JeepcoMJ

I like the persuasion method

uh...just buy the clutch kit for the ax15, you WILL need a ax-15 specific clutch. pilot bushing comes with it.

THANKS!!!!!!!! that will help immensely...the pump is directly below the driver's seat and I regret having mounted it there.

Do your homework -- and if you can actually buy collector insurance for a Comanche, please tell us where. I tried a couple of years ago. Both Taylor and the other big name in collector insurance (the name escapes me at the moment) flat-out refused to insure any 4WD or off-road vehicle. Didn't matter what age, what condition, how many "primary" vehicles I own, or how much I might be willing to pay. They wouldn't even consider offering a quotation. Nope. Nyet. Non. Nao. End of discussion. yeah, but this is a "show" truck...it won't see any off-road use

Your right......I remember working on a '87 a couple of weeks ago, and notice it didn't have the Balast Resistor. Was a no start MJ........brought the price down on it too :brows: JohnQ - I posted the part # for you, that should have helped at the counter?? wait, so could I use one of these on my comanche with the inline ford fuel pump to lessen pump noise? ideas are pouring through my brain.

....wouldn't start today. just clicked. checked battery with volt meter it was 13 volts. starter relay was fine. starter wasn't. well, the heat shield for the starter, suffice to say, was not accounted for in accessability when I built the exhaust manifolds...but I got it out. the starter was loose. I removed it, checked the flywheel teeth and starter for functionality. starter sounds dry, so it IS going to die soon. I'll order a new one when that happens. anyways, I re-routed the starter wire around the front underside of the engine rather than over the bellhousing and within centimeters of the exhaust, as a safety precaution. that's all done. got the starter back in and hooked up, same probelms. I did take care of the battery terminals beforehand. so I stuck the charger on it...learned something today. just because a voltmeter says 13 volts, doesn't mean that the battery has enough charged nacelles to turn over the starter. charged it. starts, runs. hooked up the large voltmeter/timeing/scan tool my dad has before starting it, 12.67 volts. running, 12 volts. deduced that the alternator isn't charging. took alternator in to Maxim rebuilders, which is a electric motor/starter/alternator rebuild place, it's FUBAR. so they're rebuilding it entirely and upping it from 105 to 145 amps for $1 per amp. so i'm driving my bro's porsche in the meantime, alternator should be done by tomorrow. also rotated my tires, my camber AND caster are off on the front end. way off...and the tires are toed out. idk how, but a new front axle is in the mix within the next few thousand miles so I adjusted the tierods using a tape measure to the tread on the front and back of the tires until they were equal, so my toe-out is fixed, but axle, still bent. man, this thing is KILLING me on money right now. so many problems in such a small space of time. it's what you get with custom projects like this i guess

nope, it would take up too much space behind my seat, plus if it gets cracked or something, i really don't want that acid all over inside my cab

Yeah, me too. I also try to keep my speed at just about 2 MPH over the posted limit (just enough to make up for the built-in speedo error -- if I'm in a Jeep that I know reads slower than actual speed, I adjust accordingly) with the aim of actually driving right at the limit. Takes a few minutes longer to get there, and some people find it annoying, but it avoids traffic tickets. Back to the original post, though -- I second the advice given above, to always fight a speeding ticket. But ... if you can't afford an attorney, you pretty much MUST spend some time in a library to look up the regulations on the use of radar guns. It probably won't be in a statute book -- it's more likely an administrative regulation adopted pursuant to a statute. And it may not be grouped with motor vehicle regulations. I would expect it to be grouped with police procedural regulations. I won't be getting an attorney, I've just spent 2500 on one in regards to a much, much more complex situation that I am in. I have cost myself alot of money this year through poor choices. I will go in, debate it with the DA, hopefully get it down to 2 points and 40 bucks or something, and then take that. the rents are dropping me from their insurance, which means the 3800 will be put in my name (was under my mother's for cheaper insurance), and I will get my own liability insurance, which will be changed to collector's insurance when I put collector's plates on it ($117 per year or something cheap like that on insurance). gotta have a "primary" vehicle to do that though. anywho, I owe the final 1000 to my attorney, this deal now, my alternator died and the starter will go soon, so gotta buy them and i have a bunch of things to fix on the 3800. buying that other manche and my funds are sufficiently dry after that. got accepted for 80,000 dollars worth of college loans today tho! should pay for my final 2.5 years at whitewater, and the one in australia :D

you put the connector wires on wrong most likely... make sure they're right.

small town. I will dispute it...plead not guilty and speak with the DA before the court case. here when you get a ticket, you can dispute it and come to an agreement with the DA and never have to see the judge. It is, like I said, a highway. a 4 lane highway, right before a 45 mph zone...I think that I can argue it and get it reduced or no points.

Can you just splice one in? My 87's fuel pump is crazy loud. It makes a constant whine/buzz ... it had be thinking that it is going to go up soon? But now after reading this I'm thinking it might be normal. Where exactly is this located on the MJ? My parts MJ is a '89 so I could rob it off that. there was a TSB about it. Dealers were supposed to put one on if the customer complained of the noise. My 87's pump is noisy, but I don't care, the ballast resistor is just one more failure point. front left side of the engine compartment is where it's located. right next to the air box

I pulled the speedo card last time...no dice, the DA is a fool. it's not stock, the speedo is low by 2.37 mph, and no one was around me. BUT if anyone knows if they are required to show me the radar gun when I ask, please let me know. the officer's blatant refusal to show it to me WILL get me off the hook if they ARE required to show me. the fact that he said 50 in a 35 means it's even number-ed and not a correct reading, i was doing 47 (45 on my speedo), so I think he did not even get a solid reading, but knew I was speeding so he made it up.

