JeepcoMJ

that tail light and gauge cluster looks familiar...

I don't think anyone NEEDS one, we just want a stock one to say "look, i have a cargo lamp and you don't" and have it be original.

they go soft pretty quick and you lose the lift faster. adding a completely new spring pack is the best way if it's going to be permanent.

make a bastard pack...add one more full length spring out of a stock comanche.

it'll be off. you'll be filling the reservoir as you go. keep it at least half full so that you don't suck any more air into the system. remember, the goal is to get the air out...and that means no more coming in.

don't do an add a leaf

yuppers mine clicks

run it with the cap off so the air bubbles out. it has no way to escape. there's a trick to filling a 4.0...I can't remember if you're supposed put the truck facing downhill or uphill....uphill I think. that way the bubbles get out. someone correct me if I'm wrong. closed systems are a b*tch. you'd be best off removing the closed system and getting a full-core heavy duty radiator with a filler neck built into it...and eliminate the closed system.

welcome, the name's Pat btw

I think I may be forced to let someone else make improvements on it...but I'm fixing what needs fixed before I decide for sure. got the new U-joints today, have the new galvanized sections for the floor, and i have the idler bearing and exhaust manifold gaskets on order. any tips on taking the exhaust manifold off while the engine is in the truck? i don't want to remove the intake if I can avoid it.

Twisty, I'm HAPPY that you're saving the truck...so no worries on the interior. suggestion though....if you upgrade the drivetrain, follow my lead :D I'll help you in ANY way I can, no matter what...just let me know what ya need from me :D

just get a set of front cherokee floor pans (left + right) and cut out the bad stuff, lay them in, fill in anything else that's bad, and if you don't have a welder, rivet them in and caulk them up. if you have a welder, just spot weld them. put new bolts for your seats in and there you go...spend about $200 on floor pans I think and some extra sheet metal... and do the 2x3 tube on the rockers...that way it'll be tough and DD/trail ready. 20 hours of work and you'll be good :D

that's dirty

have a car jack? that'll take the worry off the axle bein heavy.

who me? :eek: couldn't be... I just wanna get one of these going good enough to go :driving: offroad and not have to :wrench: my road truck anymore

I'm with ya when the sport is ready :D give me a couple months...I've got some good plans for the thing, so much the better IF you go longarm....

so I know you don't get to drive the willy's, but do ya think your dad would let me? :eek: j/k :D

oh, and grease the hell outta everything when you put it back together. if it's a moving part, chances are it needs to be inspected thoroughly, if not replaced. best time for replacements on Ujoints, hub bearings, and ball joints is while it's out of the truck.

just don't go insanely wide on the tires or you will need to trim or get a lift.

Easy, disconnect the control arms, brakes (perhaps leave the calipers connected to the brake lines and zip-tie them up to something so you don't have to bleed your brakes), disco the sway bar and steering (if the tie rods don't come off easy, take it off at the steering box and take care of them while it's out of the truck) and drop her down. haha, make sure you support the frame rails so the truck doesn't nose-dive on top of you...(saw almost kill himself doin that...he had the axle he was taking out supported but not the truck :nuts: )

post up some pictures of the floor so that we can help you judge how bad it is...I don't want to see another MJ murdered even tho I want that interior...

yea I'm right confused about things now....

one tip on switching steering columns. NEVER disconnect the splined shaft that runs from the column to the steering box AT THE FIREWALL! if you do that, you have to try and center it back on....basically it's a b*tch and you will now have to realign your vehicle (steering wheel will not be inline with tires). instead, disconnect the shaft AT the steering box. there's only one way it can go on and still have the bolt that tightens it fit. remove the 2 bolts holding it to the firewall, and the two that hold it to the dash. you will need the kneeboard out for this swap. then you simply disconnect the wires and swap the new one in (providing of course you didn't screw up and get one that has different connectors). remember, DO NOT DISCONNECT THE SPLINED STEERING COLUMN TO STEERING BOX SHAFT AT THE FIREWALL! save yourself the trouble, you will have less of a headache and it will be much simpler to adjust it.

(while we're puttin in the new 3.8 camaro motor) So those are 31x10.50 dayton timberline a/t's. I DO have a 3" lift kit from Rough Country which was $400. I ordered all the extras with it though. it's a bolt in kit and is very easy to install, and VERY smooth and stable. I love the lift, but personally think that the 31's look stuffed in there...I'd like a 4.5 inch lift with the 31's on my truck (with an eventual upgrade to 32's). hopefully those pics help.