1987Comanche

This makes sense. I would imagine they recut it so it would harder to mess up during install. A guy at work has an '01 so perhaps I can look under his hood and see if it's the same.

The HO T-stat housing has a sensor that makes an excellent bleeder screw and is a direct bolt on for Renix trucks. I did this when I changed the T-stat and never had to pull the coolant temp sender out of the head. If another T-stat housing isn't an option then pull the sending unit from the head but be careful...they can snap off sometimes.

This isn't strictly MJ related as it's for a 2000 XJ but it is 4L so I figured it's close enough. My friend's 2000 has had mysterious coolant loss since he purchased it and I figured it was the 0331 cyl head casting. He had a few other issues so he brought it by and, in the process of digging around the engine bay I discovered that the thing has the wrong water pump gasket! You can clearly see an unused bolt hole in the gasket at the 2 o'clock position and you can also see that the top bolt has no gasket above the bolt. I suppose it's also possible the gasket was not clocked correctly with respect to the water pump but, from what I can see, it looks like the wrong gasket. Was Toledo really this bad?? :nuts:

Hmmmmm... makes me wonder why mine violently rejected the injector transplant. It did exactly what you described until I put the old injectors back in. :dunno:

I think you cooked the injector quad drivers in the ECU. I tried the same transplant in my '90 4.0 and it acted exactly as you described. I only drove it about 1 mile and swapped the OE injectors back in. At this point you probably need a new ECU to transplant with the injectors.

Anybody?? Should I move this to tech?

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Junkyard. I pulled XJ carpet for my truck and it's a reasonably close fit. I had to cut it down but for $8 I could live with that.

What about the cable from the alternator to the starter solenoid (assuming Renix era)?

Bad bushings? The bushings on my '87 were shot and the bar moved so much it actually broke the end link clean off the sway bar.

Pull the starter, jam a flat blade screwdriver between the flywheel and bellhousing and pull the HB nut out of the crank.

Is the printed mylar circuit board on the back of the cluster torn, scratched, etc? Check closely, espec where the connectors plug into the cluster.

My '87 4 banger did crazy stuff like that when the starter was going out. Wiggling the cables, etc would sometimes help but it was random and drove me nuts until I figured it out.

If you do it yourself you'll need to wedge a combination wrench on the firewall in the engine compt. to hold the nut while you loosen the bolt from inside the cab. There's one stud and one nut/bolt combination (at least it isn't Torx!). I bled with a vacuum bleeder and it works fine. I think it took 2-3 hrs total.

Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll snap a few pics for you. Maybe you can post them here as well (photobucket isn't playing nice with my computer). To your other questions: Yes the cap and the fact that the overflow tank is vented to the atmosphere. Correct. There shouldn't be any special procedures but I had to pull my HO t-stat housing temp sensor/bleeder screw a few times to get all the air out.

Dump the closed bottle, rats nest of hoses, & heater control valve and replace with an S-10 overflow bottle. You can modify the closed system bracket to fit the S-10 bottle and it fits great. You also don't need to buy XJ hoses at the dealer. Standard hoses covered with plastic conduit work just fine. I also added an HO thermostat housing so I could use the temp sensor as a bleeder screw. I did this 6 months ago and it works fine. If you'd like pics let me know.

If it suddenly started acting up odds are the timing/dist indexing is correct. You can hook the 2.5 to a scan tool but it doesn't tell you much beyond what you can check with a multimeter (and the computer has no memory). A fuel delivery problem sounds more likely. My '87 2.5 had a few contributing issues that caused a similar problem. My OE fuel pump was starting to go though you could have a clogged regulator/injector/injector passage as well. Also just because you picked up a Reman injector doesn't mean it's any good. I've had a bunch of bad reman parts over the years. If you need other parts I have a spare 2.5 TBI minus the IAC. Just let me know.

Unfortunately it doesn't surprise me. It was probably the same genius who specified a vertical mount oil filter on the Renix 4.0s. Just bear in mind the copper doesn't need to be loaded with green corrosion to not work. Mine were all the color of a used penny until I scraped them...then they had the bright copper color.

A small screwdriver and some fine grit sandpaper work pretty well for cleaning the wheel, and yes corrosion of the copper is the reason they stop working. When I worked on mine I used an extra connector and a 12V battery at the kitchen table. Sand/scrape, stop to test and see if it works, repeat until it lights up. Once you do get it to work I wouldn't rotate them out of position. They can be hard to get working again. If you have the courtesy lights to add under the dash it's a good way to verify the door switches work. Open the door & under dash lights come on, the switch is good. Since you said you have voltage at the connector the switches are probably ok

When mine had the no start issue I replaced the coil/module with a jy one ($30 vs $150). It didn't make a difference but I was only out $30. If you look for a module find one with the P/N ending in C. It was the last rev.

M/T or Auto? So far I've had a bad CPS, TPS, and IAC. Any (or all) could cause your problem.

If you end up needing 2.5 TBI parts I have the complete throttle body minus the Idle Speed Controller.

All the fabric came unglued and the PO used about 100 staples to hold it up. The fabric itself is filthy and has resisted all attempts to glue it back in place. I've tried peeling the fabric from the edges and sticking the headliner adhesive nozzle between headliner and backing but it won't hold. I guess the backing itself is in ok shape but I'm not sure. It sounds like the XJ headliner is a waste of time so I won't pursue it. Is there a writeup on posting pics? I should put a few pics of the old and new MJs one of these days.

Has anyone tried cutting down an XJ headliner to fit their Comanche? The headliner on the '90 is in pretty bad shape and it seems like the XJ headliner should work (I've cut the chrome drip rail trim down to fit). The only question is the curvature on the back of the headliner. Perhaps using the rear portion (cargo area) of the XJ headliner would work best. Thoughts?

There's a pot in the tach. Pull the tach from the cluster and you can carefully adjust it with a screwdriver. FYI the Red/White/Black cluster pictured is called the Highline Cluster.