JeepcoMJ

go for it! let us know!

like i said, what i tried didn't work. breaker bar didn't work, and ironically in as big a shop as I have, i didn't have space to get it in...so it's driving the way it is for now. I'll get it out by heating it w/ a torch. have a new nut so worse comes to worse I can use a hammer and chisel to get it loose. i've got a few tricks up my sleeve, but just no space to do it...fixing 3 lawnmowers, got the t-bird in the way, my bunch of snowmobiles to be parted out, etc. so i'll git-r-done sometime in the next 500 miles. i'm doing the oil change on the pavement tomorrow...which i thought would be easy, except that with the 3.8 while you DO have easy access to the oil filter, you DON'T have easy access for it to drain...i have to place a small pan under the oil filter so it doesn't run all over the skid plate and leak from 5 different places on that...no biggy, i don't even have to get under it for that :D just to undo and retighten the drain plug :D yay 3800! Lt1 coming soon...j/k but i should have done that from the start...

me either.

I meant a torque gun...high power 1/2 inch drive. couldn't get it off w/ that, nor a breaker bar :(

don't feel so bad, there will be two idiots trying to figure this one out :cheers: by the way....we need some beer when we work on the trucks, then things won't hurt so much it's not too easy...you have to build up the weld on the bolt w/o welding to the side, and build it up enough to set a nut up then weld the nut to the first weld you made. if you follow. kinda tricky, but if you can weld strong welds then you should be able to accomplish it.

try welding the nut to it first. if that doesn't work, you need a hammer and a center punch, punch the center of the bolt, then proceed to drill.

front or rear? does yes cover it? I know you have the fronts available since you upgraded...was asking about them. how about your rears? shoot me a pm or call me about it

I could use that carrier to get tatersalad operational again...shoot me a pm if you are interested in getting rid of it. :D

it's 3.538 something...so yeah, 3.54. my cell phone showed 3.53...but yes, I've got 3.54 gears! the carrier was OK, but the spiders were junk...still good enough to get from a to b...with hopping. here's what the spiders that i wrecked so I put these in out of my other 86 and put the wrecked ones back in it so i can move it on the property the other truck has 39 to 11 teeth I believe....not sure if that's right I didn't count, just went by some of the numbers...not sure they're the right ones. but the 3800 is fixed and operational..the rear axle needs a new front seal, but I couldn't get the yoke bolt off even with the torque wrench so that's another day.

hmm...so you're saying i need a HP dana 44 front axle w/ the same gears as the 8.8 then? 8) :brows:

lol. my 3.8 has more balls than a stock 4.0 :brows: ...i KNEW it was gonna blow. (it's 200hp and 225 ft/lbs. torque stock...this one has the cold air, my custom headers which allow higher flow, high flow exhaust all the way through, AND a coil pack upgrade/reprogrammed computer to give it more...I'm sure if I dyno tested it she'd be about 215 horse and about 250 torque or somewhere in there) I'm just swapping ring gears out of a parts truck...less work and no brake bleeding :D anyone ever scrap the roll pin and put a bolt in? I'm thinking of threading the part where the roll pin goes on the spider...I don't like having to remove the bearing caps to punch out the roll pin.

the other 86 had 3.54 gears i believe...but i'm going by the stamp on the ring saying 39 and 11. I'll count later to be sure...the spiders are matching between the two. so for now, i'm putting the good ones in my truck, and the junk ones (which still sorta work) in the 86. that way I can DD and if i need to move the 86 I can.

your dash will have to come out and you have to change the ENTIRE heater box assembly...it's the easiest way. so find a junkyard one with complete a/c. tear out the dash, disconnect the heaterbod (6 bolts through the firewall and some wires/hoses), save the a/c hoses, get the condensor and dryer, and the a/c pump and bracket. it's basically bolt in. you may wish to pressure test it before you reinstall it though. not sure how to do that

it blew the spider gears...3 of them are missing a combined 7 teeth...i could only find 6 teeth and some other shards. so for now, I'm pushing the roll pin out, sliding the spiders out, and then I'm gonna do the same on my other 86 and swap spiders...i need it driving and that won't cost any $$$. it's got 3.53 gears...ratio of 46 ring to 13 pinion. so I'm debating on what to do at the moment...the 8.8 i was getting is 3.73 gears. I will probably get it and perhaps my other 86 has 3.73's so I can just swap the front carrier? we'll see...but I think i DEFINITELY need the rear upgrade with how i drive...

lol, the 8.8 will perhaps be in my truck soon...so the front will need to be lifted (wade, help me out on this...what do you want for them 4.5" springs?). I blew something in my rear end today on the turdy-five. i think it's just a spider but idk if i should spend the $$$ to fix it when i don't really want it anyways... but once it's done, i'll come down. i've decided the 3800 will see some wheeling time, and I'll just be careful.

heat, goo-gone, wipe down. then do your basic sanding/dent removal and paint the truck what color are you going john?

wow...yeah, i'm intending for the frame to be AGAINST the floors....that's a halfass job.

bahahahaha! plans for a lift and 4wd? :cheers: :brows:

i think a spider gear is broken, or ring gear, or cracked, or whatever. but my rear end jerks and hops...i'll know more tomorrow when I pull the cover off. I can get an 8.8 rear end from a 98 ford with disc brakes...complete end to end for cheap. what do I need to do to my brake lines and ebrake lines to make this work? I already know what I need for the driveshaft so i'm not interested in info on that, and i already know it's 1" narrower so no info needed on what i gotta do there. all i need to know is either A. what could be the symptom of my rear end...it's not making noises except when it jerks and hops, which is every once in a while when i give it a bit of gas. or B. what's needed for the rear discs to function. It's already got an xj proportioning valve...but idk if the master cylinder is good enough for discs, what I need, if my lines are up to par, etc.

I'd not use a razor blade or you will have more smoothing work to do b4 paint

a heat gun. hair dryer will work about half as good but a good heat gun can't be beat. like 40 bucks for one with a cooling feature too. I use mine for everything from bumper stickers to window stickers to decals, and I also use it every 2 years to pull the registration stickers off my snowmobiles and put the new ones on. you'll need something like that, then some goo-gone or some sticky residue remover to get it clean.

haha, i like how you haven't even taken the door panels or the b-pillar trim off yet... but that helps.

jb, i think we need pics...

and mudrunt, do you have pics by any chance? I need some brainstorming ideas...and that will help.

PERFECT! now I can keep it on the stock frame rails. I will have to do some customized stuff as I'm going to be using from the rear seat forward on a 2 door cherokee as the cab with a comanche back portion for the rear window, and either shortening my comanche box or finding a shortbed one and changing that as needed. that should keep most of the rigidity of the frame in good order...but an interior roll cage will still be in the works. I think that will just look tough.