1987Comanche

Welcome! Any pics of the '91? I did a 4X4 conversion on Georgia, my '92. Info starts on the bottom of pg 4 http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-4 I'm sure someone else can chime in with lift options.

The MT2500 will talk to Renix with the right personality key, cable, and cartridge. It's actually a very solid & capable scanner though it can't graph like a Solus. It's been a few years since I hooked one up to a Renix so I don't remember the exact P/Ns for key, cable, & cartridge off the top of my head. The base units are all the same so buy based on condition. As JH4020 mentioned the software can be acquired separately from the scanner.

FYI here's an inside view of ATK quality:

Sounds like a few different things going on. Does the temp gauge only creep up when the truck is idling or moving slowly? If so you may have a bad fan clutch on the mechanical fan. T-stat may be hanging up as YXMJ suggested. Are you sure the gauge is accurate? If you can buy/borrow an infrared thermometer you can pop the hood and confirm the accuracy of the gauge (my Harbor Freight one was under $30). Shoot the T-stat housing then upper and lower rad hoses. The oil press gauge bouncing erratically does sound like a bad sender. They're easy/cheap enough to replace so that's easy to try. Hot idle oil pressure of 25psi is great assuming the gauge is accurate. If you can borrow a mechanical oil pressure gauge you can verify OP when you change the sender. Perfect time to do so as you'll have the sender out already. Do you know if the lower rad hose still has an anti-collapse spring inside? A lot of people don't swap them from hose to hose and the hose sucking shut can cause odd symptoms.

Mopar went to the external slip yoke NP 231 in '96. T-case # 52099212. I did a lot of research on this before converting Georgia to 4WD and used the 9212 T-case.

I took Georgia on a good road trip today: 507 miles to be exact. I left at 4:30AM and met a friend in Durham (4 hrs 1 way) to hit a few junkyards. She ran like a champ, gave 19.5-20.6 mpg on the trip, and the odo rolled 272K on the way :). The only issue was that the oil pressure gauge started wiggling erratically from 50psi-80+psi so I need a new sending unit. No complaints here though . :MJ 1: .

I've seen reman boxes cause more problems than they've solved. FWIW the Saginaw box is an excellent design and is hard (but not impossible) to kill. I recently upgraded the steering box in my '69 Cutlass and put in a jy fresh ZJ steering box (OE for an A body is 17.5:1, ZJ is 12.7:1). I figured my odds were with better going used, provided I chose the correct donor.

Glad someone on the forum picked it up :banana:

Looks solid in the pics. If the body is rust free is a heck of a deal. If I was looking for another one to build I'd scoop it up. Hope someone can use it. http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/5309570843.html

Pray that the Mexicans that cobbled the engine together did a better job on your engine than they did on mine. My cam bearings lasted a whopping 282 miles. Have you purchased it yet? If not maybe you can find something better. FYI ATK's customer service is crap. If you want to see what "quality by ATK means" here's the link to Maura's build page: http://comancheclub.com/topic/27930-my-1990-and-some-pics-of-the-old-87/page-2

Getting ready for winter and went back to keep a few promises I made Georgia. Changed the oil in the junkyard 4WD AX-15, replaced the OEM fuel hoses at the tank, and replaced the nasty ends on the battery cables. I knew some of these items weren't in the greatest of shape but I hadn't realized how bad the fuel hoses were: Sectioned it to see how far the hole on the return line went. Yep, all the way through. Somehow it wasn't leaking but still, not good: Some fresh 30R9:

Does the BA use the same clutch kit as an internal slave AX-15? The internal and external slave AX-15s use the same Lucas master. When Georgia was 2WD and had the internal slave AX-15 I lost the master and bought a new one. When I converted her to external slave 4WD I used that master in conjunction with the slave and plastic hydraulic line that came out of the donor. P/N matched and I have about 10K miles on the conversion. The box showing the P/N is on my build thread if you need it. Good to see you got your external slave AX-15 :thumbsup:

Do NOT even consider an ATK reman engine. Hecho en Mexico= pure junk. I put one in Maura, my 1990, It lasted 282 miles until it started spitting up cam bearings. To say I was not amused would be a vast understatement. FYI all the big box parts stores (Advance, Auto Zone, NAPA, etc) carry ATK under a variety of names. Your best bet is probably the local machine shop. As they aren't half a world away you can appear on their door step if the need arises. That tends to help.

Looks rough but if it's cheap enough it might be worthwhile. Someone should snag the VIN for the registry: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Pioneer-Standard-Cab-Pickup-2-Door-/161843889865?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25aea5c6c9&item=161843889865

0.005" is asking a lot of the HG. I'd drop it off at the machine shop for a pressure test and a skim cut to clean it up. Have them pull vacuum on the valves too to make sure they're sealing. I'm not a big Toyota guy but, in general 0.002-0.0025" is about as much warpage as you can handle with an AL cyl head.

Glad I was able to point you in the right direction :thumbsup:

Are you sure the head gasket is ok? The low compression readings on 2 adjacent cylinders make me wonder. You can pick up a cooling system pressure tester at O'reilly's (loaner tool) and see if the system holds pressure. Might be worth getting a few test strips to check the coolant for exhaust gas as well.

You should hit Pull-a-Part and see if you can score some low mile or recently replaced components. Auto and manual components are the same so you have a wide interchange. Who knows, someone might have spent $$ on a front end rebuild and subsequently blew the motor or got rear ended. If you go new stay away from Advance Auto Driveworks suspension parts. They're trouble.

Yes. All the UCA bushings are the same regardless of location

Pg 5 of my build thread has a decent write-up of disassembly/reassembly of a D30. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37173-georgia-92-40-ho-ax-15-2wd/page-5

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5218993214.html

I've run 10W-30 synthetic and one bottle of Lucas Trans treatment in all 3 of my AX-15s and they all seemed to like it. The overall dirtiness of the trans (and the bullet hole) are worrisome though. The output shaft is both dirty and kind of dry. Did the trans sit outside at all?

Picked up a set of Laredo door panels at the jy and installed them. They cleaned up nicely: Also picked up a complete spare AX-15/NP231 shift linkage in the event I still have issues with mine. So far I've discovered that the handle and one of the links had been bent by the jy that pulled the front axle, T-case, linkage, etc. Somehow this morphed into pulling the external slave AX-15 from the donor. I was so far into it by the time I got the linkage out I couldn't bear to leave it behind:

Thanks :yes: . The 4WD conversion was pretty straightforward, other than needing to have a rear driveshaft fabricated. It's definitely something you want to tackle in stages, versus doing all at once. The hardest part of the project for me was rebuilding the 3.07 D30 front axle. It had been laying in the mud and fought me at every turn. Once it was ready, physically transplanting the axle took one night. I think the most difficult part is planning everything out and determining which parts you need/want for your build. I relied heavily on the XJ factory parts manual and determined that I wanted an external slave AX-15, 96-99 non ABS front axle, and an external slip yoke NP231. That builds the best of breed IMO.

Made a jig so I could put a BOP TH350 on my engine stand and flip it around as needed for tear down & rebuild. Works great!