Comanchemodder

After successfully getting my signals working from following the points on this thread, I feel I need to add one more detail. After cleaning all contacts, installing dedicated grounds, refreshing existing grounds, I was able to diagnose why the passenger side was extremely dim vs the driver side on my truck: 2057 bulbs are asymmetric with one filament approx 5 ohms and the other filament approx 1.2 ohms. I had replaced my sockets with new sockets from Morris 4x4. They had two black leads and a white ground. Make sure the correct lead wire is matched up with the signal circuit. You have 50/50 chance to get it right and I got it wrong. The higher ohm filament on the 2057 bulb, when matched with the signal circuit will result in very dim blinker. If your blinker is really dim or non-existent (with lights on), switch the wires. It may just fix it.

I am always amazed when such bad quality pictures are used to sell an item of decent value. They don't have the extra 5minutes to post a decent picture?

I actually disagree with this point. Outside air is drawn in. Even if the outside air is 100%RH (non-condensing water at that specific temp). It is heated up to 90+ deg F and approx 10% RH., If the wind shield is the same temp as the outside where the air came from, it will not condense since the wind shield temp is above the dew point of the air. Exhaled air is what typically is deposited on the wind shield since the dew point of exhaled air is quite high.

I am on-board with everything you described. However, the point I quoted above highlights my original comment. The outside air is heated thereby lowering the RH relative to the outside air (since water is not added to the air in the heater core). This air is then forced onto the wind shield and will defrost since it is both heated and low RH. You pointed out something all us cold blooded guys have had to do: wait for the engine to warm up and either hold our breath or open the window (I would usually exhale into my unzipped coat). By opening the window, the cab air remains at the same RH as the outside air and therefore no condensation on the wind shield (unless you blow on it with warm, high RH breath) since wind shield is the same temperature as the outside air (since no heat yet). I agree if someone turned on the a/c it will lower the RH, but I think the effect is so minimal in a defrost situation (since the heat in combination with outside air is already doing most of the heavy lifting), it would not drive auto engineers to implement such a feature. My feeling it was something else. But I could be wrong. EDIT: I just ran quick conversion for RH: Assuming a cold wet day At 30 def F and 100% RH, if the air is heated (with no water added) it will result in a RH of ~10% at 100 deg F (defrost temp?).

I do apologize if I offended anyone on this board in regards to their expertise on Jeeps. That was not my intent. I do believe the a/c turns on when defrost is used as pointed out in this thread. This is not peoples imagination. My issue is why the system was engineered that way. I have heard a couple of theories: 1) To cycle the a/c compressor in the off season - these seems reasonable and seems like a good reason the system turns on. Perhaps automotive companies had a lot of warranty claims on A/C compressors and found the off-season was a potential cause? 2) To reduce the humidity during a defrost cycle. This is the reason I find sketchy. I reasoned it out and I can't seem to get there on how it would increase defrost effectiveness. But I am open to anyone who can give an explanation. Assuming outside air is used on defrost, the need to de-humidify the air would be marginal at best. Outside air, drawn into the heater core is heated without a change in absolute humidity (amount of water vapour constant since water is not introduced). As a result heated air forced onto the wind shield inside the cab has a much lower RH than the surrounding air of the cab. Only in that short period when the engine heat is cold (not warmed up yet) would the defrost be blowing unheated air on the wind shield. Since the wind shield is not heated and equal to outside air temp, the defrost air will not condense onto it. In that case, if there was any residual condensate already on the wind shield (from heavy occupant breathers), air may not be able to defrost the wind shield. Obviously, if inside air (recirculated air) is used, it would be like a rain shower. But with all that said, I may be missing something obvious.

I'm not saying BS on the a/c before heat, but it's darn close. I grew up, in fact I bet most here, grew up witH a dad too cheap to buy a/c in his cars. The heat in the winter worked just fine and any noticeable "condensate" was negligible. Typically in winter RH is low anyway, so a/c the air before won't do much. In Minnesota a guy doesn't turn the heat on until the temp is far below the A/c temp. I'm sure there are lots of charts and graphs and no doubt I expect to be flamed, but heat worked just fine with out A/c pre-charge thank you very much. Now, if some people need heat when it's above 35 deg, well then you can't be helped! Lol.

