JeepcoMJ

is there a trick to it? i know it's *in theory* supposed to just pull out...but i've not ONCE worked on an aw4 that it pulled right out of...i've always ended up just cutting the tube in some space or another but this time that isn't an option...it's GOT to be saved. i'm spraying pb blaster (i hate pb blaster btw...it smells like crap and WHOA does it get EVERYTHING oily) on it to see if that loosens it up...

yep, measured them they're 5 on 5...which means the 1.25" spacers my bro wants will be cheap...80 bucks for the 4 of them with the lug nuts :D idk what i'll do with the tj flares...I may keep them around for if I get a xj. they sure won't see my mj anytime in the near future...and one has a crack/hole in it but it's not bad. now, i've got the OHC apart, cleaned it, painted the center part of it (was light black/grey, now is black), put on some newer style xj visors (grey...will color match when the headliner material comes), and set up the truck for the OHC. will be installed in a couple hours, lights nonfunctioning at the moment as i don't want to yank my headliner to run the wires. then it's on to fix the sport truck tomorrow...got the "new" flexplate for it (same year), i'll just replace the old one...it's probably got wobbled out holes on it anyways. new torque converter and intermediate seals will go on the tranny along with new filter and pan gasket. should be a breeze...

didn't look like it

yea, wow, no huge avatars please. he was talking about the starter relay directly behind the battery

Woah woah woah there. I know a guy with a 'done up' 22R that puts out 100HP! For some reason he hates, maybe because I laughed at him when he told me how he had like 4g into the motor :nuts: But yes, that appears to be the secret to the toy axle's strength. (I also know a sammi that dyno'd 16rwhp.) i have about 800 bucks into swapping in a motor (complete swap...included purchasing the CAR that the engine came out of) that puts out 200 horse stock... what are these guys thinking??? my fricking snowmobile motor puts out more than that 4 grand one

I have a set of 03 Rubicon rims on my comanche. The rims should be a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. they're 5 on something other than 4.5 we tried putting them on, they're bigger bolt pattern. the spare is 5 on 4.5

the dogs really do get that big.

darwin should be working harder...

hey man let's have a party man! andale! (tirando las pistolas...) haha, gold trim man...make it that much more better

so in jefferson WI there's a huge car show this weekend...we went today. ended up getting some 03 wrangler rims, brand new, and a different jeep spare (wrong bolt pattern...what are they? not 5 on 4.5 like we thought) for my brother's truck (gordy) xj skid for gordy 3 dated military jerry cans (for gordy) cherokee push bar which is modeled on my sport truck 78 chevy pushbar...looks small for a chevy, and is perfect for a jeep with slight mods (complete with fogs) wrangler (tj i think?) rear fender flares (they were 5 bucks, why not?) and a chevy yukon (or something) OHC which is perfect fit for my mj... and four oem xj switches...2 fog, 2 rear wiper/defroster (that's where they're going in my truck..i already have 4 fog switches in the dash...don't really need more but what the heck, they're cool... :P I spent 75 bucks, my brother spent 400, and his friend bought brand new aftermarket 17" rims/tires for his 05 jetta diesel for 950[/img]

that's EXACTLY what i had in mind

make sure the plugs are long enough thread for the 4.0...SPECIFY what vehicle they are for when you buy them...one of my trucks ran like crap when i got it with them 4 prong plugs...they weren't long enough, and weren't even tightend down (3 were not even in threaded in

yea the PO probably added switch panels outta a cherokee. and it's your fusebox causing the problems...if it had bad spots, i suggest you pull it loose and look behind it. if you can take it apart and clean it, try that. should help at least. does your radio work? most likely not...that's tied into the cig lighter

it's right behind the battery, a 1/2 inch (i believe) nut with a bunch of power wires hooked up to it, and 3 or 4 prongs which have wires leading from them... ? that.... would be the starter relay. your loss of lights, wipers, and cig. lighter is a fusebox problem... could be simply bad fuses but... I would venture to say it's a manual, and that the master cylinder is/was leaking at some point. common problem on the trucks...resulting in corroded wires at the fusebox from clutch fluid leaking on it (highly corrosive) check fuses. if corroded...well, best of luck.

they will go to 999 thousand. everything rols to 9 then starts over at 0

not in MY house! haha, a friend of mine works for a farmer/tractor repair guy who keeps two of those at a time...when one dies (7 year lifespan is normal), he replaces it with a puppy....they're spread about 3 years apart. but they're his guard dogs...funny thing is that they're MEAN to everyone who doesn't belong there, but I'm not afraid of them so they don't bother me...not even if i come in when they're closed or anything. standing on their rear feet, they're easily a foot taller than me...and i'm 6'2" they eat lots and crap more...horse apples are NOTHING compared to these guys' crap...

