JeepcoMJ

yep, but the truck ain't mine anymore, so i couldn't care less if it breaks in a year...

like the title says i fix this the guy gives me this for cheap i already pulled the dent out of the fender, and fixed the header panel and grille (was easy, simply unbolt, pull forward on the fender with the slide hammer, pull forward on the fender well system, put the header panel back on, new lower trim to cover the crack, new-ish chrome grille and headlight doors, and black front bumper with the bumper guards. gotta change tranny fluid/filter, fix the two small holes in the floor, undercoat it, put a new latch in the tailgate, and help him wire brush the rust off then use a polishing wheel to smooth it. paint the bottom edge silver, and voila, his truck is good to go. it's just time invested on my part, no money. but the deal is this...i get this truck driveable, he drives it, i get the red truck but don't have to pay him everything right away, which works for me since i need a DD and i already know comanches. it is a 1989 4.0, ax15 np231 dana 44 rear with disco front end, full skid plate package a leaky gas tank (easy fix), cruise control, vent wing windows, split rear, oem fog switch, and minimal rust. it needs work on the cab corners/rocker panels but not much. some minor rust on the fender flares too. he keeps the tires and mint rear bumper (i get a pretty decent one instead) and bedliner. i'm excited. it needs a name. he already promised me the truck (he won't' back out he's a good guy) so i will have it, and this is the truck that will be going to the badlands on the 18th of august. hopefully on 33x10.50's on some steel rims :D so what do you guys think? worth it? i get to help out a fellow MJ fan so i feel it's time well spent. and ideas for a name?

lol. yeah but there are some things i just would rather get new. a clutch master cylinder is not one of them. i need one soon as mine is starting to leak, but i REFUSE to put a plastic one in my truck. that's crappy for 130 bucks...i'm buying a rebuild kit methinks :D guess it's off to the yard next week for some parts :(

that's ghey. i don't want a yard item :(

ungh no gorrilla glue...WHEN the new valve cover goes bad, you will wish you hadn't glued it to the valve cover. RTV black hi temp silicone at the very least.

so this has been a subtle topic lately. but there are some differences in them from what i gather. black is just key in and door chime blue is those and headlight delay white is ???? these are the modules located to the left of the interior fusebox (i say interior so as not to confuse those of you with a newer manche). I have found that they are a PITA to remove, and have not once removed one without it refusing to work when i reinstall it. so I would like to know the part numbers for them new. specifically the blue one, which is the 7 pin one and best one.

lol, i thought i was getting ripped off too :P i'm used to getting things for free from him. but then again, he gets all the jeep carcasses i end up with, which are completely gutted and perfect for scrap... it adds up when you can do favors :D

get under the truck with two crescant wrenches (or the right size ones...i'm too lazy and don't remember the size) then go directly behind the t-case and look up. there's a junction of 3 cables, one front and two rear loosen the retainer nut on the one front one, then tighten the other nut until you get the desired effect. this requires much crawling around, pushing the pedal, cursing, getting back under, repeat. tighten retainer nut call it a day

not really easier....i mean, having something painted gets expensive. and then they don't match right. I would like to do the guts swap...it would take so little time to do, no readjustment of doors or messing with the striker, just drill some rivets, take out some phillips screws, a 10 mm bolt, a bolt-whose-size-is-unknown and thus requires a crescant wrench (window bolt), and then remove the parts. no clue on the newer style tho

yea...if i see anyone do this swap and put the stock carb system on it, I WILL kill them if i ever see them. it REALLY pissed me off when i saw this swap way back when....what's the point?!

I think i'm gonna halfass it and just pull the airbox off, then disconnect the motor mount, lift the engine with a jack, and lean down in there and weld the sucker...it will be easier. I welded the back while the tranny was out, now it's just the front part.

