1987Comanche

Yes, absolutely certain they are both 3.07s. It was hard to find a front D30 from an AX-15 equipped XJ but I cross checked axle tag numbers, T-case shift linkage P/Ns, and physically saw the donor XJ to be sure. The external axle tags were on both the donor D30 and Georgia's D35 and I verified the information stamped on the ring gear for both axles when I dropped the cover to service each one.

Excellent idea. What do you think excessive would be? Greater than say 10 degrees? Found this while researching. Interesting read regarding chain wrap: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/36971-what-could-causing-loud-clunking-noise.html

I finished converting Georgia to 4WD (yes I need to update my build thread), using the 3.07 front axle, external slip yoke NP231J, linkage, and front d/s out of a '96 XJ with 123K miles. The front axle was rebuilt with new: side gears & spider gears, upper & lower ball joints, axle shaft U joints, wheel bearings, and control arm bushings. I also replaced all 3 u joints in the front driveshaft. I did a functional test on the transfer case at the jy and it shifted easily and performed appropriately when shifted/input shaft spun by hand. It had very little fluid but I assume the jy drained the t-case. This past week was the first time I've used the 4WD extensively and the first 1/2 mile of driving on a snow covered went fine. Suddenly I experienced a loud popping/grinding noise and vibration. I pulled over, went back to 2HI, and drove for a mile or so. Everything was ok so I went back to 4HI. Within a 1/2 mile it started again. I left her in 2HI and slid the rest of the way home. There was no black pavement in sight on the entire drive...it was all snow so binding shouldn't have been an issue. The noise sounded almost exactly like this: I think the issue is in the transfer case, specifically I think the chain stretched out. How can I troubleshoot/prove this theory? I think the fact that I can drive in 2HI @ 75 MPH with no NVH issues exhonorates both the front driveshaft and the axle, leaving the linkage and the T-case. I'm familiar with the noise a T-case makes when not fully in 4WD as Maura's linkage bushings were shot and it would always take a few tries to get her into 4WD.

You can start off by a$$uming the HO dizzy is indexed correctly but you'll need to verify it after installation. The quick & dirty way is to pull the #1 plug and bump the engine over while putting your thumb over the #1 plug hole. You should feel air puffing out as you come up to TDC. If the balancer/timing cover marks line up, you felt air pushing against your thumb, and the rotor points at the #1 terminal you're good to go.

If you have a pull-a-part nearby it might be worth walking around to see what they have. I saw a 134K miles '95 or '96 that had been hit in the back. Any engine from the jy is a bit of a gamble but, had I needed a motor at the time, I would have grabbed it. If nothing else you can pull a good, rebuildable core. I think LKQ charges $300 or so for one. We pulled a good donor for OneOverZero out of an XJ and he had it rebuilt locally.

DO NOT buy an ATK reman engine (sold by Advance, Auto Zone, NAPA, etc)!!! They are remanned in Monterrey, Mexico and are absolute junk! I put an ATK engine in Maura and it lasted 282 miles before it started puking up cam bearings. Never again!!!

On the '96 D30 I picked up replacing the inner seals would require removing the R&P. 1 piece axle shafts though so not sure if it applies to all years.

Looks pretty solid: http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/4876003463.html

I knew I had covered this at one point :D http://comancheclub.com/topic/23252-auxiliary-fan-does-not-turn-on-with-ac/?hl=1987comanche&do=findComment&comment=243223

If you had HD cooling but no A/C the truck would have had the aux electric fan. Retrofitting one is fairly straightforward...I did it to Maura. There's a write-up here somewhere but basically the only difference between A/C and non-A/C wiring is the use of a diode so the "on" signal can't be back fed.

That trans has to come back out. He used the HO flywheel. Pg 1 of Maura's build has an excellent pic of the Renix flywheel. I took it after the flywheel was machined but before I put the clutch on it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/27930-my-1990-and-some-pics-of-the-old-87/page-1 Pg 2 of Georgia's build has a good pic of the HO flywheel and clutch assy. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-2

Makes me wonder what flywheel is in the truck, Renix or HO. If you pull the CPS and rubber plug out of the bell housing you should be able to tell which one. If I remember correctly Renix CPS tone ring has a lot of teeth and HO tone ring is smooth with machined pockets for the CPS to pick up. If he didn't know the CPS needed to be changed I'm betting it has the HO flywheel. You'll have to pull the engine or trans to put the correct one in.

Pg 4 of Georgia's build thread has a photo of the external master/slave assy with the plastic line. It's laying next to the external slave 4WD trans I picked up. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-4

For some reason he left that internal to external slave conversion 85% finished and walked away. From where you are it's quite easy to finish up. You need the plastic hard line that runs from master to slave and a master cyl that's compatible with the hard plastic line. The master is easy to find but the hard line is used only as far as I know. I have a spare external slave setup squirreled away for a rainy day. PM me if you need more info.

I tried everything on Maura's oil pan. I ended up having to slowly work a screwdriver in between the pan & block on the pass side and physically hang on the screwdriver to get the pan free. It wasn't pretty and I had to rework the gasket lip on the pan after it came free. Considering how much the thing leaked you'd think it would have fallen right off...

