Bounty Hunter

Good idea, maybe a bottle jack between the rim and leaf spring, or between the rim and something more solid. Find a portapower (hydraulic ram) and, with extensions, put pressure between both rims. One will give for sure.

Doable but not recommended. Still too light a vehicle and too short a wheelbase for the weight of a trailer and jeep.

I'd consider flat-towing or using a dolly, I'll eventually be flat-towing my YJ with the MJ. Trailer/jeep combo is too much strain, and too much to handle and stop.

Jeeps generally call for 10w30 or 10w40.

I think it'd be just right for those tires, go for it.

I've repaired one that broke clean in half where the speedo gear meshes. I've bashed on my H&T with no problems. Looking back, and seeing how cheap HD SYE's are now, it makes sense to get the HD shaft. Not to mention you have to spend $40-$60 on a CV flange to bolt a CV driveshaft up to the RE H&T flange.

Tell me more about the weakness of the stock mainshaft? Ever see one break?

Cut to length, retubed, either way it won't likely fit unless resized.

I'm running a SOA in the rear, about 6.5" of lift, no vibes with no SYE. On the other hand, I've installed about a half dozen PORC SYE's and they're decent kits. A TJ/XJ/MJ front CV driveshaft, when cut to length, will bolt right into the rear with a SYE.

Strange looking outer C and knuckle.

I pulled that center section too, and had to notch up both ends of the roll pan for the bumper brackets to slide all the way in. I've since cut a section from a LWB rollpan (they're flat) to rivet in place of the curved section removed from my SWB. Not that important, but it'll cover the gaping hole.

The extra one I have isn't fiberglass, it's somewhere right above cardboard. I do know it crumbles pretty easily.

Every 'Yoda bed I've seen was full of rust, while the cabs are rust-free. I recommend fabbing your own bedsides similar to the M416 trailer or an M715.

From the looks of it, glad you got it figured out :roll:

Best prices and selection on D44 parts, use the list on the left hand side of the page: www.completeoffroad.com

U should be fine.

if i remember correctly, IIRC :brows:

You can still purchase FSM's for about $85 each.

Swapping in a rear axle from an XJ requires rewelding the spring perches and shock mounts, and provides no lift unless installed beneath the springs, then it adds about 6" of lift with stock MJ springs.

Preload is important to the bearings, as backlash is important to the R&P mesh.

Oh ya, and then there's the gas ax

Doubt it. only other way I know of is with a cutoff wheel and cold chisel.

I hope so, that's the only way to go. I have the bluetop (D34M) and love it.

Maybe this is the tailgate tire holder some of you are referring to: www.tiregate.com Can be mounted to angle inwards or outwards, and they have vertical and horizontal as well.

MT/R's are not long lasting, the same soft tread compound that makes them work well in rocks causes them to wear quickly on the road. The Super Swamper TSL Radial in 32"x10.5" is close to most 33" in height, aggressive while retaining decent road manners of a radial.