Earl*t's 89 Eliminator

[Biotex]

I took the passenger side door apart for paint. I decided I will live with taping around the handle and lock cylinder on the drivers side. :grrrr:

[earl*t]

Isn't that a pleasure. I have a new found respect for the guys that do that work everyday. They have way more patience than I.

[earl*t]

Progress pending, scheduled for Line-X and a frontend alignment on Friday. :)

[earl*t]

It's been a good day. The plans for today went off without issue.












The Line-X turned out perfect. My wife also took the Eliminator for the frontend alignment after the liner job. I'm hoping for a productive day tomorrow.

[Biotex]

Man that turned out nice.  Did you do the prep work or the shop?

[earl*t]

Other than scuffing, there was no prep. The previous owner still had the original factory bed liner in the truck when I purchased it. Unfortunately, someone cut the liner to access the tie downs. The resultant holes were oversized and un-uniform allowing water and debris to migrate under the liner. On a positive note, the bed didn't have so much as a dimple. I had gone over the entire bed with a red scuff pad. The shop completely went over it again to meet their prep standard. I chose the under rail, premium finish options. I was surprised to see the liner carried  over the front of the bed, apparently that's the company's standard. My preference would have been a finished edge under the front lip exactly like the tailgate. It still looks good. Here are a few more pictures with the truck in natural lighting.

 

 

[buffalob]

Wow Earl the bed looks awesome....

Is that you or your paint dude in the Mohawk man?

[earl*t]

:rotf: I wish I had hair like that. I'm follicly challenged...ok, I'm bald. I sport a reverse Mohawk. The gentleman in the photo works at the shop responsible for the superb liner job.

[Darren]

Line-X looks killer. Beautiful truck man, I love it.

[RockMJ]

Awesome build thus far! Looking foward to seeing how she progresses in the future

[earl*t]

Thanks guys. The Line-X is flawless. I had looked at several other do-it-yourself products but opted for Line-X because of its, in my opinion, superior appearance. I don't know if it's a standard marketing tool but the shop had a 12 oz. beverage can they had Line-Xed. The sides of the can could not be deflected with moderate pressure, the strength of the product is an added bonus. The tech periodically measured the depth of the product as it was being applied, resulting in very uniform coverage.

I'm approaching completion with a few unfinished details which include:
1) install rain rail trim over doors, tomorrow
2) replace tailpipe, Thursday
3) finish passenger side door lock and handle, waiting for plastic rod clips in mail, Thursday
4) solve non functioning turn signal issue, hopefully Saturday
5) attempt restoration/polishing of Jeep emblem on front header. If anyone has a line on a "new" or in excellent condition emblem, I'd appreciate the necessary information for acquisition.

I'm sure there will be other items that need addressed like paint touch up and buffing that will require assistance. There are other upgrades I'd like to do, but I have another project waiting in the wings that will soon take priority. Thanks for all the views and extending me the courtesy of sharing my project.




In the above picture, the front axle appears slightly rear of center that I assume can be attributed to the lift. The resultant tire interference with the flares needs corrected. I'm considering adjustable control arms to rectify the rubbing. Any recommendations on a simpler and less costly solution? I only need about 1/2" to 1" clearance. The preferred solution would center the axle in the wheel well.

[knever3]

I know it's not a less costly way of centering your front axle but after I put my 3" lift on I ran the stock control arms for a while.  I bought some cheap stock replacements and then finally bought some adjustable upper and lower control arms from JKS with the rubber bushings.  Let me tell you a night and day difference!!  The truck has a better steering feel nice and solid and when you go over bumps on the road it's rock solid.  There used to be a clunk when I went over some big bumps like a driveway enterence. 

 

Not cheap but WAY worth the cost if you are going to drive it.  I also grabbed a front sway bar from a Cherokee Country that was 1-1/16" thick for nearly free.  I got lucky when I put mine in, measured a few times installed them and took it to get alligned, PERFECT caster and camber.  TOE was off just a touch.  Great looking truck!

[GirsMJ86]

That thing looks great. Love the color, just needs the some polished stock Eliminator rims and it would be perfect if you ask me.

 

By the way, what lights are those that you used for the interior domes?

[earl*t]

Thanks for your insight Mr. Knever. If I can improve handling and gain the needed clearance it's a win win situation.

Mr. Rockwell, I certainly respect your opinion. As a matter of fact, my initial inclination was to do exactly as you have suggested in regard to the stock Eliminator wheels. I even invested quite a bit time searching for a vendor and availability of chrome plated OEM 10 hole Eliminator wheels in keeping with a stock appearance. However, after careful consideration I felt that the retro wheels would clash with the overall theme I've tried to capture. I believe the 17's provide a much more contemporary look. It may be interesting to post a poll and see what the general consensus is.

The interior lights are the same many on this sight are using, Euramtec. I used SEM paint to color match the panels. They're reasonably priced and simple to install requiring minor trimming.

Thanks for the compliments on my 89 Eliminator. Emblem is finally in it's place but still needs a facelift.

[earl*t]

I've wrapped up a few more minor details this week. The tailpipe was installed, passenger door completed, and the turn signal issue resolved. The trim pieces over the doors have proven impossible to install. I temporarily borrowed my Cherokee's rearview mirror because the OEM retainer bracket is narrower on the Comanche, just an FYI for anyone doing the late model windshield swap.