It cost me $100 to have a d/s shortened & rebalanced. Quote to build from scratch was $275. If you have the yokes a new stick should only be $75 or so. I think $200 is reasonable for new d/s using existing yokes.

This ever happen to anyone else? It sure surprised me. Around 3 or 4 this afternoon the door bell rings. I answered it and a guy with a square body Cummins Ram is on the front porch asking about Georgia. Apparently he has a relative in the neighborhood and has been watching Georgia for a while. He asks me if I've ever considered selling her. My response was no but you can always make me an offer. I opened Georgia up, started her up, and told him what I'd invested in parts (i.e. wouldn't even consider an offer below $xxxx). He ended up not making a compelling offer and then asked me what ever happened to the white one (Maura). Told him I sold her about 2 yrs ago. Not sure if I should be flattered or a bit scared. I guess my MJ attracts more attention than I thought...

Getting something with a title is probably the best move. If you ultimately decide to put it on the road you at least have the option. I've seen a lot of nice cars cut up/parted out because they had no paperwork. "R" titled vehicles (reconstructed or salvage) would probably work for you. They're usually cheaper than something with a clean title but still have a paper trail. What does MOT inspection consist of? Is there an initial inspection and then an annual/biannual inspection? The UK MOT inspection is a real PITA from what I understand. Also what region are you planning to look in?

There are a few different ways to obtain a title for a vehicle in the states. -If the registered owner loses the title they can apply to the DMV for a duplicate title which, while time consuming, isn't a big deal. -The "lost title" ads usually means someone other than the last registered owner has the truck. It becomes more difficult to obtain a title b/c you have to backtrack to the last person who had a title and get them to provide a duplicate. If they're willing to do this for you (odds of success are generally low) you can take the signed title directly to the DMV and register the truck (called jumping the title). This tends to vary by state. GA, for example, didn't issue titles until the early 80s so an older car can be registered with a bill of sale only. Other states may give you a bonded title or issue a state VIN and give you a title against that. -If a mechanic or shop has the vehicle without a title they can apply for a mechanic's lien (i.e. the guy stiffed me and didn't pay the bill). This is fairly straightforward. Towing companies can do the same thing with abandoned vehicles they pick up. Really the question is this: what would you need to get a non-running project vehicle across the border and/or registered with the MOT? I'm curious for a few reasons, mostly b/c Becky Sue (my totaled '65 Olds) was sold via the auto auction to someone in Granby, QC. If the MOT isn't picky and the VIN search shows the vehicle isn't stolen I'd think a bill of sale would suffice. Also the intelligence of the person at the state DMV plays a bit role in success/failure. I sold Maura to Biotex and NC sent me a tax bill for her the following year. I had turned in the plate and was surprised they still tried to bill me. The DMV told me I was still the registered owner b/c she hadn't shown up registered elsewhere in the state. I pointed out that the world didn't end at the state line. I ended up having to send them a copy of the bill of sale so as to prove I didn't still own her...idiots.

Not sure how you end up with a hole in the windshield like that but the body looks ok: http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4813509342.html

A homely looking thing to be sure but, being from GA, the body is probably pretty solid. Not sure what possessed them when they decided to put a rear bumper on the front. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/4764915825.html

The 96 XJ booster was a direct plug & play in my '92, no drilling, relocation, etc. I'd think it would be the same in any of the HO trucks. The only necessary fab work was bending some brake lines.

I put a '96 XJ booster and matching XJ/ZJ master cylinder in Georgia my '92 when I got her. I'm 90%+ sure the older M/C isn't a direct bolt-on or, at least, it didn't appear to be when I removed my leaky one. Placed side by side there are a fair amount of differences.

Grab the clutch master, external slave, and hard line as one assembly from the donor. According to Mopar you can't replace individual components but, if you're careful, you can drive out the roll pin and separate both the master and slave from the hard line. Picked up mine at U-pull-it complete for $25. A lot cheaper than $180 new, even if you do have to throw a $60 master cylinder on it. I'd grab at least the rear driveshaft too. The NP231 on the '98 is external slip yoke and you have an internal slip yoke. You won't have to open the NP231 to swap anything though I'd check d/s length prior to installation to make sure it's right. I'd guess you'll need to cut about 2" off the d/s but again, that's just a guess... If you're going to go all the way you may also want to consider grabbing the front axle out of the '98 & save it for later. You'll have the desirable '96-99 setup with the bigger u joints and will be able to dump the vacuum disconnect in your current axle. The good 3.07 Dana 30s are worth saving.

I'm having the same issue with Georgia ('92) again right now. I fought through it about 15K miles ago when I first got her on the road. I ended up replacing everything that rotates with the serpentine belt and tried 3 different brands of belt: Dayco, Gates, and the Gatorback. The Dayco started squealing after a few days, the Gates lasted about 2 weeks, and the Gatorback solved the problem for 14K miles or so. I actually just ordered another one as she started squealing again this week. I'm hoping that it will do the trick again this time too. While it didn't work on the MJ I did solve another chirping/squealing serpentine belt by breaking the glaze on the water pump pulley with 400 grit sandpaper. It's quick & cheap so it might be worth a try.