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I purchased this MJ in October of 2015.. Got it ready for the road and inspection and parked it in November. I will be away from December until April so nothing was being done except lots of comanche club reading! Pictures from the kijiji ad: It's about time to actually start working on the jeep so I will try and keep this build page updated. Mostly with pictures. I live on the Island of Newfoundland, Canada. Saw the ad posting for the Mj in PEI (Prince Edward Island), so that means two ferries and a small road trip to go check it out. Loaded up in a Ford windstar mini van and off I went. Looked at the Jeep, hooked it up to a set of tow dollies, unhooked the rear driveshaft (which to my surprise came off easy) and headed home. Got it home and really sized it up, more rust than I initially thought. So this is going to be a faily big project that I got to "sleep on" all winter. I did however fix the floor rust and few other things that it would need to be inspected and registered. I'm the second owner of this Jeep, I bought it off the original owner who picked it up in '89. Nice older gentleman who said the truck as been sitting in his shop for the past couple years. It only has 155,000kms on it. I was expecting it to have some maintenance needed. I didn't get pictures of the actual nest in the intake box.. One thing I did learn from here is to pull your carpets.. I was kind of nervous about it, seeing as the Jeep came from a Island on the east coast. I shouldn't have been too shocked but I was kind of taken back when I seen the carpet was half the floor Passenger side wasn't as bad Never having done body work before I was kind of discouraged but in the end I think the floor turned out ok. Patch work done and passenger side sealed I did put down some rubber water seal but I'm not too sure if I like it. It doesn't stick as good as I was hoping, but it was colder when I installed it. Looking underneath it was certain rust was going to be my biggest issue with this build I'm planning on a front and rear axle swap, XJ front and the Explorer 8.8 so I'm not too concerned with the axle rust. The frame and body are in overall decent condition. It looks as though the bottom of the doors and the box have been redone before. I did get it inspected, insured and registered before I parked it for the winter. First actual drive.. Can see where the fender meets the door area that it doesn't look factory/lined up properly. It will most likely be cut out for rock rails anyway.

Hi all. As I've explained to some members who've posted to the Street Comanche Registry, I've not been active over the last 5 or 6 years as my wife battled cancer. She lost that battle last May and it's been (still is) tough. But I'm finally returning to other things important in my life and it's been a long while since anything substantial was done with #24. I didn't read closely enough or thoroughly enough Pete's ongoing mantra about pulling up the carpet. I didn't have a spot of rust on the exterior, under, on any fenders, or doors, didn't think I really had to worry. I missed the part about other water entry points...sigh. Some time ago I discovered the carpeting wet and found the sunroof had been leaking ever so slightly but for ever so long apparently. But in the process of getting my feet wet with restarting the project I note water entry / rust in some unexpected places. At least the master cylinder hasn't eaten up the fusebox assy. So that's a bonus. I've not yet posted new images or made updates on my build sheet but owe the site a lot of attention as well and plan to get that done very soon. Meanwhile I come seeking wisdom and experience. Now that the interior is fully stripped, I pulled the fuse box assy apart and note that there is evidence that water seeped past and into the interior. What I did not expect was to find that the same water had infiltrated UNDER the seam sealer. I can only presume that the surface wasn't prepared correctly or the sealer SHOULD have been well connected as it is in most places. But now I'm leary of ALL the seam sealer. Am I crazy to think it ALL has to be somehow removed to check to see if it's eaten up underneath? GAWD there's a lot of seam sealer... Is it overkill? Should just look maybe for loose edges and cracks (which I've found). I've pulled the sealer out of a corner where it was cracked by 1/4" x 1" so I pried it out. Sure enough rusty metal underneath. Just surface rust at that specific point but ...concern seems justified. So you experienced bodymen.... take a look at the images and tell me... what do I do / have done? I'll live another 20 years if I'm lucky and if I'm still driving that long even LUCKIER... but I want it fixed RIGHT not halfassed. The truck may well be passed to a grandkid going forward... not quite sure what to do with this in my will frankly, if it ever becomes worthwhile to will to someone... and not to be morose but... think about it folks... who gets YOUR projects...lol It WILL become an issue... pun fully intended. But similarly (and apologies for not having the correct terminology, but there is this sort of U Shaped channel with flanges that is spot welded to the floorpan in the cab. It essentially acts as support and I'm supposing as part of the Uni-Frame section under the cab. It's kind of like the cab floorpan is sandwiched between a deeper U shape under the pan and a shallower U shape on top of the pan, creating a defacto "frame" unit, integrating the cab floorpans. So this top channel is ate UP with pockmarks millimeters deep in the front 1/3 of it's length. Do I need to replace that channel? or just fill and paint? I've bought a full left floorpan to resolve what holes that I KNOW are there, delivery pending... But how does that work. Do I need to grind out every single one of those spot welds, UNweld the studs that mount thorough it, UNweld the side frame rail that runs to the driver's door opening and take ALL that off to cut out and weld in the floor pans? What about that uchannel frame section below? Those who know.... how does that work exactly to replace the floorpan? Can't see how you'd do it without "disassembling" the frame in that area....sounds like a bad idea. Yet they sell this full cab length floorpan... He'p me, he'p me... LOL

I was told by somebody at a gas station that a Ford Ranger sport bed would fit on the short box Comanche. Could any one confirm that? I haven't seen anything about it in my searches. My bed is pretty rotted up on the sides. Should I look for a ranger bed or repair the sides? I don't have a big budget by any means. Lol. It needs the outer walls above the wheels and the inner wheel well on one side, maybe both. I was thinking for a repair that pop riveting or welding sheet metal bent/cut to shape on both sides would work nice. After cutting the rot out of course, and make them the same on both sides so it doesn't look absolutely terrible. Any thoughts?

