Bounty Hunter

Is there a thread in the classifieds?

Btt, how's this rig doing for ya?

The front bolt pattern is different between the two which keeps them from being interchangeable. The 231c has 5 bolts to the tranny and the 231j has 6. The same SYE works for both, so a 231c isn't a bad choice when swapping in a GM drivetrain.

www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm states it should be the same input shaft between the two (except for the gear cut, which won't matter in your case). I would measure to be sure.

IIRC, I ran 5.5" coils and 17" LCA's, and built my UCA's to 15.5" for about 5º caster. The MJ worked well with that setup. With 17" or even 17.5" LCA's, I would recommend setting the jeep on the axle with the UCA's removed and a large 2" ratchet strap from the top of the inner C's to the rear axle, holding the top of the axle from flipping forward. Then adjust the ratchet straps for the proper caster, and finally adjust the UCA's.

I had replaced that bushing when I installed the axle, and the oem bushing was a major PITA to get out. I love the progress, sweet lookin rig. I've been able to put more time and $$ into mine if you wanna check it out here. Keep up the good work.

If you want to make sure your injectors are working properly: http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

You don't need to do anything to those vacuum ports, muck can't get through into the transfer case. You can unscrew the vacuum switch if you like, and replace it with a plug similar to a 231 from a non-disco jeep.

Do you get any oil in the air filter?

Tim, had I known you were interested in 'em I would have asked Jay to just leave the seats at my place, save on shipping. Now they're in Ohio :oops:

I know how excited you must be, we built our last two homes and have been very happy with them. Is it common practice down there to put a slab on fill dirt? Seems kind of risky to me, seems if you had to use any fill it would be best to use crushed lime.

Made the handle out of 1.5" tubing. The threaded rod is 1.5" acme rod, and the nut cost about $15. The 1.5" acme nut was about the hardest to source. You can get the acme rod and nut Here.

I've read that you should remove the temp sending unit in the back of the head, near the intake manifold. As you fill the closed system the air should escape through this hole. Fill until no more air comes out. If you continue to have problems with air getting in, chances are you have a bad overflow bottle or similar air leak.

I made it, what do you want to know?

Works all the same.

I recommend having the TPS checked and adjusted using a computer hooked through the diagnostic port on the pass. side fenderwell. YOu can remove the fuse to the TCU (under the glove box) and shift the AW4 manually.

I'm lookin at this now too, the price on the links you posted look a lot better than the RockStomper beadlocks I was looking at. If I do it, I'll have to have about 1" cut off the outside of my 8" rims because I don't want a 10" wide wheel.

We all know the Rubi D44's are fake, D44 center sections with thin wall tubing and outers similar to D30/35 counterparts. Wonder if the same applies to the JK or if they've beefed 'em up any?

It should be a wider axle than '06 and earlier, and a steel centersection. The D44A is a Grand Cherokee exclusive.

I'm guessing it can. I'll stick to my Redline MT90.

A lot depends on where and what type of wheelin you plan on doing most, how much road driving compared to offroad, and if you're willing to compromise either offroad or onroad manners for more of the other.

Sounds like the tranny was slipping due to being low on fluid. If it's a simple leak you may not have roached the tranny.

I use the stock pitman arm with RE 5.5" springs, no problems. Like said, the ZJ arm drops about 1" lower than the MJ/XJ arm.

I'd guess 3.55 or 3.73 but I really have no idea with the 2.8L v6. Luckily Exploder rear ends are out there with the common MJ gear ratios. I put a 4.10 8.8 in the rear of my MJ and was sure the flange adapter was attached to the pinion flange when I bought it.

HB, your reasoning that lengthening the rod 2" would fix it is correct, restores things to normal. However moving the axle further from the bed should create less brake bias to the rear, causing the fronts to lock up first, as Eagle stated. Don't know why it worked the opposite for you.