ungh. i put in the new ujoints on the front axle, new brake shoes as the rotors and calipers were nice, and replaced the hole in the floor...and got the hi-beams to work :cheers: :brows: so mjcanoe, I took your advice on tightening the torque converter, and it WORKED! :D BUT.... the flexplate to crankshaft bolts are lose. no wonder it's running choppy...the CPS isn't getting a good reading. :eek: SO i have to pull the tranny...got started by draining the fluid. new too...what a shame. noticed that the drain plug is stripped as well (not my doing). the tranny pan needs a new gasket as well, so time for a new filter (if it doesn't have a new one already...won't hold my breath). I'm SOOOOOOO PISSED AND THE PO RIGHT NOW! how the #%* do you put in a tranny without torquing the flexplate or torque converter, and without snugging up the bellhousing bolts (only one held it in), and without properly sealing the tranny pan with a new gasket?! :hateputers: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: it's off the market for a few days while I fix it...postponed a day while I go to madison with some friends, but trying to get it done by monday at noon. if not then postpone again til tuesday...i start rehab on monday for my ankle (like i need it...i've been walking on it the whole time) :nuts: !@#$@#%)&*(_^$)(#*&^@#!&*($^!@_##%&$@#%*()#@!*()$&()#!%*^(#)*@%^!@#*(^@~&*(#%^!@*&~#%^)_@$*_#%&*#@(^(!@#%*~&@#^ and i just need the cash...but now i gotta spend some to make some. what happened to easy transactions and worthwhile purchases? scratch the last part, it was 200 bucks :D

jb, I would have had some but that mail xj ended up in the hands of a mail-person as their parts machine. I will keep my eyes peeled!

no but my dog (jack) licks the glovebox door thw whole time we drive. 9 month old australian shepherd...how i hate him the little brat is ALL OVER THE PLACE

tested more things with the noid light, pulled on a few connections, and it works ??? :nuts: so that's fixed. also fixed the hole in the floor, front ujoints, and the lose torque converter. last thing to do is remove and weld the exhaust manifold. i'm hoping it (this is the sport truck) leaves by monday...a guy is interested in it at 1500 + 500 for the snow plow...

Pete, how did i figure that would be the case?

yes, that comes out. here's the how-to 1 open the hood. 2 drain coolant and a/c frion (if you have it) 3. disconnect wires to heater fan (rear right side of engine compartment...if viewing from driver's seat) 4. disconnect heater lines and a/c lines going into the firewall by the heater fan 5. there are approx. 6 bolts going through the firewall in that area...4 in plain site (after taking coolant bottle and bracket out of the way), and 2 directly behind the engine block. remove those 6. go inside and pick up where you left off...accept you DON'T need to take any of the heaterbox apart. just disconnect wiring and vacuum hoses and the whole black heaterbox will pop out. careful of antifreeze spills. you gotta drain fluids for that project...the box can't be disassembled in the dash I did this to get an a/c heaterbox box out of a cherokee I had to put in my comanche. reverse to install new one. be a smart mechanic and lay in the new wiring harness and dash mounts first

Alright, I've now replaced the hi-beam switch and tested it with my digi voltmeter...it works, hi beams don't. Replaced the actual headlight switch, didn't help. between stages I have been checking for power to the headlight connector. I have none to the hi-beams (white wire), and power to the lows. I even disassembled the connector. no change. SO it's something with the wire...yay for crappy old wiring! I'm taking the harness apart at the firewall, cleaning the connectors, and putting it back together. if that doesn't work, the new owner will get it without hi-beams, as I also need to tighten up the torque converter, replace the bad section of floor, and replace the exhaust manifold (crack). I want the truck done by sunday...I already replaced the front ujoints (today, was pretty easy) and put in new front brake pads blah i hate projects, but for the money i will get back on the truck, it's worth the hassle.

I hate yotas. well, no I don't, but I want the Chief stripes, but am too cheap to pay to have decals made, and my bottom edge needs to have the "chip guard" (orange peal???) removed anyways. kill 2 birds w/ one stone. the bottom of the door will most likely say COMANCHE, but no Chief and no 3800 I'd like to have comanche decals and 4x4 decalse done up in black to put in the stock locations (4x4 in rear upper corner of the side of the bed) Perhaps just black from where the orange peel is down (4 inches) and then the comanche and 4x4 decals?

I replaced the Hi/low switch. everything else is as it was