1987Comanche

The seat mounting studs coming through the floor are replaceable. The floor pans are threaded and you can screw in longer metric bolts (M8 X 1.25 I think) from the bottom to replace the studs. If the nuts holding the seat bracket in are rusted solid you'll unscrew the entire stud from the floor, then cut the nut & stud off the seat bracket. I replaced 3 studs on my '90 when I pulled the seats out..4 were ok and 1 snapped off flush with the floor pan.

Is your truck stick or auto? If stick then I'd bet on brake fluid eating your fuse panel.

Sounds like the diagnosis is pretty much spot on. The harmonic balancer for my '90 4.0 was in stock at Advance for around $50. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 6656446___

There are a few minor differences. My '87 had the prop rod riveted to the Driver's side of the header panel and the retaining clip on the pass side. The '90 has a much smaller prop rod on the pass side inner fender and this seems to be the XJ/MJ standard. The '87 4 cyl rad was really easy to reach. The '90 4.0 radiator is tucked under the header panel.

I think I figured it out. I think it's porosity in the casting. It's not terribly uncommon in poor quality grey cast but the fact that they were able to turn the casting down without breaking through to it is interesting. It's my best theory anyway. I'll have to post some pics after I help him do a brake job. I was pleasantly surprised by this after doing a brake job on the old '87 2WD. I thought it would involve new wheel bearings, etc.

I saw something this evening I've never come across before. My friend brought over his 2000 XJ complaining of vibration when braking. I'm thinking typical warped rotors, deep groves worn in them, etc. I looked at them through the wheels (base steelies) and the area where the pads ride is riddled with pockmarks in the rotors. I'd guess they vary to approx 0.030" deep and there were easily 100+ on the outside edge of the Dr side rotor. If I remember correctly the rotors looked ok when I saw the truck last year and it's definitely driven (12K this past year) so I don't think it's rust. What causes this? :dunno:

Since it's a M/T vehicle you should be able to leave the driveshaft in for towing. Can you rig up the brakes to nominally work for the 2 mile trip and drive it during a low traffic time? When I bought my plow truck the rear brake lines were rotted out and I drove the truck 110 miles back home. I crimped off the rear lines and only had front brakes. Granted I drove quite gingerly but I made it back.

My '90 would make some scary cold start noises, espec when it got below 30 outside. Retrofitting the later model, horizontal mount oil filter made a big difference.

So I have to strip the dash to change out the air box or is it just an adapter on the bottom? Do you have a pic or diagram of the differences? I'm assuming you can't ignore the Cherokee console provisions b/c they interfere with the Comanche floor ducts? I'm assuming rocker style buckets angle say +- 20 degrees in addition to sliding forward & backwards

Good info. I can basically search for any matching console that's in good shape. Any ideas on difficulty of converting 4 dr seats to flip forward like the 2 dr folding seats? I'm hoping to find a 2 dr XJ (MJ would be even better) but the likelihood of the 4 dr is significantly higher.

I'm gathering a parts list for my next jy run and am going to seriously look for the necessary parts for the bench to bucket/console conversion. The bench in the '90 is a lot less comfortable than the one in the '87...less padding I think. Based on the searching I've done I need '94 or earlier seats and will use my bench brackets, correct? If I find good 4 dr seats can I add the hardware to convert them into 2 dr seats later on? I found a few pics of consoles with cup holders but most don't seem to have any. What donor(s) have the cup holder? Finally if there are no decent pre '94s in the yard is the center console from the 95-96 or 97+ bolt in? Will newer seats work with an older console and vice versa or do the interior generations need to be matched?

I'm gathering a parts list for my next jy run and am going to seriously look for the necessary parts for the bench to bucket/console conversion. The bench in the '90 is a lot less comfortable than the one in the '87...less padding I think. Based on the searching I've done I need '94 or earlier seats and will use my bench brackets, correct? If I find good 4 dr seats can I add the hardware to convert them into 2 dr seats later on? I found a few pics of consoles with cup holders but most don't seem to have any. What donor(s) have the cup holder? Finally if there are no decent pre '94s in the yard is the center console from the 95-96 or 97+ bolt in? Will newer seats work with an older console and vice versa or do the interior generations need to be matched?

Installed the factory tow hooks & brackets that I scored at LKQ self serve last weekend. Driver's side bumper bracket was bent so I had to grind it off the tow hook bracket assy (don't know why they welded them) and use my existing bracket.

My 4.0 did the same thing when I did the full cluster swap shortly after buying her. I found out 2 things: 1. the 1st sending unit had a piece of garbage inside that didn't allow it to register real time pressure changes (engine internals were dirty) and 2. when verified with a mechanical gauge I really only did have 20-25psi at 2000 RPM. I dropped the pan, scraped the sludge, did RMS and oil pump and replaced the sender. Now it's 40PSI at stone cold startup, 2.5-10psi at hot idle and 20-25PSI on the highway. I'd love higher oil pressure but what can one do? She runs good, the oil is getting cleaner all the time, and I've put 11K miles on her like this. :dunno:

Yep, it's the detent that theoretically holds the door at wide open position and keeps it from slamming shut. None of mine ever worked though...

So if the dealer accessory kit was bolted, why was the factory bracketry welded together? You'd have to pull the bumper for either install so it wouldn't be any easier.

How is your track bar? Mine was shot and the wheel was 1/4 turn off until I replaced it. If you're sure the suspension is ok an alignment shop can center the wheel up (tie rod end adjustment).

My trip to LKQ self serve went pretty well. The highlight was scoring a set of factory tow hooks with bracketry. The front bumper was bent so it was quite a struggle to remove everything. I know for a fact that one of the brackets (bumper bracket & tow hook reinforcement are welded together) is bent. I should be able to straighten it out using my press and/or vise. Here's the question...what should the flange (where it bolts to the bumper) look like? Is there a template or set of dimensions out there I can use?

Did any of the MJ's come with carpeting on the back wall of the cab? If so, does anyone know the rough size/method of attachment? I know the 88-98 Chevy/GMC C/K trucks were fully carpeted in the higher trim levels and wondered if the Comanches were the same. I'm planning to hit the jy tomorrow and, if I know the size, I can probably grab the grey carpeting panel from something else to cut down to size.

Rubber= cheap and easy to find. The OE ones lasted 20+ yrs so replacements should last at least 10.

Spliced in the new style, all metal socket. So far, so good :)

How's your oil pressure? If the noise is centered in the valve train the top end might be starving for oil.

4X4 trucks use a sealed assy. I think a new one is around $90.

So this is the fix for the turn signal indicator in the cluster staying lit all the time? Whenever the headlights or running lights are on the LH turn signal indicator stays lit. Also the LH turn signal under the headlight is only 1/2 the intensity of the RH one.

He butchered the spelling of Comanche but still a neat truck. http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/1999016751.html