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Rattle Can Paint Jobs


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As far as the paint goes I pretty much did everything "WRONG" to get the best results. I've done my fair share of paint jobs on other vehicles, but this is the 1st time I did it via rattlecan. Here are some tips:

 

1) Cover any rust/bare metal with primer.

 

2) Do not paint w/primer over everything. The factory paint job holds just fine.

 

3) Sand it down smooth with a mid-grade sandpaper. Sand everything that you can to scuff it up as the paint will adhere better.

 

4) Try to do it in 1 coat. I got better results doing 1 thick coat than I did trying to do 2-3 coats. It takes some time to do it with 1 coat, but the end results look a TON better and it does not look like it's been rattle canned.

 

5) Do it in sections. It helps since your doing it in 1 coat to not try to do it all at once. Pic a panel and paint it.

 

6) Use a non-gloss and non-flat paint. I used a Satin and it turned out very well. Flat is hard to get a good finish with, and gloss shows to much error and makes it look like a rattle can job. Once again use a Satin for best results.

 

7) DO NOT WET-SAND AN ALREADY PAINTED PANEL. It looks like crap if you do.

 

8) DO NOT USE A CLEAR COAT.

 

Like I said, if you know anything about painting you'll tell me I'm crazy. This is based on my experience and anyone who's seen the paint job in person can attest to how good it looks for $30 worth of spray paint.

 

I'm going on the end of year 2 and it still looks great!

 

Results...

 

100_0644.jpg

 

100_1423.jpg

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I would nto use flat as stated. The instructions above are perfect for this. You can see miine in my build thread in the projects section(don't have pics to post at work). I used flat and it didnt work to well. The XJ will get satin.

 

Lead_not_follow; what brand of paint did you use.

 

Cole

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get one of those spray gun tops that snap on the rattle can. your finger will not cramp up and hurt afterward.

 

Jonathan

 

 

Like this: :thumbsup:

 

 

That's definitely the one I would recommend. I've got that one and another that doesn't have the double finger trigger. My index finger still cramps if I use the one with the single finger trigger long enough. But, something to watch out for with the one pictured is that it doesn't work too well on some nozzles that have a wide spray pattern. Some of the spray with get caught in the attachment and drip out making a huge mess. Especially if you are painting from above.

 

Willy

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Anyone ever tried rock guarding there whole jeep...? gives a funny texture look lol. I will try to post pics of the 89 as this is what we did ( in garage with a shultz gun...don't laugh). It turned out rather well except for one door I let a buddy paint and he didnt know when the gun runs out of paint and you keep spraying it just moves the wet paint around and flattens it. I also had the lower frame rails painted rust gaurd red it looked awsome.

 

I origally did a rattle can job with just flat black primer and as long as you take your time itll turn out decent. after about a year and a half you could tell it was rattled but for the first year it looked minty.

 

Ill work on pics can someone help me with posting them?

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IF (and this is a fairly big IF) you already have a compressor, buying a cheap/moderate spray gun and a line filter (for moisture) can really result in a great finish for not a whole lot more (in the grand scheme of things).

 

I just priced paint, hardener, and clearcoat for my truck and it came out to $130. Is that more than $30? Yes. But that is for metallic red (my factory color) and includes a clearcoat over the base coat.

 

I have a sprayer, but one can be bought from somewhere like harbor freight for about $50, and the inline filter is under $20.

 

For about a $200 investment (assuming that you already have air), you can have a good paint job with some longevity AND gloss to it.

 

Of course, for $30, that paint job above looks REALLY good. If I was not trying to do a partial restoration, I would be out there with a case of spray cans in a heartbeat!

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I painted my 69 chevy shoptruck with John Deere Blitz Black. It's a semi gloss black, really durable, seals extremely well, rough-and-shoot type paint. No hardener required. I shot my truck with a cheapy spray gun from harbor freight and it came out great. Might be an option for some guys looking to have a scratch resistant finish without rhino lining the whole truck. My 88 will get this paint in the spring.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks guys, It's been my project since I was a freshmen in HS (almost 7 years now). I've had my fun with it, but I just can't bring myself to paint it. I know I won't be able to leave it anywhere. Plus, it gets me in trouble. I'm really considering letting it go this spring and just focusing on the Jeep.

 

But back on topic, the Blitz Black has held up amazingly. I wiped the bird turds off it yesterday (spent the winter in a barn) and there wasn't even a spot on it after. None of it was peeling or had surface rust bleeding thru. I would HIGHLY recomend this paint, especially for offroad trucks.

 

And shelby, they didn' line up that good originally :D

 

The last pic has the flash on to show the satin finish. I've still got a half gallon left to shoot the Manche in spring.

 

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