1987Comanche

I picked up a lot of great stuff at the JY yesterday and I'm looking through everything this morning. One of the items I grabbed is the wiring that contains the relay, diode, fan connector, & temp switch connector for the aux cooling fan. I was looking through the FSM and it looks like I'd cut the diode out for a non A/C vehicle and splice the orange wire to the gray/blk tracer wire instead. This would directly connect the temp switch to the relay. Then I'd only need 2 inputs: Yellow (key on power), & red (constant power). 1990 mj 4.0 ax-15. Correct?

Harry's U Pull It in Hazleton. www.wegotused.com That place is huge

I'm doing the same thing tomorrow morning and have been collecting info all week: DD upgrade Thread ?viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21613&p=222891&hilit=DD+upgrades#p222891 You going to Harry's?

The DD upgrade thread I started: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21613&p=222891&hilit=DD+upgrades#p222891

Do I need the end links too or will the stock MJ/XJ ones work? Good call. I'll check it out. Also, provided I can't find a 4 cyl XJ/MJ what is the best choice for an open cooling system overflow bottle? My old bottle is rigged to provide that right now (drilled a hole in the cap and threaded a hose through it).

What's different about the '97+ door seals? I do have a bit of water leakage so that might help. V8 ZJ front swaybar is a direct bolt-in? What year range are the donor vehicles? She did come from the factory with the tilt column so I'm good there. I did read about the WJ brake booster upgrade. My brakes seem to work ok so I'll prob hold that one until I have to replace either the M/C or booster. Newer mirrors are a good idea. I have the towing mirrors and they vibrate so much at speed that I can't see anything...

The '87 has been gone for a few months but before she left she I transferred all the upgrades I did to her to the new '90. I'm heading to the jy this weekend and am trying to figure out what else I can get. The truck is my DD (Renix 4.0, AX-15, NP231, D35, D30)and logs about 50 interstate miles every day. I'm ok with the bench seat, no A/C, & crank windows. I'm going for comfort and reliability more than anything else. The truck came with delay wipers and a rear slider. Here's a list of what I've upgraded/added so far: 1. OE Foglights. 2. Dual tone horn. 3. 130 Amp alternator, 4. '96 Valve cover (blowby), 5. High vol oil pump, 6. Open Cooling system (still need a good overflow bottle...suggestions?), 7. Horizontal mount, std thread oil filter adapter 8. Epoxied seams on Deka injectors (Mustang injector transplant went bad), 9. Turbine style AL wheels, 10. CAD locked, 11. Bedliner, 12. Laredo door panels w/ pockets 13. In dash tweeters, 14. Stereo (radio delete from the factory) 15. Under dash courtesy lights, 16. Headlight delay module, 17. OE Clock, 18. Highline Gauge cluster, 19. Leather 3 spoke steering wheel. So what else am I forgetting?? My only thoughts were a cup holder of some kind (what works with the bench?), overhead console, better carpet, & the headlight on buzzer.

Does anyone have a pic of the switch behind the batt box? Mine is stuck on too and I'll either disconnect the switch or pull the bulb from the cluster. CAD is already locked.

Correct: Adding the 2nd horn (high tone if I remember correctly) is a super easy upgrade.

The top one is for the horn (assuming you have a single tone instead of dual tone).

When you purchased the O-ring kit did you get both black & brown O-rings? I'm planning to put in the mustang 19lb injectors I purchased and they have brown O-rings on both the rail and intake side. The OE ones have black on the rail and brown on the intake and the black ones seem to be about 0.040" smaller. The mustang injector OD is about 0.004" smaller where the O ring for the rail goes.

Double lip seal??? You peaked my interest. Do you have a Part # and supplier? I'd like to only do this one more time...

1. Grab the HO thermostat housing for your Renix era 4.0. The CTS makes a great bleeder screw. 2. Get the Renix era 2.5 idle speed controller and fuel injector if you have a chance. Either of these parts is ridiculously expensive if you have to buy it new.

I think the most likely culprit is a nicked seal. The OE RMS was incredibly difficult to remove and the replacement required some tapping to get into place. I'd guess that, if I have to do it again, it will come out a lot easier. Also the OE seal was extremely brittle when it came out. Did you find them easier to remove after the OE one came out?

