TNT

Quoted for truth. Worth the extra money! Soo true. Use some 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive to stick it on to the valve cover. It's the best gasket adhesive there is. Thats all I used when I was turning wrenches for Mopar.

Those are the ones. BTW MJ springs are 2.5" wide and the bushing that is about 3" wide

Just search for Chevy drop shackles and you should be able to find greasable ones in that price range. I did a couple weeks ago.

88-98 ones 1" lift ones are 2" longer then the stock MJ ones. 2" ones are 4" longer.

The only problem with this is you are never supposed to heat front end parts.

These is cool too Image Not Found Image Not Found

1 of my 2 favorite Mopars... The '68 race Hemi Dodge Dart Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found The other is a '71 Hemi 'Cuda Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here are some 4x4's I like to have Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I like these too. 8) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found :cheers:

Bob it, cut the rear box side off from the bodyline down, and roll some steel around to fill the light openings. Add some LED lights and a beefy rear bumper that tapers up on the corners and has some 2"x2" tube wrap around under the cut box sides. Add a couple of D-ring mounts and a 2" receiver to finish it off..

I agree with you on the Neon being faster, but the Caliber looks so much better than a Neon. The fuel door on the Challenger is not plastic, it is chrome plated cast aluminum. :cheers: I prefer the Neon SRT-4 without a doubt. I had a 05 SRT-4 ACR "Neon" it was much faster, handled way better, was much more of a track car the the Caliber will ever be. The seating was perfect, the Viper seats rock. The only SRT that is faster or handles better is the SRT-10 Viper. The Richard Petty drivers agreed with that also. The Neon SRT-4 was designed by the Viper SRT-10 design team and the Caliber was designed by the regular designers. I have driven both at Road America and was able to got 160+ in my Neon and had to back off because I hit the rev limiter on the front straight and the other 2 straight aways also. The Caliber strugged to hit 150mph. Cornering was no comparision, but thats because I had the ACR. My ACR's cornering speeds where 20 to 30mph faster and 35mph faster on the Carousel. The SRT-8's , the Caliber, and the SRT-10 pick-up has a loose floating feeling over 130mph. The SRT-4 and SRT-6 are better and rate about the same. The SRT-4 ACR stayed tight at any speed. There were corners the SRT-4 ACR could pull on the SRT-10 Viper but the Viper would pull on a stock SRT-4 ACR otherwise. The Stage 3 SRT-4 gave the Viper a run for the money in the tight sections. The SRT-10 Viper ACR would smoke them all. Here are some youtube links. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8mzmScgVik&feature=related

Pictures sent. Here's a few teasers. I want this car bad... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here is what I want.... A 2009 Viper SRT-10 ACR. 600HP, 1000 pounds of downforce at 150mph, adjustable rebound & compression damping & ride height without strut removal, 1.5G's turning, 60mph to 0 in under 100 feet, it's a track car for the street. :bowdown: :eek: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I want one in the worst way... I might have to trade off the wife and buy one. :brows: I'm in Love... :cheers:

I just torch them off, put the new ones on, tack them down, pull the axle and burn them home. I do like to add a truss on the top and backside of a 9" axle. I will be starting mine very soon. I also will cut the bottom for ground clearance and weld some 1/4" plate in to plate the hole that was cut for clearance.I I'll also add a 2.5" wide x 1/4" steel strap that runs from the rear truss under the housing just past the area that was clearanced to help protect the housing from wear caused by sliding across rocks. A fill and drain plug is a great addition also. Kinda like this one. This is a nice linked one.

Cooper STT. Made in the USA. http://www.coopertires.com.au/tyres/stt_new.htm

Dunno the weight of a 340 IRT what you have (4.0?) I considered something other than my 2.5 when it needed overhauled at 260,000. I looked at a GM 4.3 and 5.0. The weight addition of the 4.3 would probably have meant changing springs, the 5.0 definite, and to do a good long lasting job for my "street jeep" ... the bucks were way too much. I know the 4.0 is heavier than a GM 4.3 and not much lighter than a GM SB V8. But, the 340 ... will you need different front springs? A 340 with an aluminum intake weghs 505 pounds, while a 4.0 weighs 515 pounds. If I ran headers and aluminum heads it would weigh about 440 pounds. Weight isn't a concern.