you CAN and you will need to update it to the newest requirements. if you install the components, it will cost you about 200 bucks for the update and recharge. it's simple enough to install them...but the dash will need to come out to install the a/c heaterbox, and the radiator will have to come out to install the condenser. other than that, it's bolt in at a nice liesurely pace

a good rule of thumb when welding is to do a small stretch, then go weld as far away from that stretch as you can...and just keep doing that. and sometimes, you just have to weld for 5 min and walk away for an hour if you want it done right

yea the kid who bought my sport truck wanted one, and it was free

CW, i'm almost certain i've got more manche parts layin around than you :D

went to the jy today after rehab since it was on the way to my meeting at work and i had 4 hours to kill... this is the catch.... 4 33x12.50 dayton timberline a/t's theyr'e "sold" to someone else (hasn't payed and hasn't been heard from), but if he doesn't call back by friday night, they're mine (cross fingers) for $250. they're in perfect shape with about 90% tread two mint tail lights, a 96 coolant reservoir, and a 4.0 washer reservoir (going in my 3800 to free up the front left corner and rid me of the 2.8 reservoirs), two stock radio cradles, and a stock jack (for the sport i sold and the 95 xj i sold) one switch panel (right side) with fog switches, 4.0 dual horns, clock, some wiring connectors that go into the fuse box, and some spare screws and relays tailgate handle and two command trac 4wd shift indicator bezels some power lock and window switch panels, and PERFECT manual remote chrome mirros (work correctly too) 4.0 electric fan, wiring, and fan shroud nice complete grey dash bezel, and my favorite, a intact and functional cruise control servo for my 86 cruise system (will have functioning cruise by end of day tomorrow) and complete chrome front end! in great shape with no cracks, complete with lights and bumper! you'll kill me when i tell you this...but i only payed 75 bucks for all this stuff. plus the 250 for the tires if i get them... good deal :D

if you need a bumper on a puny lil mower like that...hire someone to mow, cause you should NOT need to resort to that. interesting, but not too practical...you'll tow the mower before you pull anything with it

...yea, when I first saw that link a year ago, i cursed. what idiot would swap to a 3.4 then put the STOCK carb system back on?! guys, if you do a 3.4 conversion, DO NOT put the 2.8 carb and intake back on, either wire up the computer and fuel injection (verrry simple), or buy the edelbrock intake with a holley 390cfm 4bbl carb intake ($200 for intake, 300 for carb new). message me if you're doing the swap and i'll tell you what wires do what for the injection.

what about the corner markers? and the signal lens has 2 bulbs that go into it, not just one. so can you make do with one? or should I splice in the second pair of turn signal connectors I have?

I posted about this before, and from what I'm told you can't do it. the guts are entirely different. BUT that doesn't mean you shouldn't try... :D I actually don't think anyone has tried, but simply "looked" at doing it. and i'm still "looking" at doing it. let me know the results

you did it right except that the gasket probably fell back in, and i'm pretty sure 10 ft lbs is too much. go to the store, buy a new one, and ask for a gasket replacement compound (it's like silicone). you put the gasket replacement compound on the top and bottom of the gasket, then set the gasket IN THE VALVE COVER grooves, line up the holes. the silicone stuff will make it adhere to the valve cover and it won't move by just sitting there. once you do that, set it on the block, thread in the bolts by hand. now here's the tricky part...you don't have the right torque wrench, sooo what you need to do is tighten them until they're SNUG but not over-tighten them. if you overtighten, you get symptoms like what you are currently experiencing and you end up with one big mess, if you undertighten, same thing. so snug them all up in an alternating pattern starting from the MIDDLE of the cover outward, and snug them all to the same "feel" should solve your problem in a heartbeat.

that bed liner is getting trashed, i'm gonna herc the bed too bad...i'm getting a shortbed and need a liner, but have no way to get yours...

the fuse connectors ARE the plugins...not an easy job, and you don't wanna go chopping all the wires out...you want to do 1 at a time and switch it to the new board. the point of switching it out is to get new fuse connectors on the end... and they are all identical, except for wiring colors...which is why you need one from the same year to make sure it will be correct. try cleaning before you do a new one

try cleaning it with a very small file or scraper. it could be just a bad connection there. if that doesn't work, then disconnect the battery, remove the two screws holding the fuse panel to the firewall, pull it out far enough to look behind it, and clean with a small pipe-cleaner style wire brush (so you can get in all the spots

you have to use some excessive force to get the tierods off sometimes. new is the way to go. in regards to cherokee parts interchanging, anything from the front seats forward body-wise, and mechanically/electronically (wires, not components) the same as long as it's the same engine (i.e. 4.0 parts interchange with 4.0's, 2.5's with 2.5's). front axles are interchangeable between all of them, but watch out and get one with the same gear ratio as your rear if you ever need one.