I can't express what a pleasure it's been driving the Eliminator again. I'm discovering annoying little rattles and squeaks that need addressed, but nothing of consequence. I need to spend some time under the hood next. That's pretty much uncharted territory for me, so I'll be scouring the pages here for direction. The plan is just tune up items, problem for me is zero electrical experience. I've read a lot on here that's just "Greek" to me. So, please be patient with my upcoming questions.

[buffalob]

your truck looks incredible Earl...I can't tell you how jealous I am.

Thanks for the heads up on the mirror retaining bracket issue. I intend to replace the windshield after paint (assuming we get there).

I already have the 97 and up windshield rubber gasket to do this. Irritating to find I still need another part, but grateful to learn about ahead of time.

Assume you will be using the wonderful weather to be out driving around .....I would be.

 

Can you elaborate on the difficulty with the drip rail trim? I wasted one of mine trying to get it off (and later stepping on it in the shed). Based on this I have left the other side in place and prepped it for paint. The intention was to straighten the other side ( or replace it) and do the same. The goofy clips that hold these it place are well......    goofy. In keeping with the monochrome direction, the rails on mine were to be painted right along with the truck and (hopefully)never removed again. Let me know what it is you are struggling with.......................

[COFFMAN]

Great job Earl, No poser shot of that rear pan don't hold out on us now lol

Earl/Buffalob is the windsheild rubber gasket factory. As in i carnt get the excact one hear in OZ.

The windscreen dudes use a GHM one that is close to the same. I think i want one that is excactly the same.

So as some people say over hear, i may have to get on STATE SIDE. That always cracks me up.

[earl*t]

Thanks again for the compliments guys. I should clarify that the auto glass repair company's tech swapped the windshield in my driveway. I assume that's a common practice everywhere? At any rate, the replacement late model Cherokee windshield already had the rearview mirror bracket attached. If I had realized the old and new brackets were different sizes, I'm sure the tech would have switched them. The appropriate rubber trim was also supplied by the installer. I prefer the cleaner appearance of the rubber seal over the original metal trim.

 

Much of the disassembly of my truck was preformed by the paint/body man who was obviously familiar with the process. That's why the doors were so challenging for me. It appears as though the trim needs to roll onto the pinch seam. I've tried numerous times and do not want to damage the trim. I've applied enough pressure to scratch the paint without managing to engage the clips. I think the trim needs firmly tapped with a soft tipped hammer into place but don't want to destroy the trim.

 

"

When the rain quits, in about four days, I'll try to post some new pics of the roll pan for my mate "down under". :thumbsup:

[buffalob]

Yep the pics show the clips I'm talkin about.....Goofy...I rest my case.

 

Thanks again for the compliments guys. I should clarify that the auto glass repair company's tech swapped the windshield in my driveway. I assume that's a common practice everywhere? At any rate, the replacement late model Cherokee windshield already had the rearview mirror bracket attached. If I had realized the old and new brackets were different sizes, I'm sure the tech would have switched them. The appropriate rubber trim was also supplied by the installer. I prefer the cleaner appearance of the rubber seal over the original metal trim.

 

Much of the disassembly of my truck was preformed by the paint/body man who was obviously familiar with the process. That's why the doors were so challenging for me. It appears as though the trim needs to roll onto the pinch seam. I've tried numerous times and do not want to damage the trim. I've applied enough pressure to scratch the paint without managing to engage the clips. I think the trim needs firmly tapped with a soft tipped hammer into place but don't want to destroy the trim.

 

"

When the rain quits, in about four days, I'll try to post some new pics of the roll pan for my mate "down under". :thumbsup:

[earl*t]

Wrapped up more detail work. Ta daaa!

 
A firm rap of the fist and the drip rail molding snapped into place. Probably not the professional way, but it worked.
Also reinstalled the secondary door seals using plastic blind rivets.

 

As usual, I learned a few lessons on the what should be a simple project. The first rivets I used were cheap. Yet another recurring theme, remember the adage "you get what you pay for", don't buy the cheap rivets. The shank kept breaking before the ribs engaged the button cap.

 

I resorted to a primitive method that partially worked.

 

 

Quality rivets and a professional rivet gun proved much more successful and also reliable.

 

 

While driving the truck last Saturday, there was a rattling sound emanating from under the Eliminator. Upon investigation,  I found two minor issues. The first was something loose inside the muffler. Another trip to the muffler shop is in store. The other item was the front section of the gas tank guard had broken plastic at the mounting points and was barely hanging on.

 

 

Fortunately, Project Guilty sitting along side provided the needed replacement part.

[earl*t]

My most pressing issue now is to locate the origin of this little bugger.

 

I suspect the water pump, we'll see. :wrench: 

[TheDirtyJeep401]

Where did you find it at?

[earl*t]

Where did you find it at?

Rear of oil pan, driver's side.

[TheDirtyJeep401]

Hope the bad luck with the water pump isn't rubbing off on you! Just replaced mine. And by the way the eliminator is lookin good my friend! :thumbsup:

[earl*t]

It's all good. I did a little more investigating this afternoon. The leak is a weeper.

 

It may be difficult to see but the discoloration on the block is antifreeze. Early on in this project, I replaced the pump and rad. I'm guessing a poor seal, my bad. The truck sat for months with no leak until I started running it.