Not sure if anyone has done it or tried it. I'm thinking about cutting out the rear wheel well of a 2 door Cherokee almost up to the window and replacing the rust on my bed. Haven't looked into it for to long but the wheel wells look about the same shape/size. Anyone know if this will work? Are they the same size/shape wheel wells? Anyone do it?

So I've finally decided to get serious about restoring my fathers 86 and first on the agenda is replacing the floor. I very much never want to do this again, so I'm trying to do it right the first time. I cut all the rust back and have some new floor pans to go in, but I have a question about the rockers. They're rusted from the inside near the tire. Here's a before picture and where I'm at now. Has anyone repaired this before and have any advice. Right now the plan is to get some metal flats (maybe stainless) and try to weld them in at the right angle but I'm open to different solutions. Any help would be appreciated.

Well I've given it all I had and held off the rust cancer for a long time, but I think the day is near when I'm gonna have to get serious and do some major work before its too late. I've all but decided on Spadano Enterprises ROCKer panel sliders to take care of the pinholes developing on the outer panel (http://spadanoenterprises.com/-mj--comanche.html) but I'm not sure about the inner rockers' condition. Is there any way (short of drilling a hole and poking a flashlight in there) to get a heads up on how they are? I took pictures of the floor issues. Water likes to sit here and I was prompted to peel up the bedliner coating and found this: The driver's side was patched with fiberglass years ago and is finally failing; I'm not so certain a replacement floor pan would cover this far up the footwell... The passenger's side isn't as bad, but the firewall looks different to me... has this been fixed before?

Hello all, I am new to the club and have been looking for a comanche for quite some time now. I have found one that is close and seems to be a good deal except for this picture the owner sent. The owner said the frame has no rust on it, but this looks like frame rust to me. I think its right in the middle under the cab, but as I have never owned a comanche before I do not know enough to make a decision on this. Is it fixable within reason if this really is the only rust? I do have an arc welder but do not know how big of a project this might be and I do not know how important these bars are. Any input is appreciated. I have not gone to see the truck in person yet.

Just purchased my second Comanche, 91 Eliminator shortbed 4x4 4.0 I6 HO, Ax15, and the metric ton package (dana 44!). Bought it for $1000 runs great only 168k on it and all stock. Problem is floorboards and rockers are gone. (Literally holes you can stick your leg through) I have replacements for both those but came across a rotten frame. Leaf spring and shackles are fine just drivers side is rotted up to the brake lines and a pretty decent size hole. Has anyone repaired a unibody? I know you can strengthen them with unibody supports but anyone do something different?

so, every winter, I make sure all the projects are out of the driveway so we can park near the door in the cold weather. Today was the day to do that. I fired up the rusty parts Jeep to use as a push/pull vehicle and got to work. It pulled the Rambler up the hill with ease, but after I backed down to get the non running Jeep and pull it up the hill, I heard a strange clanking noise. I looked underneath and saw this. now, I wondered, how the hell did that happen? and then I saw the wheels were located too far back in the wheelwell then, I looked at the frame and saw it was broken in half! the poor truck has had it, the guy I got it from was using it to haul firewood out of the woods. He told me he retired it because he was afraid it was going to break in half and be stranded in the woods. I'd say his timing was perfect so, I pulled the driveshaft and finished the job with the front axle, you can't keep a Jeep down :)

Ok I have a little rust in my 92 mj on the drivers rocker and the floors both... I was wondering where the best place to get the replacement parts from that fit correctly and look right. I found some and was wondering if they're correct. If not please give some input where you have gotten some replacements from Rockers- http://www.andysautosport.com/products/classic_2_current__070-020-1.html Floors- http://www.andysautosport.com/floor_pans/jeep_comanche/1992.html

I don't know if this goes in Tech, or Pub, so relocate if necessary and apologies. My gallon just of RustX froze. Or rather, my neighbor gave me a free gallon of it and he had let if freeze. Anyone with chemical experience: can I put it in a blender and make it good again? (there was an inch of gooey, grainy stuff in the bottom of the jug. Not easy to break up. But I figure a blender could smooth it all out again. What I don't know, is did freezing completely ruin the ingredients, or just solidify them a bit? My MJ is terribly rust covered.

Everybody needs to check this out. If it's real and it works, I'll use this stuff frickin everywhere, including my cab floors and bench seat, windshield and all windows. http://junkee.com/someone-invented-magic-and-it-is-freaking-us-out/14880