probably go harass the shop.

 

As for color, I must take you back to page 1:

The bed is 90% done though it might need blended once the cab is painted.

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Gosh, since the last post I haven't even talked to the body shop. I've been busy moving into a new house and starting a new job. I should probably go harass the shop.

 

As for color, I must take you back to page 1:

The bed is 90% done though it might need blended once the cab is painted.

:oops: Yep that brings back menorys, best of luck with the new house and job.

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In the calculator it says the cam is a 68-231-4 and below it you have written

"Camshaft: COMP Cam 68-231-4" and at the top of the list it says "68-321-4"

Just wondering if thats a typo?

Seems like a good plan for a solid and strong motor but how much are you expected to gain over stock?

 

Not sure the cam number I put in the race jeep, but it was the comp cams extreme 4x4 cam, with the head work , long tune header and new valve springs the change was unfreeginbaleivable!!

 

comanche.gif

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  • 1 month later...

Tonight I stopped by the body shop to drop off the doors, cowl, fenders and header panel.

 

A little bit of paint has been applied to the truck, and let me tell you... I absolutely love it.

 

Engine bay: (notice the 97+ XJ hole alignment and shapes)

I am going to have to polish the 4.0 before it goes in that clean bay.

 

Interior:

 

Of course the poor lighting in the shop and my camera phone make the red look more pinkish.

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Thanks for the complement. Although I can't really take credit for the work.

 

Any idea when it will be done?

:rotfl2:

I honestly don't know. I figure once I do get it back from the paint shop, I should be able to get the truck put together and running in a couple of months. At this point I am going to forgo the engine build. The whole buying a house thing kind of chewed up my budget for that.

 

I still cannot find a grey 40/20/40 split bench Dakota seat for the truck and it is driving me crazy!

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Ya gota be happey with that :clapping:

You will enjoy the day ya start fitten her out :thumbsup:

Heck yeah. I can't wait to start shoving everything in.

 

Man that looks great! I bet you were giddy as a school girl seeing fresh color on it. I know I would be!

You must have been hiding out behind the 86 MJ he has in the shop to know those kind of details! :banana:

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Maybe I missed it but can you go into more detail on what you did to remove the striping on the truck?

I don't think I ever mentioned it. I used a heat gun and simply peeled them off. Then I cleaned up any glue residue with rubbing alcohol then used cleaner wax over the whole truck.

 

subscribed. awesome resto/coversion man jamminz.gif

Thanks! Hopefully I will have an update soon.

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  • 2 months later...

Nice write-up and the truck is looking great!... Any new updates?

 

I know this is a bit old, but what size compressor were you using with the HF abrasive blaster? What PSI were you running it at? I was looking at purchasing the same one, but I'm not sure I have enough compressor... My CFMs are at the lower end of what the blasters manual calls for.

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So the compressor kept up with the blaster alright? How often was it running to recharge?... I've got a 20 gal. rated at 4.3 CFM at 90 PSI (so similar to yours) and was alittle worried it wouldn't be enough for the blaster... But if you did the whole frame with yours and the compressor wasn't overwhelmed by the demand of the balster, I think I might be going out and purchasing that same blaster... Did you get the moisture collector at HF too?

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The compressor ran non stop. However once the compressor was completely out of air, the hopper was pretty much empty and ready for a refill. It was not the most efficient process, but it was effective. My least favorite part of the blaster was the nozzle. It is basically an on/off valve with a reducer on the end. It worked, but was cumbersome. I have since picked up a deadman nozzle and look forward to giving it a shot.

 

I picked up the moisture trap at my local hardware store. I was amazed at how much water the trap caught even in the cold winter.

 

I highly recommend going to Walmart to pick up a kitchen strainer that will fit in the funnel for the blaster. This will allow you to reuse media and reduce down time due to a clogged nozzle. I bought about 6 bags of the Black Diamond media and used all of them several times. Since I was attempting to collect the used stuff on a tarp, I still have 4 bags.

 

It was very frustrating to start using the blaster. I assumed it was a simple, flip the valves on and go to town. Nope. You must feather the hopper valve and air pressure valve until it media flows how you want it to.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Brown Santa left this truck a few presents on the front porch today.

 

What we have is round #2 replacement rocker panel and the JCR Offroad DIY MJ bumper:

 

The rocker came Auto Parts Network under the direction of my body shop guy. It is a Sherman part. He believes we will have more success with this rocker than the C2C he was trying to make look right. I will say that this Sherman rocker looks to have more detailed bends and notches. Hopefully I can visit with him on Friday about the plan of attack.

 

Then for the second box of joy, the Black Friday sale DIY MJ rear bumper. Here are a few of my first impressions:

- The box was heavy!

- JCR sticker included

- After reviewing the build instructions online (no print version sent) and studying the parts, I feel confident the build will be straight forward

- The $20 receiver hitch is very pathetic. I would skip it next time.

- I am a little disappointed the D-ring slots were cut into the bumper face as I do not plan on using them. Won't be to hard to fill the holes.

 

When this bumper became available, I knew I had to have it for this truck. While I believe a stock bumper looks best on the rear end of an MJ, I had to face the fact that they are very weak. Weak is not what I want protecting the rust free bed of my truck ;)

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