WOOT! New Jeep, here I come!! BTW the 4runner requires removal of the skid-plate. A different skid plate than the one which needs to be removed to drain the oil.

Actually I am pretty sure that is for a taxi service... BTW, I sent $10 today.

Its all well and good. But I will stick with my '87 MJ. I changed the oil in my Wife's 2012 4Runner for the first time this weekend (no more free dealer changes). I was introduced to the new oil filter style which just changes the element. I tried to figure out the rationale on going away from the canister style; i'm sure there are many, but easy of change was not one of them. That sealed the deal for me: No vehicles newer than '87 for myself....

Is this it on e-bay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Other-custom-1981-jeep-j-20-custom-extended-cab-4-x-4-401-engine-rare-make-offer-/111215620802?forcerrptr=true&hash=item19e4f7b2c2&item=111215620802&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

I am intrigued about the jeepair wrangler kit. I am starting from scratch trying to get mine working. I have an existing evaporator in my truck but Ive removed everything else in prep for a fresh rebuild. If I can get confirmation my existing evaporator threads will fit this kit, I'm going for it. http://jeepair.com/hose-kits/91-95-wrangler-hose-kit-with-compressor-fittings.html

Any update on these? Thanks.

From the "Jeep Engines 3rd Edition" (P5007161), P276, 4.0L engine: pan bolts (1/4-20): 7 ft.lb pan bolts (5/16-18): 11 ft.lb Pan cover bolts: 70 in.lb EDIT: Not sure if the one-piece pan gasket requires different torque.

A little clarification on using the voltmeter: 1) If the alternator is not working, the voltmeter will read12.5-13 volts (battery voltage) with the engine running or turned off (no major change). 2) If the alternator is working, with the engine running, you will expect to see 14+volts on the battery.

LOL!!

Wow, the cleanest MJ I've ever seen. Thanks for sharing this great rig!

The '94 2.5L has the temperature sending unit on the thermostat housing. After reading your comments, I realized that was a decoy. Since I retained RENIX and the intake manifold, I nosed around and located an unconnected water temp sensor on the intake manifold. In close proximity was the mating wiring harness connector. I connected the two and BOOM! She drives a like a new car! Thanks!

My upside down grill when I bought it....

I changed all my manifold bolts to Stainless steel. Seems to work ok.

I swapped in a '94 2.5l but retained all the RENIX. However. I did not reconnect the oil pressure and water temp sensor since the connector on the '94 was different. Does RENIX need temp data to run properly? Symptoms: 1) idiot temp light flickers when cold but turns off when warm. Not sure why since I don't think it is connected. 2) bad idle at cold start. 3) engine hesitates when accel and cruising during the first 4-5 miles of warm up. Pushing in the clutch and revving fixes it for a moment. 4) runs great when hot. Goal: better cold running.

Thanks for the flywheel swap info regarding placing an Chrysler CPS into Renix. What about vise versa? Will a Renix flywheel work with the Chrysler CPS and electronics?

I believe the engineering explination is if you apply heat to the outer via torch, the metal expands ( holes get bigger). However, why wouldn't the ball joint expand too? It does, but the thermal resistivity of the contact joint slows the heat transfer enough so the outer expands faster. I think if you held heat to it long enough, you would "loose the race" so to speak. Best to beat on the joint while heating. But that is all theory and I am sure some experience on this board may give more real explination.

I bought the one-piece from a '94+ YJ. It needs a little RTV in the corners but otherwise was really easy. Note: This was for a 2.5L and '94 motor. I assume the one-piece will work for older 2.5L, but I would ask an expert to confirm. Not sure what year your engine is.

Mission accomplished. Lessons learned: 1. The YJ accessory pulleys are not offset as much. I had to use all the YJ accessories including the power steering and alternator. I had to rig up an external regulator from a dodge pickup since the YJ is externally regulated in the ECU.

I got a straggler.. What is the bottom (large) barb fitting for? its on the engine side of the throttle body. I can't seem to find the mating end.