JeepcoMJ

sold it to a friend for 1300. put in a new flexplate, front tranny seal, tranny filter and gasket kit, 8 quarts new fluid (flushed the system), new idler pulley, replaced the bad spot on the floor, put in new front ujoints, and new front brakes. now he's got it liscensed plated and insured all today and i am replacing the exhaust manifold on wednesday. he got a fricking good deal...i even undercoated the whole thing.

ya sure it's not power steering fluid? and the front crank seal requires removing the waterpump, all front engine accessories, timing cover, and timing chain. then of course you will need to remove the timing gear from the crankshaft, then put it back on properly and re-time the motor unless you're SURE it didn't move. I also think the oil pan may need to come off so you can loosen the front main bearing cap to get at the front seal...not sure on that one though.

oooh pretty

I don't like dead bodies. or the idea of being buried. or of donating organs. so basically i'll stay away from your deal there pakrat. i lifeguard..so it's generally not boring. in the mornings it's droll but i get to think about things...so as long as i got enough sleep, it's all good. other times it sucks cause it's too busy. same goes for teaching swim lessons ;) damn likkle tykes get rowdy. and i work at the building materials desk at menards now (seeing as i can't do shipping recieving w/ my foot) and that's pretty steady paced. definitely keeps me on my toes as i don't know what sku numbers everything would generally fall under yet...pickin it up tho :D

like the title says. 87 comanche sport truck...4.0 renix system. rear two cylinder to downpipe tubes are cracked where they meet the downpipe on the manifold. i need to weld it up...and i got the gasket (intake and exhaust combined?....wierd) and obviously i've never worked on a system like this before...what's the best way to do it? I've deduced i need to remove the throttle body connections, the airbox and intake tube, the vacuum tubes, and probably the shield on top of the manifold. i don't want to break any studs and i want to do this as fast as possible...this thing is quickly taking more time out of my days and all I want to do is sell it...it's making my $1500 sale price look low and i don't want to be unreasonable.

installed it with a new torque converter seal and tranny filter/pan gasket kit. that fixed the choppy running...it's perked right up now that the CPS can get a good reading rather than a bunch of wobble. shifts smooth, runs good. now i have to replace one idler wheel for the serpentine, and take off the intake and exhaust manifolds so i can weld the exhaust.

damn for what looked like a heavy duty bumper...that didn't stand up well. mine's like that but sturdier...it's now taken out the hood of a 05 spyder convertible (dumb blonde couldn't drive out of her parking spot...ran right into the truck and the bottom of the ball took out her hood and cracked the valve cover :nuts: ) i love the style man, i'd just replace it unless you're looking for a beefier setup

my thoughts are CPS if it won't start right away. I just replaced the flex-plate on my 87 sport truck because it was cracked and wobbling...the truck was running like $#!& and clanking up a storm (knew it wasn't engine knock as it was from the bellhousing). with the new flex-plate, the CPS is now getting a correct reading hence it starts faster, starts on the first try, and runs like a top. now to do the exhaust manifold...

well if you can get a flow chart for the sensors, you can use a voltmeter (or whatever that thing is called) to measure the power flow through the sensor...and know if it's wrong or right.

what do they do, just balance out at rotating speeds?

yea, mass airflow sensor would be my guess...it's a sensor problem for sure tho in my experience. throttle position sensor too it could be, or even a faulty CPS

no, i am going to bolt it to the frame. i could maybe stop by this weekend, if not, i will measure them up for you. cool, gimme a buzz..i gotta work on sunday but saturday someone's coming to pick up the 2.8 from my 3800 and i'll be working on my sport truck..if the part comes in tomorrow i may actually get the truck done by saturday. when it sells, i pay the lawyer what i owe her and the rest gets payed to the jy owner who's got my next manche sittin there :D hope ta see ya...if ya can't make it don't bother with measurements, i can make up my own too.

my camaro powered mj roars with 3.55 gears. it's hella quick, i had it to 117 mph with my little 235's on it...according to my buddies gps. actually, it only shakes from 78 to 83 mph and is smooth otherwise...not much death rattle at all.... You're an insane mofo ;) i try to please :D it actually was a very smooth ride. i was very impressed...like i said the rattles were only from 78 to 83 mph and it was like butta other than that. she still had more, but that was around the point i saw the cop ;) don't worry tho, he was eating a donut...and i was gettin on the exit ramp (never do that with a pegged speedo...kinda a bit scary hehehe)

note i said no rust through it's got surface rust along the doors and the passenger side of the bed, but zero rust through. nothing a nice sanding and some rattle can primer/paint won't fix.

nope...i don't want that look on the 3800. that will (hopefully) get a 97-01 update interior and out this summer. i want the waggy front end on this truck so that when i 4x4 it and lift it i'll have a wheelin truck w/ a bit of flair.

my camaro powered mj roars with 3.55 gears. it's hella quick, i had it to 117 mph with my little 235's on it...according to my buddies gps. actually, it only shakes from 78 to 83 mph and is smooth otherwise...not much death rattle at all....

his dad's willys has subaru brat seats in the back of it...kinda ingenious if you ask me :D

don't weld it to the frame tho... oh hey, would it be possible for ya to stop by so i can get some measurements off your headlight guards on that brushguard? or however you want to do it...I'll be home all weekend here so... i basically need the measurements cause i got a guard like yours that just doesn't have the loops for the headlights. and i like yours...so that's what i'll base it offa.

daddy likes

with this front end... there's no rear axle, it's an 88 4 cylinder ax4 tranny, 2wd. so it needs a 4.10 rear axle. the title has been junked...but i have something up my sleeve. $600 for the truck and the waggy front end. runs. needs the interior panels (i have them). no rust through (and i mean NONE), minimal dents, needs a good sanding and painting. this will be an interesting project...i'll name it Duke. i get it in 3 weeks.

well, i'm back to work today...just sit-down now but it's work all the same :D stupid ankle...I have 3 weeks to go before my next doc's appointment...and then hopefully i'll be cleared for guarding and doing normal work.

as the great will ferrel said... "don't act like you're not impressed"

10-4 Joe. you're good to ride with me...perhaps we can get either your 2wd repaired the week before, or even get your engine built for the up-coming swap before we roll out to attica

i've removed MANY dashes now from manches and a few early cherokees...you CAN remove the dash in one piece minus the kneeboard, radio, bezel, speedo cluster, and by pulling the heater controls back through. it takes some gentle caressing and a sidecutters (to cut the nye-ties holding the wiring to the dash), but you can get the dash assembly with headlight switch, glovebox, and glovebox trim removed without much effort...

perhaps