...50 in a 35 which is a 4 lane HIGHWAY headed north out of town with nothing but a few businesses around it, RIGHT BEFORE a 45 mph sign. literally, had he clocked me 2 seconds later, he couldn't have said anything. anyone know what the radar law in wisconsin is? do they have to show you if you request it?

i won't have to lose my liscense...i only ever had 2 points off of it. and I hope that I can plea the points to zero or even 2 and jack the fine up...I can make it a point to have more money by then, it just requires sacrafice elswhere. I'd rather pay more and suffer less...tickets don't shine well in the long run.

sooo...i was coming back from blockbuster tonight, in a 35 mph zone which was on the verge of becoming a 45 mph zone. so i DID step on it a bit, about 40 yards before the 45 mph sign. cop clocked me and said i was doing 50 mph in a 35, and wrote me a ticket. I asked to see the radar. he said that in wisconsin they are not required to show me the radar, and he did not wish me to exit my car. so it's a 4 point violation at 83 dollars. for 15 over. I thought he HAD to show me the gun when I asked for it. am I mistaken? I was probably speeding, BUT it is a 4 lane highway outside of town with NO residences. what are my chances of getting it dropped or reduced? anyone know? I'm 20 and have a prior speeding ticket of 17 over in a 25, which was 2 points off my liscense. my Dad is PISSED and is talking to my mother, and having me removed from the insurance...they payed for it. I'm S.O.L. there...but it's kinda a big deal since I am in some deep sh*t legally otherwise, and my parents are NOT happy with me over that...now i bet they will want me to move out...which isn't a good thing for me, because i'm currently not particularly stable financially... fractured my right ankle 2 months ago, just started working again. i have 3 jobs and pending tuesday, will be able to go back to my other two...I'll make enough money then but I'm guessing i'm gonna be screwed for next semester's tuition.

@#*(%&()@#()*^!@)*(^$)(!#@%$@#%#@% :hateputers: :headpop: after some extensive testing, i found my CPS theory to be absolute crap. it was a faulty connector at the coil pack control module. runs and drives. still needs new clutch master cylinder and power steering pump. oh, and brake booster...mine has a hole in it :eek: my fault :oops: but the brake booster will wait until the 8.8 swap...that 99 wj booster is looking mighty enticing. oh, and the tcase is SHOT. the tranny and tcase have well over 300,000 miles (had them laying around out of parts truck during 4x4 conversion, so they were it). so now it gets the tranny and tcase from my "tatersalad" truck. and all i REALLY want to do is put a waggy front end with brush guard on it...i don't actually want to FIX anything. oh, haha, mu UCA's are shot, and my alignment is wrong (funny tread on tires and a tape measure says toe-out). can't replace the UCA's without removing the left exhaust header...it's in my way :( well...maybe i can undo the motor mount and get away with it. at least that doesn't have a gasket. BLAH

to free up space up front, which allows for better cooling (more area for air to move, plus more air comes in around the headlight socket. that's sorta a side-effect. but it's mostly to free up space, route wires safely, AND remove front end weight.

we've been hooped since they joined chrysler. actually, since chrysler decided to drop the comanche and keep the dakota. guarantee if they kept the comanche, the demand would have outweighed the demand for the dakota

brings me back to the days when i took a leek in a friend's diesel tank. alcohol was involved, as was much cussing in the AM when his car wouldn't start and we couldn't figure why...until i was politely reminded by his MOM. gotta love drinkin in the boonies...it's a family ordeal ;)

nothing wrong with that, but you have worked hard to build up to where you are...mess around now and there goes retirement. man, if the gf isn't the one, and doesn't give you the "butterflies", figure that out. if all the stuff is a problem, get rid of it. by all means sell the house, but get an apartment, invest the money, and rent or buy a nice little shop on an acre or two that you can put all your tools and jeep stuff in. having a place to work on your stuff is great, and keeping things simple is great. and investing now will mean more toys later, more chances to go backpacking and whatever you want.

looks like a hairy situation :eek:

DON'T start the engine. disconnect the non-pressure hose from it and drain it. tip the hose and drain that too. the oil will not mix with the power steering fluid that was already in it...unless it was empty. draining the reservoir should empty it

with a spring and a clip thing. it's just simply easier to replace the whole thing.

it's held onto the firewall by two bolts, and a clip for the cable. replace the entire assembly...it would be less than 5 bucks from a junkyard

for headliner fixes, buy new headliner material off ebay (type in headliner material in the search, or instead of material, fabric), you can buy it in like 3 and 6 yards and such... then remove your headliner (remove a-column and b-column trim, oh sh*t handle, some tin clips on either side, and 4 velcro pieces are holding it in). buy some fiberglass resin, fabric optional (but suggested) and brush it ALL OVER the headliner. do one side, then let dry, then do the other. a few coats are a must. the use of the fiberglass is because the actual headliner material is layered and pulls apart very easy...you'll glue the new liner to stock material, it WILL pull down very very rapidly. anyways, fiberglass both sides and then when that dries, spray with 3m adhesive spray (clear) at least a few coats. DON'T spray the headliner material...it soaks through. let dry for a few minutes between each spray, then wait a few more minutes, and lay down the new fabric. push and spread until it's tight... wrap it around the edge and glue it down, then let dry for a day or two...fabric side up. this will allow it to set right. it's a few days job...but it is the ONLY way to ensure it will stay up using a stock headliner.