JeepcoMJ

I'm lookin for offers colton. I'd like somewhere around there but we will see. Pete, It isn't for sale yet, but yes, when it is, I will either post it up there OR I will ask you to move it if that would be alright? i don't want to yet because perhaps by some miracle I will get to keep it? I'm out of work and have some uh...legal...things on my hands at the moment that may or may not result in it needing to go. plus if I sell it....I may be able to get a nice lift? (sorry i'm trying to rationalize it...)

well guys, this thing is gonna be for sale soon... I am fixing the 1 rust hole on the floor, removing surface rust from it, and undercoating the truck. also, I will be installing the new intake/exhaust manifold gasket and a replacement exhaust manifold with no leaks, and a new exhaust donut. I am also installing the new heavy duty front greasable Ujoints and new front brake pads. I removed the chrome grille and painted a nice 10-slotter and some nice headlight doors bumper black. it looks really good. I removed the windshield visor, cleaned up the small surface rust where the holes were, and put some black-headed rivets in the holes with some silicone so they look good and don't leak. this thing is: 1987 Sport truck 4.0 (runs good could use tune-up) aw4 column shift auto (shifts nicely) np231 tranny (works great) CAD dana 30 front axle (CAD operates correctly, 4x4 light works on cluster) dana 35 rear end (idk what gearing this thing has) black with maroon interior and original comanche maroon bucket seats and full center console new axle Ujoints new exhaust from manifold back (manifold is nice used manifold) including catalytic converter and glass pack looks to be a newer gas tank, and even the fuel pump sounds and operates like new. fresh undercoat, replaced bad portion in the floor has dummy gauges 4 pane split rear window bed-mat decent toolbox Kenwood tape deck Kenwood door speakers 118,000 on the ticker clear title. (and 3 sets of keys) stock steel rims go with it, but I may be persuaded to part with the ZJ rims. typical rust over fender flares in rear, some rust bubbles on the truck. driver's side over the fender flare is the worst of the rust. I don't know what I am looking to get out of it, so go ahead and make me a serious offer. any ???s go ahead and PM me

:P someone told me to put a tb spacer with some "vortex technology" on my 3800 that's in the MJ...i don't have enough room to fit it :( but "vortex technology" sounds really cool :D

sound like a ground problem or the gauge sending unit gone bad/gotten stuck in the gas tank.

remove the overload spring and you'll get more flex. that's one of mine...stock springs but it's SOA. edit: [see what Pete says below....]

paint the console with plastic paint and use vinyl dye on the armrest. it'll work and look good.

:D

hmm...too bad man, I have an original comanche center console with it's bezel insert AND original stock comanche buckets and female belt ends...they're all in my sport truck but man they'd look perfect in yours.

alright, i like it, BUT looking at your longarm makes me uneasy on 2 counts. first, why did you tie them into the stock crossmember? one real solid hit will bend them all to heck...you're good enough at metal fab. that you could have made a reinforced crossmember and had nothing to worry about. second, with your longarms, why did you make the "towers" for the upper arm links so hi? that is gonna rob you of flex if I'm not mistaken? I really like it, i just think you will run into trouble on the front end there...those towers look as though they will either hit your muffler, starter, or oil pan (possibly even bellhousing).

the having it stolen point is what just got me...i say ditch it and get a rollbar and throw 2 on it and 2 on the front bumper.

that light is connected to your light switch. when you turn on your lights, that light comes on and your gauge cluster lights come on. to check for shorts, about the best you can do is look at the back of the gauge cluster and see if anything looks corroded. check your connector for corrosion AND see if it's plugged in all the way. also see if your gauge lights come on when you turn your running lights on. if they don't, then you have a wiring gremlin. put your old cluster back in and see if everything works then. if it does, then you need a different full gauge cluster as that one is dysfunctional.

bad connectors? and check the circuit board thing like I said. oh, did you swap out the oil pressure and temperature sending units to the gauge type? your temp and oil pressure gauges will not work if you didn't...

I can only wish Toyota would buy the Jeep name. A reliable Jeep! It would be awesome if Toyota bought Jeep! GM buying Jeep would be worse than what DC has done to the brand in the last few years. haha, yeah cause look at the last time GM was involved in jeep...it resulted in the 2.8 being put into production... Toyota would be good, but I just don't know if I'm OK with the orientals running my beloved corporation. I say we have Jay Leno buy out Jeep and then we can all get a nice hood emblem shaped like his head from factory...he's got the money :D

flip the wires that go into it over. i don't think it's possible to put them upside down but perhaps you have. furthermore, what engine option is in your truck, and what option was in the truck the gauges came out of? generally, it's best to attempt to swap out items from similarly equipped vehicles. but it's a wiring issue OR the "circuit board" on the back of your gauge cluster could have shorts in it. oh! is the new cluster out of a high output unit? or is your truck a HO and the cluster out of a regular 4.0? Jeep reversed sensor polarity or something like that in 1991.

nice manche, i like the plans for the front bumper too man.

yea don't bother upgrading axles unless you're putting something worthwhile in. if you're going SOA anyways in the rear, it would be about the same amount of work to put an 8.8 rear end in, with the exception of having to do some brake lines. I would say go with a 4.10 dana 30 non-disco front end from a cherokee, but reinforce it's mounts and such while you have it out, and a explorer 8.8 disc break rear end. make it a truck worthwhile... i GUARANTEE that if you're running 33's on a dana 35 rear end, as Eagle has said before, it no longer becomes a question of IF the rear will blow, but WHEN.

Then I'd say dump the 5.2 and get the manche, but ask for around $800 as well.

you need the entire cherokee to do that swap...tranny, 4wd linkages, engine, wiring, header and radiator support, hood. I like simple swaps that keep things clean cut and less work.

it's worth it but I would NOT keep the stock 2.8 in that truck. those are junk. I drove one for a long time and it is now a 3.8 camaro optioned truck, my gas mileage increased from 7 mpg (with only 31" tires...those are bigger) to 19-22 mpg.

uh, well, the mj gets worse gas mileage than the 5.2 i guarantee it. and it doesn't have the towing power of the 5.2 BUT that 2.8 is easily remedied with a 3.4 swap. I would take the comanche because I like it bette rthan the dodge. and the comanche looks real straight too. how much is the 5.2 worth? that MJ isn't worth 2 grand, so I think you're probably not getting the greatest deal if it's straight up trade....perhaps make some money AND trade for the comanche at the same time?

ooooh that ground clearance is AMAZING! man jeep's engineers suck. they need to LOOK at consumers and find out what we want. and CONSUMERS DO NOT entail soccer moms and stuck up rich dudes who think they're cool cause they own a....jeep? sorry to Pete and those of you with a libby. I do think the "older" libby's are cool, but as alex says...this is OLD. it's all the same now...

front header panel, all the ligths for it, fenders if you are going with new front bumper and flares, bumper in that case too. and the lighting harness as well. you will have to wire it to your stock connector.

and I'm putting this on it if i get it.

Lund visor and chrome grille taken from my 87 sport. the visor is just set on and will be two-toned black and white new teeth tip it up a bit and paint it white/black

all I have for lifts are 3" rough country kits, all of which are AAL's. my brother has put 17000 miles on his and his rear end is back to stock height. they're stiff, unless you have weight in them. and then if you have weight in them, they go bad quicker. they're just not worth the hassle. save the money and buy quality replacement springs.