1987Comanche

Pulled the kink out of the lower radiator support last night:

Finished stripping the bent/broken parts off the front end and hung the new pass fender. Turns out the fender is a little lighter but it looks pretty good:

What about a different brand clutch? Does the NAPA (LUK) brand have the same fitment problem? I've had fitment problems with ball joints before...switch to a different mfg and the issue goes away.

Can you knurl the inside of the strap or perhaps liberally coat it with Loctite or JB weld? All you need is a tighter fit...

Door hinge fix looked like it worked out nicely :thumbsup: What are your bodywork plans for the front 1/2 ?

Yep, $230 for the whole front clip minus the driver's side fender. There's also $30 in "core charges" and a few other misc parts in there (carpeted panel for back of the cab, brackets, etc). I registered Georgia at lunch today and had a really neat thing happen. On the way to the DMV I saw Meg, my old '87 driving around. I hadn't seen that truck in 3.5 yrs...what are the odds of running across my 1st MJ on the way to registering the new one??

Don't have her torn down yet but I did hit LKQ this morning and found a Red '93 Sport. $230 later I have... Fender has a pucker in it but it's red and even the pinstripe matches!

Just picked her up from just outside of Atlanta today, hense her name. She's a '92 (build date 3/92), 4.0 HO, AX-15, 2WD, Sportruck (?) with 246K miles and some needs. Most notably she needs a front 3/4 but she is rust free (sold new in Ft. Meyers, FL). Griswold family truckster at work...

Looks nice and solid with only a little surface rust. :clapping:

I'll be interested to see if new roll pins does the trick on the doors. Certainly better than reaming the hinges and installing bushings.

2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT and no, there's a fair amount of fabrication involved. http://comancheclub.com/topic/25441-02-grand-am-gt-2-dr-seats-in-a-comanche-with-pics/page__hl__grand

X2 :D :thumbsup:

Update: He's 10 miles from the TX state line and 650 miles from home! . :MJ 1: .

Airline lost his luggage. He had to drive back to CLT to pick it up

Just spoke to Eric. He crossed into Mississippi around 9AM.

That's the thrust bearing. Per FSM it should be installed at #3 position. Guy assembling the engine was asleep at the wheel that day... Was it a reman engine or OE?

Pictures! We need pics of your truck in front of the cool landmarks along the way!!

Can you view an .xps file? If you send me your email address I can send you the info for the 150/2.5L

Thought you might recognize the trans :D I used the one piece master & slave assy from the donor. I investigated other ways to do this conversion but it seems that bleeding the slave is nearly impossible if you cut & splice.

I have a spare floating around in the basement. LMK if you need it

If I needed an XJ I'd be all over this one... http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/3543311319.html

Maybe we could pin this thread in the project section. Might make it easier for others with the same question(s) to find...

Internal Slave AX-15 (slave cyl removed) Parts from external slave AX-15 External slave bellhousing next to internal slave AX-15: Clean the external slave bearing retainer and replace the input shaft seal: Use RTV to seal external slave bearing retainer to trans. It is a direct fit. Then install bellhousing. I'd recommending replacing the ball stud, shift fork, and clip that retains the fork to the ball stud. Purchase a clutch kit for a '96 4.0. You'll need to buy a separate pilot bearing with 0.590" ID and 1.055" OD. You will also need a 29/64" drill bit to open up the hole on the clutch master cyl. It won't fit the pin on the clutch pedal unless you drill it oversize.

I have some pics of the comparison and swap I can post if you want. The swap itself is easy...finding the correct parts can be difficult.

Put a floor jack and wood block under the trans, pull the crossmember and trans mount, then lower the trans/T-case a little at a time until you can get to the bolts without a U-joint extension. Wrap one hand around the trans (holding the head of the socket), put the ratchet at 90 degrees to the body, and do a pull up on the ratchet. It will break free. If they're the original Torx bolts be very careful...they tend to round off.