1987Comanche

If I didn't already have my '92 I'd be all over this... http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/4100589342.html

You'll get a decent master cyl from AutoZone....eventually. On Maura ('90) it took me 3 to get one that didn't leak and lasted more than 6 months. Georgia ('92) is on her second AZ clutch master. First one lasted about 2 months before leaking. Second seems ok so far...

X2. Your rear brakes sprung a leak.

Looks just like Maura's OE engine and, like me, I ultimately think you'll have to R&R the motor. Your compression readings are low on a few cylinders. How much oil are blowing out/leaking (miles/qt)? What's your hot oil pressure? It might be worth looking at what I found so you can compare. Look at pg 2 for the OE engine autopsy results. http://comancheclub.com/topic/27930-my-1990-and-some-pics-of-the-old-87/?hl=Maura

What you need is someone with a mid-90 through early -92 2WD to take some measurements and check their calipers for factory P/N stampings. Georgia is a late '92 build and she uses the 4WD brake hardware so no help there. Are the caliper retaining brackets bolted on to the knuckle or is it a 1 pc forging? Maybe someone has a 2WD front axle laying around from a 4WD conversion that could be a donor?

Have to pick up a few appliances this weekend and noted that, with the OE bedliner, there are no provisions to reach the cargo tie downs. After some measurements, partial bedliner removal, and some drilling with a 1/2" bit I now have access to the tie downs :D In case anyone is wondering, the tie down hooks are level with the 5th molded rib in the OE bedliner. Also, surprisingly, the front tie downs are about 3" back from the front corner of the bedliner

I went through a variation of this when I converted Maura's AX-15 to an external slave trans. Go to the parts store with your calipers and ask them if you can look at a clutch kit for an internal slave AX-15 (e.g. 1990). The kit comes with 2 pilot bearings as it fits both Renix & HO. You can get the OD off the 2 piece Renix bearing and the ID off the HO bushing. If I remember correctly the HO bushing was round numbers (0.75" ID, 1" OD). You'll then need to find a bushing/bearing with the HO ID and the Renix OD. I think it's .75" ID and 1.063" OD but I'm quote that from memory...

Looks like a really good deal for someone who needs body parts: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4043923654.html

Perhaps but it looks like it's been in there for a long, long time. No Metric Tonne badges. Just "4.0 Litre" on the back True. I might give them a call and ask the most important question: price. Right now I have no idea what he'd want for it...

Left work a bit early today and went back for a 2nd look. I only had about 20 minutes before they closed but I discovered she's an '88, the latch on the slider was broken, and some of the weather stripping was falling apart. Given the so-so condition and difficulty of removal it looks like I'll be leaving it behind. Turns out it's a D35 (was hoping for a 44 but oh well), & the tailgate is bowed. Didn't try the e-brake due to time constraints & as the windshield was MIA I'd be leery of the ECU. I did, however grab the M/T specific TPS. I know those things are incredibly difficult to find. No time to make an attempt at the fender flares

Yep. WNC

I was afraid pulling the slider was a royal PITA and it appears that it is. It does have a frame (as opposed to a windshield) so there's a decent chance I can get it out without breaking it. I'll have to think on this one... :hmm:

Hit the jy this past weekend and found a few things for Georgia. Her old wiper transmission was shot (replaced the bushings, wipers still slapped the cowl) so I picked up a nice tight one from a 2000XJ. Put new bushings in it and dropped it in: Also grabbed an accelerator cable (throttle sticking shut), gray console lid, & a few other odds and ends. Also happy to report that the popping is still gone :banana:

I was really surprised to find it. With 113K miles you'd think she'd still be on the road... The RH tail light is broken, LH I think is ok. The rear bumper is bent up (always on the lookout for a bumper better than my current one...), & the tailgate looked "mossy" but ok. The interior & skid plates are what grabbed my attention. It was a bucket seat truck. Buckets were gone, center console was ripped out, but all the plastic trim (B pillars, under the window, etc) looked really nice. The headliner was in good shape except that it had faded to some kind of weird yellow (interior is burgundy). If it was gray I would have grabbed some of it. I'll have to take a closer look at the rear flares if I go back & see if they'll come off without a fight. I forgot to check the axle...only a metric tonne would have a D44, right?

