TNT

Looks real good. Just add some bumpstop extentions to it to keep from over compressing the springs intO a negitive arch. Relocate the shock mounts for longer travel shocks and measure what will fit. You should be able to run 10"-11" travel shocks.

where do you get the stanley replacement springs? I can get them from National Spring in Milwaukee. Any big spring shop should be able to get them. I just get a good discount on my work account.

McCaslin is pretty fun, I would be up for run. Maybe I could get some to the MadXJ members to join us. They have GPS maps for the entire place.

I think the final plan is a custom box with storage areas and a Cherokee gas tank. It will also get a rollcage with a exo halo and a pillar over the cab. The spare tire will be hinged over the storage area on the box. I just can't see reworking a stock box when I know I'll thrash it. Here are some reworked plans Updated with extra width for tire coverage and rock rails that will extend the length of the cab. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I have never needed a pickle fork to remove the steering. They rip the boots and there is an easier way. Strike the end of the knuckle(not the tie rod) where the tie rod goes threw with about a 32 ounce hammer (while prying down slightly on the steering with a big pry bar if needed). It will pop right out in a couple hits. By striking the end of the knuckle it causes the taper to come loose and slide right out. The same way works for the pitman arm and even ball joints.

I'd like to do mine like your white XJs... at the body line. Definately get that write-up going! :popcorn: Untill I can devote the time/effort to getting actual flares on, I'll need to make cuts so I can go wheeling (or driving period without tearing up my new tires for that matter :oops: ). Could you give me some specs on where you cut the fenders prior to installing the flares? (again, like the ones on the white XJ) Thanks! I can take off the passenger flare tomorrow probably and snap some pictures of the cuts and the flares. I don't use those anymore anyway. BTW it's tan Here's a link to an old write-up http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/TPfenderFlares/FenderFlares.htm Fully stuffed and room to steer from lock to lock without rubbing.

AAAAAAAARRRRRRGH!!!!!!!!!! Are you taunting me specifically now?!?!?!!??!?!?!?! :bowdown: I want to know how you do that!!!! AND, what products/adhesives/tools you used to do that... I want to try! The sets I've tried in the past never came out anywhere near yours. :cheers: All I do to the flares is cut/trim them and reform them as needed with a heat gun until I get the results I want for the way I plan on cutting the fenders. I bolt them back on and use spacers under the flare mounts as needed. The gap is filled with pieces I cut from old flares I have and mount on the redone flares with push nuts and screws. Which flares interest you the most. I still have to do the passenger side on the MJ. I will be writing that up. The pictures will help you understand what I do to the flares. I just don't like TJ flares or the '97 and newer flares. I use '95 to '96 front flares for front applications because they get wider in the front portion. For rear applications I use MJ rear flares or '94 and older front flares on the rear depending on what my end goal is. I also use inner fender liners to keep the dirt out.

Huh? If you hold the steering against the lock it causes the pump to build over 1000psi and creates a ton of heat at the same time which will overheat the fluid. This is why I add a cooler to the power steering return line, rock crawling and general slow speed wheeling can overheat the fluid without a cooler. The cooler will also extend the life of the pump, steering gear, and hoses.

Since we are showing XJ's The front Image Not Found And the rear Image Not Found I love cutting metal. The front fenders were done by the second day I had it. I did some milder rear work and ran my 33x10.50-15's for a month before I lifted it...

I like I will be driving mine too much to be cut like that, but I did have thoughts... :D

I'm on my pain pills most of the time when I'm working on my rig. I seem to spend a bunch of time just staring at it... This was done on the max perscribed dose I think.... :cheers: Image Not Found

Let me guess, you were drinking then too??? :cheers:

Read my thread http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6161&start=30 I will be doing a write-up

Got specifics? I knew the D35 wheel cylinders were different from the D44 wheel cylinders, but that's only two. Bendex# 33627 & 33628 = 7/8" 33004 & 33005 = 1" 33206 &33207 =1 1/8" I believe there are at least 1 to 2 more sizes.

Some are and some aren't.... I have a full set of painted ones and a bunch of assorted unpainted ones.

Just so you are aware there are 4 different size wheel cylinders that will fit a XJ/MJ rear axle and they can be used to increase the rear braking power. Try it the way it is and upgrade later as needed. This a great way to increase the braking power after a D44 front axle swap is done with it's larger brakes, or to match a WJ front brake upgrade.

I have seen in some cases an injury to you would be covered by workmans comp. I'm just glad to hear you are OK. The Jeep can be replaced.

Use the 2wd MJ springs cut as long as possible. That would be the first choice by far. It will increase your spring rate and your spring life. A shorter leaf would cause added stress on your main leaf. Using a spring that matches your main leaf legth will extend the life of your springs. If they still aren't stiff enough after adding the MJ leaf then add the XJ leaf. It won't hurt the main leaf because it is protected by the full length added MJ leaf.

Thats good to know because I'm swapping in a 4.0 HO AW-4 and going back to SOA with the 9" axle. The 9" axle appears to have a 1/2" shorter pinion then my current D44 rear axle. So I will gain 1.5" of driveshaft length and lose 1/2" of pinion length which should be about perfect. Time will tell.

Because they are longer and taller the rear XJ flares. Front flares are just as wide on the top and are longer and can have a wider opening the MJ flares can. Here's a pic of what stock front flare can do for maximum room. Thats a 33x10.5-15 with 6" of lift. Image Not Found

This is a comparison of the YJ yoke compared to the MJ / XJ style yoke. Image Not Found If your yoke is still out to far drill a new hole 3/4 of an inch behind the original center hole in the perch to move the axle 3/4" forward for more yoke engagement.

It's a well detailed plow truck. Not worth the money IMO.

Ok I lightened it up. Trust me I weigh all the options. I'll spend hours deciding what I want to do, sleep on it and check it out one more time. Working with metal is a blast. I build stuff and then enjoy the fact that I did that myself. Building is half the fun of wheeling IMO. BTW I appreciate your input and others also, it just how some input comes across that isn't right, from a mod on top of that...

Since my build will have a ton of things happening at the same time I will make seperate files and write-ups for each part the best I can. It will be everything from HP D44 front axle swap, a 9" rear axle swap, a 4.0 HO / auto swap, the fender cutting, long door cab using 2dr XJ doors, bob the bed, shorten the front of the box, a complete '95 R-134 A/C swap, power window, door lock, mirror swap, relocating shackles into the frame rails, frame plating, weld in rock rails, an exo cage, and much more. Are 5.1 meg pics good enough? I have just been using e-mail size so far.

Stock axle is a high pinion D30.