If I can find a good deal on a rust free short box I'll paint it Plum Crazy or In-Violet with billboards and a non glare black hood. :chillin: If not I might be able to run hockey sticks on TorRed or Rallye Red on a custom bed. :brows: I have always liked Go Mango, Vitamin C, Sublime, Lemon Twist, Top Banana, Citron Yella and Scorch Red too. ;)

Here's some spec's to throw out there. A '04 SRT-4 has a 3.44 in bore X 3.99 in stoke. It has 250 ft·lb of torque from 2200-4400rpm with 235hp @ 5500rpm stock. With a few simple mods these numbers grow dramaticly. It doesn't cost much to get 275hp and 300 ft·lb of torque with the same torque curve and a 350# peak. If you haven't noticed it's bore to stroke ratio is under-square which makes it a high torque engine. With a bigger turbo 500hp is easy to hit :D It would cost way more for me to do a SRT-4 swap. The 340 just makes more sense. A '95 4.0 HO has a bore: 3.88 in X stroke: 3.413. It has 190 hp @ 4750rpm and 225 ft·lb @ 3950rpm of torque. It has a smaller/shorter torque curve. It's a great engine, but it is old school in comparison. As for MPG the SRT-4 would be better then a 4.0 with the same power output. To keep up with the 2.4 turbo the 4.0 requires extensive work and expense. The SRT-4 motor in a 2wd MJ or a prerunner would make a great. A swb MJ street truck with a NP242 case for AWD traction would be a blast. I just love a old school cammed up V-8. :brows: Here are some specs 340ci 4.04" bore x 3.31" stroke 10.2:1 to 1 compression with 275HP @ 5000rpm and 340 ft·lb of torque @ 3200rpm. It has a 1.85 to 1 rod length to stroke ratio. It is also very over-square. Both are great for high rpm power. ;)

I'm seriously cosidering swapping in a built 340 I have a line on. It needs to be freshed up and have a new solid lifter cam installed in it. I have either a 727 or a 999 non-lockup trannys for the 340. :chillin: I have a Mopar 4.0 reman longblock with 3k on it an aw-4 with 85k on it and all the wiring, a complete r134 ac system with a new condenser, reciever drier, and evaporator. ;) I'll just sell all this and make my MJ as light as possible. The 4.0 was my original plan, but a 340 is my favorite engine to have. I love to be able to spin 7500rpm no problem. :brows: No more emission tests either. Any thought's or input will be great.

:needpics:

I see you have a male MJ, you taught it how to raise its leg... :D :cheers:

Stock flares will fit with some work and look good. Mild with 33" tires (up to bodyline) Filled gap Inner fender liner Or wild (above bodyline) with 33" tires (in process, it will have a wheel liner) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found There are no gaps they are complete filled and looks good. Here are some pictures of the both style flares showing how it is filled. Raised to the bodyline Mounted Image Not Found How the gap was filled Image Not Found Side views Image Not Found Image Not Found Raised above the bodyline Mounted Image Not Found How the gap was raised Image Not Found Side views Image Not Found Image Not Found Comparison Image Not Found Image Not Found I have raised my flares as much as possible, as I have posted before. Here is a picture of the inner fender after raising the flares with 33" tires. Image Not Found I cut the front of the inner fender for a dramatic increase in room. My goal is to get as much uptravel as possible as part of my build. I still need to do some more welding, then clean up and paint it. Here is a picture looking straight down from under the hood. Image Not Found Image Not Found Here is a picture the inner fender. I gained 4" or more of clearance. The difference is dramatic. Image Not Found There is now more room in front the tire then from the rear or above. I should be able to stuff the tire about 3" more and still be able to turn from lock to lock. As part of my build the front axle will be moved forward 2"-3". I will be adding an inner wheelwell liner. Here is the cut and raised rear fenders/flares my '95 I parted out. 5" of lift with 33" tires. Image Not Found

So have you had a chance to push it hard? Do you have understeer or oversteer? Or is it neutral? My DD XJ is neutral right now. I would probably need to put my rear sway bar back on because a larger front bar would induce understeer. Right now my 3" lifted XJ is very neutral and easy to control when cornering very hard. It does a nice even 4 wheel drift when exiting under heavy throttle when in fulltime. In parttime it has very slight amount of understeer when exiting because of the lack of power applied to the front tires. This is my set-up on my DD. Up front it has ZJ up country springs, stock swaybar/bushings/links, 1.25" of spacer, Moog problem solver control arm bushings(stiffer) and Ram 1500 front shocks. The rear is original stock springs with 9 year old RE AAL that still give 3" of lift, a limited slip, stock shocks with raised mounts and long MJ bumpstops. The tires are 31x10.5-15 BFG AT KO tires. So how is your handling now and how the rest of your suspension set-up. :cheers:

I'm going to be bending tube pretty soon, your rig gives me some ideas. :brows: Just keep up the good work. Keep us updated too. :D

The stacks are cool on this one