1987Comanche

What type of chain is it? I'm assuming Morse HY-VO but what is the width and pin type? Round pin chains are the toughest and noisest. Gold bar shaped (9600) are ok but 8600 chains suck.

It's a basic Samsung phone. Nothing special and not particularly smart. 309K miles!

It was pretty sad but she was an excellent parts donor. Here's a pic of everything I pulled: the only item not in the pic is the carpet for the back of the cab. That's already in my truck :clapping:

I ran across a nice one on an '88 at LKQ in Greenville, SC. Posted some photos in the Pub if you want to see them.

I ran across a 1988, 4.0 AW4 2WD SWB at LKQ in Greenville. This truck was nice and I couldn't believe the odo said 309K. I pulled a lot of stuff but if anyone needs a nice bed, tank, rear, and/or sending unit it's still there: Tried taking a photo of the VIN but it didn't come out: I knocked a bunch of things I needed/wanted off my list: rear bumper, bucket seat tracks, MJ specific center console insert, MJ rear speakers and brackets, Carpeted panel for the rear of the cab, exhaust. It was a great day at the jy!

My '90 continually sprouted leaks all over the place. I converted to open system for around $120. 1. '91+ XJ radiator with pressure cap ($60-70 on e-bay). 2. 1st gen S-10/Blazer overflow tank (fits nicely in the corner and I modified the old pressure tank bracket to fit it. $10 @ jy) 3. Small hose from overflow to radiator 4. 1 piece of 5/8" heater hose and 1 piece 3/4" radiator hose. Yes the T-stat housing is made for a 3/4" hose but if you stick the end of the 5/8" hose in a cup of boiling water it softens up and goes right on. 5. Done :clapping:

You need to find the point of high resistance in the circuit. If I remember correctly no resistance (0 ohms) = 0psi and 100ohm=80psi on the gauge. You may find frayed insulation, corroded connector, etc. I suppose it's possible that the oil feed port is physically blocked. If you remove the sender and run the engine for a few seconds without it do you get a decent stream of oil from the port? Perhaps you'll blow out a chunk of carbon in the process. This is what caused my gauge to act erratically.

You're missing the small metal "button" (metal tang in the column) that actuates the horn. The base wheel has a wire soldered on a somewhat similar, but incompatible button. It looks like you have the spring that goes beneath it though...

WNC. Sold her around Halloween of 2009 to a guy who I think was a dealer. He had a dealer tag, paid cash, and wanted the title signed, but not notarized.

When I sold the '87 to buy the '90 I didn't think much about letting her go. In the past few years (and lots of reading on here) I've started to wonder both what she was originally born with and where she might have ended up. I never realized how rare the black interior vehicles were. Can anyone look up the VIN to see how she was originally born and/or where she ended up? 1JTHS641XHT098952 1987 2WD SWB Comanche Sportruck. External slave AX-5 with AMC 150 (V belt setup...transplanted from an '86 by a PO??). Cream/tan exterior with black interior that was in pretty good shape. Had a truck topper. 19XXXX miles when I sold her. Can anyone look her up??

Very interesting. I had V belts instead of serpentine too. Maybe I had a very early build '87? Does someone on here have the capability of running the VIN to get the "built as" condition? Truck has been gone for 2+ yrs but I still have the VIN.

'87 2.5s should have an external slave. Mine did. I used the Advance Auto special (not sure of brand) and never had any problems. I think external slave took about 1.5 hrs to change and bleed.

Both of the ISAs I pulled from the JY worked just fine (the one on the '87 was dead when I bought her). Most of the u-pull-its have a 30 day warranty on parts and, for $15 vs $150 new I figured I had nothing to lose. If you found multiple Renix 2.5s in the yard I'd take the cleanest/driest one but chances are you'll be lucky to find a single donor.

That is a Renix idle speed actuator for a 4 cyl. A lot of the Renix specific TBI parts are crazy expensive so I grabbed a complete throttle body at the JY as a spare. When I sold my '87 I stripped the parts off the spare TBI and sold them on this site. I sold my ISA for $30 shipped, which I thought was a great deal.

Bad TPS. It's happened to my '90 4.0 twice so far.

Have you done a compression test? My '87 2.5 started losing power and it turned out it was also losing compression. That's why I now have the '90 4.0 MJ.

Really your best (if most time consuming) option is to start at your headlight (or tail light), probe the contacts with a multimeter to check for voltage and work your way back to the fuse panel. Perhaps you have a connector that didn't seat fully somewhere along the way.

http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/2777700018.html

Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks :clapping:

Don't know when Ohio started tailpipe sniffers. This is the first of his vehicles that's needed the sniff check. I'll look into EGR. From what I can tell bumping the timing back should help clean up the NOx too. HC and CO will go up and he'll loose some power but it can be reset as soon as the E-check is over. I'm just not sure how far to retard the timing to hit the sweet spot. State inspection (NC, NY, PA, etc) is just a money maker, nothing more. That truck was NC legal and I'm sure it was lick-n-sticked more than once along the way. NY was even worse. It's amazing that vehicles with no doors (just vapor barrier and windows) are street legal and pass "safety" inspection. FL got rid of state inspection in 1982 and I felt safer driving through that state than living in NY.

Truck is running Ohio emissions test and originally came from NC. It's running regular 87 Octane and I suggested looking for 93 octane oxygenated fuel. Would octane booster be a better idea than the Guaranteed to Pass stuff they sell? The engine is clean (old plugs looked great) so really it's a matter of trading NO for higher CO and HC. I have plenty of room on both of those. BTW cat is brand new.

This isn't for my MJ but this seems like a good forum for my question. I have a friend struggling with smog check on a newly acquired '88 Dodge Ram 318 TBI (by Holley, of all people), 727 torqueflite. The smog pump is gone but, then again, so is the small (1/2"?) pipe that would feed air into the exhaust pipe. It came from a state that could care less about emissions. Anyway we tuned it up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, etc) and he took her in. He passed everything except NOx with results as follows: HC: 15.5PPM, limit 155 CO: 0.01%, limit 1.9% NO: 2002.9, limit 1508 (FAIL) CO2: 15.2%, no limit The truck runs well and doesn't exhibit any indications of having EGR problems (part throttle detonation or random stalling from a stuck EGR valve). I suggested the O2 sensor next. Any other ideas??

Silver Stars make a big difference. I've put 3 sets in my vehicles and recommended them to a friend with an '01 XJ who has a hard time seeing at night. He's quite happy with them.

This one's near my house and meets your criteria. http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/2677442702.html

:D Would love too...unfortunately I'll probably be dead before I have enough $$ to retire. :) Again wish I could but she only puts out 25psi hot oil pressure cruising on the hwy. I figure following the 10psi/1000RPM rule of thumb got me 20K down the road so I might as well stick with it. It limits me to about 73mph. The cable seems good though I haven't checked the transfer case end. I had a speedo cable issue on the '87 but it hissed like crazy and the needle jumped all over the place (pre full gauge cluster). This one is quiet and seems ok. Would it be worthwhile to pull the needle off and reseat it? I had the speedo apart 2 yrs ago when I set the correct mileage. I was thinking about driving a bit with the needle at 5mph to see if the odometer moves. That would eliminate the cable as being the source of the problem. Would I damage the speedo by doing this?