JeepcoMJ

no puedo transducir esos palabras porque no he tenido clases de espanol an mas que un ano (year not @$$hole). haha, not too rusty...coulda said that a bit better but it does work.

no dice on the truck. prolly taking the bed tho. and definitely getting the waggy front end...for my next manche project :D i'll have 2 manches, one with a waggy front, and one with a 97 front (97 front on the way now! $ 130 for the whole clip, lights and all. paint, splice a second light for the turn signal into it, trim up the stock connectors, bolt on plug in and go!

no clue. SOA is a dumb idea for only 3" of lift, as it's not possible without messing with a bunch of other stuff...such as leafs. I'd say most any year exploder? but IMHO you should put the d44 in SUA, and burn the shock mounts to the front of the axle tubes on the outer edges, then angle the shocks inwards and weld a bar across with new shock mounts. someone did that on here with the shock mounts..looked great and offers GREAT articulation options, as the shocks will only help in that position and there is no chance of them being restrictive.

anyone?

sure, weld on the xj shock mounts and then make custom mounts for the uppers...but triangulate them to allow for better flex. welding a better shock system in is your best bet since you already have the 3" lift. SOA is not the answer to your demands

SOA will give you at least 5.5 inches of lift. 3" will not happen without removing leafs, which is in itself not a wholly great idea. buy an add-a-leaf or new rear springs

i was wondering how many other people locked wrench-ends to get more leverage... i thought that was a shade-tree southern thing ;) lol, i learned it from my dad who learned it from his grandpa...who passed on a couple years ago at age 93

you think that's nice, you should see the 87 he's got now that i've fixed the front clip and the fender. it's a nice truck with the chrome grille...now i have to straighten the front right frame where the bumper bolts to, and it's good to be sanded down and painted. i'll have a bit of work to do on the 89...paint the bottom edge black and put a waggy front end on it :D i'm excited though :D

it's not the header panel, but the metal support behind it. so far as i know, it's weld in. but it can't be held in by much...just a few spot welds. You CAN fit the 4.0 radiator into your 2.5 header panel, but it requires some cutting and some drilling. look at my mj 3800 project thread, as that's what I did.

i'll torch the ones out of the axle. i don't need to deal with trouble. then i guess i'll hammer in the axle ones with a socket. and perhaps I will reinforce the frame end of it a bit before i press the ones out... hmm. we'll see when i'm working on it. are you saying at normal ride height that I could do 1 at a time with the truck on the ground?

go to search and type in dash. i did write an exact how-to on it a month ago but idk where it is...

engine, tranny, wiring harness (interior and engine bay), driveshafts, 4wd shift linkages, all reservoirs, computers, and last but not least, the radiator and header panel support. basically, buy a 4.0 parts truck and swap everything. even a cherokee parts truck will work. but you'll need all of it.

the 92 is a HO. the CPS you need is for the renix...1990 and older 4.0's perhaps it would work, but chances are no

renix also DOES get better fuel mileage than the HO because the timing isn't so advanced (literally, advanced, not technologically) i prefere the renix 4.0. if you ever decide you want more power from a 4.0, bore the renix before switching to the HO. it'll turn out better.

nothin like a six-sider for gettin good grip. the 12 points work...sometimes. I like my 6-pointers and latching another wrench onto them for leverage...it works real well.

oh! for the swap you will need a good in-line fuel pump or a 2.5 or even 4.0 fuel pump and gas tank. the 3.4 isn't machined for the mechanical fuel pump (for good reason too) I will be doing this swap with beaterjeep late this summer/early next fall at the latest, so i'll keep y'all posted.

now is the time to let you guys know i have a big standup press in the shop :D so removing the bushings and putting the new ones in = simple, not a problem. why do i have to remove the swaybar links? and does the axle really need to droop? can't I just take one out and put the new one in? the only thing i've ever done with the CA's and axle is put them in...and at the time, they were all connected to the chassis, lift, seperate, slide, bolt.

see, then you have to completely redo your wiring. whereas at least this way you just have to connect the correct color to the correct color. I would much rather do paint by numbers than make a picasso

can it be done without custom seals or purchasing a new seal? I understand the shift linkages will be different, and that's not a problem. will driveshafts need to be lengthened/shortened? what about the CAD vacuum lines? if i get a 231 from a disco xj will they just plug in? what spline and length input do i need? reason for this is while putting in the cruise control speedo cable yesterday, i noted some grinding noises. thought they were the cable speedo grinding...but that wasn't it. the chain is/was hella lose and actually broke apart this morning. not good i know. now i have rwd and there's not much noise from it, but i hesitate to drive it very far. I have two other np207's and one good ax5 that i need to swap into my truck...but i figured that I may as well upgrade, and install the new tranny at the same time. I will be intigrating the shift linkage assembly into the tranny, so that if i ever drop the tranny i just have to disconnect the one connector to the shifter handle.

did you cross over the vacuum lines ot the egr? then, with the oil pressure gauge, 22psi isn't bad at IDLE but is really bad at speeds. check sending unit for correctness, check pressure mechanically, check the gauge. if it's the correct sender, and your engine doesn't clank or anything, make SURE you do a mechanical pressure test. if that's correct, you have a faulty sender or gauge. there's really not much for wiring between the gauge and sender, so it is not that.

my jy guy either loans me his portable torch, 18v sawzall (with HIS blades mind you), or just picks the truck up and moves it on over to the big oxy/aced. torch he's packing. which reminds me. guys, i get my 8.8s (yes, plural) from him on saturday. $100 for the two of them. one has 3.55 gears, lsd, and full discs, the other has 3.73 gears and full discs. problem is that the one with 3.73's is out of a rollover...so we don't know if it's straight or not. in the case that it's not straight, the 3.73's will eventually go in the one with 3.55's. the one with 3.55's is going in my comanche right away...it matches my current ratio and gives me better traction and rear end to cope with my driving and the 3800. i'm picking up a np231 from a disco-equipped xj too. my np207 is shot (chain broke, only rwd and lotsa clunking) and tho i have 2 more np207's, i just can't see staying with a piece of crap.

got some new moog UCA bushings...my UCAs are terrible. what's the best way to put them in? jack the truck up and let the front axle droop? I'm guessing that's the case...cause then i can jack the axle back up when i bolt them back in...

you figured right. sadly, i may have to do this same thing in the near future :(

thanks man. i think it's missing a/c, dome light, buckets, and power options. it's getting power locks and bucket seats.. and i think this will be something I get and just drive for awhile....i'll fix the lil bit of rust when i get the money for the lift. basically i need to park the 3800 and go over all the wiring, and repaint the intake and valve covers cause they chipped a bit during installation...just work out the kinks. so that one's first :D

lol, some putty sh*t that you put on it. I'll get back to ya on what it is. this leak is halfway up the tank, so all i have to do is run it low and then i can goop the crap outta it