I added the '96 VC in an attempt to get the CCV system sorted out. I used the black Felpro gasket and the gasket & JY VC together cost the same as the blue Felpro gasket for the cast AL VC. I didn't have any extra vacuum lines..just changed the fitting on the intake to accomodate the new CCV line and spliced the plastic tubing to hook it up to the air cleaner. I'll check the back of the valve cover but, unfortunately I'm pretty sure it's the RMS again, I did have to hook the vent line back up to the air cleaner. It jacked the crankcase pressure up and she dumped nearly 1QT oil in 80 miles. interestingly enough the oil pressure gauge read 10PSI higher than normal during this time period. Instead of the normal puddle under the truck I had a slick! I suppose the air filter will be permanently oil soaked. Pete: What did you do differently on the 5th try that made it work?

It's a Mopar replacement (field service) computer for an 87-90 4.0 Renix M/T truck (my truck is a '90). It's referenced in a TSB I found on Alldata 18-54-89 Rev A, Dated 12/23/89.

I've been working on the '90 as much as time allows (it goes to work 5X/week) and I've managed to fix 3 of my 4 fluid leaks (radiator, clutch master cylinder, gas tank). The 4th one, for some reason, has decided to be stubborn. My Renix 4.0 was leaking oil profusely when I got her and I had to drop the pan to clean the carbon out of it. While I was there she got a high vol oil pump, new rear main, and new oil pan gasket. The amount of oil leaking remained roughly the same. Fast forward 2 months...I've finally given up on my attempts to make the CCV system function properly and routed the front hose (on a '96 valve cover) to a catch can. When I purchased my '87 2.5MJ she bled oil profusely and 90% of the problem turned out to be the PCV system (motor was out of an '86). Here's the question: Is it worth going back in to do the rear main & oil pan gasket again? When I park I end up with at least a 5" X 7" size puddle of oil that looks like it's coming from the rear main. If the CCV system is at fault and the 4.0 behaves like the 2.5 then it will be a wasted effort because the crank case pressure is too high. For reference I loose about 1/2 quart between fill ups (200-225 miles).

Does anyone have a Renix computer (53007843) laying around? If so let me know. Thanks.

Here's the info for the stock 100amp alternator. Mounting position should be helpful: 601-414D |A| thru |D| interchange; difference is clock position. D ----------- CH $118 Ident: 1101167 100 amp.; CS-130 series, "I" style case, 1 o'clock position.

It was 2 bottles but one was already open...it may have been closer to 2.5 pints. Either way the thing was empty. This morning was the first trip on the interstate since locking the front axle. I have a new vibration that is quite pronounced at 60MPH +. Around 65 the turn signal stalk vibrates like crazy and you can feel it both through the wheel and floorpans. I'm thinking front driveshaft U joints? Figure that's the only thing that started moving that was essentially stationary before.

In a way I'm glad water in the D30 is common. My assumption was that the PO wheeled it and soaked the diff and I suppose that's still possible. The diff cover is sealed with RTV so I'm assuming that it's factory. I was the first person to crack open the D35, even though the PO swapped it from an '87 (honestly who swapps a diff and doesn't even bother to open it up first?). The D30 was nearly 2 quarts low when I got the truck...I'll add dropping the cover and checking everything out to my list.

I finished this up (along with a new rad) yesterday and the 4WD light works fine although it takes a few minutes to go out. On my truck blue was a vent line, green was 2WD, and I connected white & yellow together (4WD and 4WD indicator switch). One odd question though: When I pulled the CAD I fully expected to lose some gear oil. What I didn't expect was gray gear oil??? I didn't see any metal in it and water in it would make chocolate milkshake, correct?

I'm going to lock the RH axle disconnect tomorrow (it's snowing like crazy, seems like the perfect time to do it) and I'd like to keep the 4WD indicator functional if possible. I have a '90 4.0, AX-15, NP231, D30 Disco (obviously). Looking at the diagrams in the FSM it looks like I could simply connect the 4WD vacuum line to the 4WD switch on the transfer case. Correct?????

'86 has PCV. '87 has CCV. Not sure about the other Renix years. My old '87 had a motor from an '86.

How can you tell if the tank vents are actually working? On my old '87 I rarely had any type of hissing when I opened the gas cap. The '90 has so much pressure that it hisses as soon as I put the key in the gas cap (haven't even turned it yet). It hasn't been above 55 degrees yet which makes me wonder what will happen when it gets warm. The tank is new but the check valves are OE. I checked the system yesterday. I can apply 15" vacuum and it will hold and not leak down at all. Also if I open the gas cap with 15" vacuum on the evap line it doesn't change.