As the title says I was trolling a junkyard I don't usually frequent and I came across this '88 or '89 LWB 4X4 Pioneer with only 113K miles and factory skid plates. I know the rear window is bonded to the cab (like the windshield) and I'm debating going back for the slider. How difficult is it to pull the rear window? Any pointers on how to get it out if I go back?

TBI 4.3 (90 deg V6) has ribbed valve covers with center bolts to retain them. The 60 degree V6 valve covers have bolts in the corners. The 4.3 TBI water pump is the classic SBC "mickey mouse" water pump that goes over the timing cover. Also the alternator on the TBI 4.3 is top driver's side... If you've looked at a TBI SBC you'll recognize the 4.3 instantly...it's the 350 with 2 cylinders lopped off.

Glad my input led you to the problem :thumbsup: . The output from the auto TPS and manual TPS are the same and it will bolt right up to the throttle body. I had to remove the air intake tube (rubber piece from airbox) to install & properly set the TPS (didn't need to do this with the manual). I'd also cap the TCU output plug (square 4 wire) so it's waterproof. But, as you mentioned, the auto TPS is a he&& of a lot cheaper...

Replace the TPS and readjust. Maura (my old '90) would eat a TPS about 1X/yr but the initial diagnosis was difficult as the TPS voltage was always correct. A manual trans TPS is tough to find in the jy but the auto trans TPS will work as well. I always kept at least 1 spare on hand...

Update on Georgia's popping in the front end. I'm hesitant to say I completely fixed it but she hasn't made any popping/clunking noises in 24 hrs :banana: I found 3 different issues: 1. Tie rod boot on driver's side was broken and the grease was gone. The TRE casting would periodically hit the steering knuckle. New polyurethane boots (and a thorough flushing of the joint with grease) took care of that. (more clunking than pop but quite loud) 2. Scary looking ball joints. (popping on expansion joints, uneven driveways, etc) 3. Defective track bar :doh: . That was one of the first things I changed but the bushing was C*&^. (popping on turns, start/stop)

The track bar frame bracket was pretty tight (got 1/8 turn on 1 of 4 bolts) but the bushing on my 3 or 4 month old track bar was shot. FYI for anyone considering the "Driveworks" (Advance) track bar. Replaced it with a Moog and so far, so good.

Use a decent quality 12 point socket that's as close to E12 as you can find, then use an extension and BFH to drive it on the Torx head. If you're lucky there will be enough to let you loosen the bolt. The other alternative is a Dremel and that's miserable :ack:

Good point. She's going for a lifetime alignment recheck tomorrow but I'll pull the airbox and check the track bar bracket later this week. Out of curiosity what are the differences in track bars between years? Meg (the old '87) and Maura ('90) used one P/N but Georgia ('92) uses a different P/N. Are they all interchangeable?

Scary looking ball joint :ack: . I was originally worried that the upper pass ball joint wasn't 100% seated but, looking at the old ball joint, it appears part of it had a small gap on the top of the knuckle too (0.005" on one side, flush on the other). Must be machining variance in the axle.

When I replaced the track bar both the old one & the new one seemed tight in the bracket. Were you able to wiggle the end of the track bar by hand or did it require a pry bar to check? I suppose the bracket itself could have loosened up. What's the bracket interchange: 84-01 XJ? I can add that to my shopping list.

Did some additional searching and found this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1089852 Advance lists: '92 XJ/MJ DS1238 '97ZJ V8: DS 1310 It appears the drag links aren't the same but neither are the tie rods. If the ZJ one is a direct fit but a bit beefier that's fine. If it causes geometry issues as suggested by the NAXJA thread then I need to stick with an XJ as a donor.