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Everything posted by Limeyjeeper
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It is about a 100 mile trail. It has some switchbacks that can be tricky. Also some rocky bits. You need a high clearance 4x4. Low range and lockers are always good. I would never go solo without a winch either. I would do it between April and October. You will need a day pass that you can get at recreation.gov. I think you also need a pass to camp. If it has rained a lot you need to be aware of high water in places, so keep an eye on the forecast. Backroad Exploration has a great U tube video showing the whole trail, so does Ozark Overland Adventures. I didn't do all of it when I ran it 3 years ago. It is spectacular. You need to be very attentive due to all the mountain bikers who usually presume you can see/hear them!! You Tube is a great resource when researching the difficulty of trails.
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Merlin's Old School Garage on Utube is doing a Jetta Ute. Was really impressed with the kit quality.
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Gathering info: Comanche parts suppliers
Limeyjeeper replied to ghetdjc320's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I think this would be very useful. It is hard with all the threads going to keep track of all the new parts. -
This guy does some pretty cool conversion kits!! Jeep Ute | smythcars (smythkitcars.com)
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Comanche Dawn
Limeyjeeper replied to Limeyjeeper's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
My hood fit was very poor. Hopefully Socal Fiber pay a bit more attention to that. I love the hood. It really turns heads. You just need to do a lot of rework to get it to fit. Mine didn't have enough bow in it so the back of the hood didn't line up with the fender very well. We had to cut the fiberglass and remake it to increase the bend. Other people have had no issues so maybe I was the last one before they went belly up. -
91 Eliminator 83K miles refresh with NOS parts
Limeyjeeper replied to Red Mistress's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I run OME on mine front and back. They ride really well. I love them. -
I agree with Rokinn. Clean the engine first and then see if the injector gets wet again by running the engine. Sniff the liquid to see if it is gas and not oil. If it smells like gas look to see if it is coming from the top, bottom or body of the injector. There is an o ring at the top and bottom of the injector usually these injector o rings go first. Pretty unusual for an injector body to leak. Fixing the valve cover gasket is easy. Check you PCV valve and make sure it is not blocked. That can cause pressure in the top of the engine and cause the cover to leak.
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I have asked them if they can do the front park lights with one white and one amber LED so you can have white park lights and an amber turn signal in the same housing.
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The factory block is good for a lot of horsepower before you need to beef up the bottom end. Plenty of guys running 450+ on stock internals.
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Comanche Dawn
Limeyjeeper replied to Limeyjeeper's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
Had a pretty busy week with the Jeep. I fixed the hinges on my hood. When I first did them I thought rivets would get the job done, but no I should have mounted them in Fiber Glass which I now have done. Also replaced the disappointing Quik-Latch hood pins. with the Aero Latch pins. They are bigger but sooo much better. With a bigger area they put a lot less stress on the fiber glass and they are also much easier to adjust. The Quik Latch quality for the price is not good value. The Amazon knockoffs are just as good/bad. I got the new battery tray in. My old one from Rusty's only held an Optima battery which only lasted 3 years. Now have an awesome Odyssey battery in place with the Dirtbound Offroad Battery holder. I installed the cargo box splash guards which had been missing. I replaced the deteriorated factory ones with Styrene Butadiene Rubber SBR which is more flexible and doesn't become brittle in time. I also refurbished all my fender flare retainers. Some were only 3 years old and had already snapped. Used Stainless bolts and internal lock washers to hold them in place, so they are easy to replace if I ever need to. This week I am going to build new taillights using the Key Parts lenses and the ZimmDak Industries housings. The fit is great, just waiting for the Sikaflex to glue them together. -
new full taillight assembly coming from Oracle!
Limeyjeeper replied to Pete M's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Wow -
You Tube TV is surprisingly good and pretty cheap. Has a lot of channels.
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I am using stainless bolts which complicates things a bit.
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These are the internal lock washers I used:- Amazon.com: Bettomshin 40Pcs M5 Internal Tooth Lock Washers, 5mm ID 12mm OD Starlock 304 Stainless Steel Push on Lock Washer Locking Clips Fastener, Used for Replacement and Maintenance of Machine Parts Silver : Industrial & Scientific
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Yea, I just snapped a couple off a 3 year old NOS flare retainer and it was already rusting!!
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I am doing it right now. Grind the stud off, drill it out and replace it with an M5 stainless steel bolt and internal tooth lock washers. The washer will hold the bolt in position. You can weld them in but the metal is very thin. I would also paint them if you can. The zinc coating doesn't really stop the rust. I used 1" long bolts.
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Keyparts Floor Plugs
Limeyjeeper replied to Limeyjeeper's topic in Craigslist/eBay... i.e. Not Your Stuff
I need to look under my MJ and let you know -
Your truck will look soooo good with that front end on it!!
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Calling All Electrical Gurus
Limeyjeeper replied to CO MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
That is some brutal wiring in that fuse box. Surprised the truck didn't burn to the ground. Adding non fused circuits into hot side of spare slots on the fuse box is never a good idea -
Comanche Dawn
Limeyjeeper replied to Limeyjeeper's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
The OEM, original front clip is off to paint. All OEM parts. Big mistake going aftermarket. Never fitted right and now half the tabs that the top mount screws into snapped off. Not a solid piece at all. Yet another lesson learned. I only did it because it was less parts to paint. So now the OEM one will be painted as 8 separate parts. Main clip, top metal rail, bottom metal rail. Indicator inner insert left and right and headlight bezel left and right. It is fascinating how the front clip went from 8 parts in 86-90 to 4 in 1991 (left and right headlight bezel, clip and grille and then to 2 in 1997, clip and grille. Headlight and inner bezel for indicator. Replaced headlight bezel as it had a broken side piece One of the broken tabs holding the L bracket to the top radiator crossmember. -
Another new keyparts product Floor Plugs 1.5 Inch 84-01 Jeep Cherokee 84-90 Wagoneer (Key Parts # 0482-711) | eBay
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Yes please, but you need to put an LS in it!!
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Comanche Dawn
Limeyjeeper replied to Limeyjeeper's topic in MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
Swapped out the upper hoses. I was using 1 3/8" hoses and I noticed that they were leaking. I found some 90 degree 1 1/4" hoses which is the correct size for the upper LS hose. Fit is much better. They are Texas Specialty Products Part No TSP-13.6508.
