JeepcoMJ

grismj86 had an 88 eliminator

not sure what grit...that's a ??? for someone else. I'd say something between medium and fine but no clue what exact... just not course cause you don't want gouges, just smoothness.

no, i want the hoops for the headlights, I just don't want them to curve around the side. i want ones like this ideas or BETTER ideas? :D

I really like it. just wet sand the runs and defects, and respray 1 last coat and there you go.

hey, like the title says, I'm trying to figure out where to get a nice brushguard from. and I mean brushguard...I don't need an ARB bumper or any heavy duty bumper. Specifically, I am looking to keep my factory bumper. I'm gonna eventually make my own mount for a winch that ties into the factory bumper. so I guess what I'm looking for is a bumper mount brush guard with the hoops around the lights OR even better, one that's the same design BUT loops around the bottom of the bumper and ties into the frame. Ideas? 89eliminator has the style I'm looking for, except I don't want the light hoops to angle back and cover the corner lights. sorry for stealin your pic wade

happy to oblige twist. the shop is my dad's shop. it's pretty run-down and needs a new roof. he's self-employed as a mechanic of sorts (tractors and snowmobiles and diesel trucks). we got lucky when we bought the house...this came with it. and a HUGE barn that we only have some chickens in and somewhere around 75 or 80 parts snowmobiles (and counting) and all my jeep parts. that's the non-heated end and entry-way. pay the sport truck and the t-bird no heed that's the mid-garage door and wall that seperates the heated end from the non-heated end that's how long it is. again...ignore the jeeps for the moment heated end that goes to the non-heated end more of it

decided to finally clean and paint the nice front bumper I had with the 2 guards on it. so here's the truck with the bumper off new bumper with my fogs mounted up already. the old bumper is layin there too just gotta swap the liscense plate and bracket, and bolt on the bumper ends. done no? NO! I had 2 more fogs and a spare factory fog switch....so put your head together, drill a hole and you get.... THIS! with the caps on... So I like it with the new chrome grille and 4 fogs that I don't need :P next project is to sand the window-visor and paint it and put it on...I'm using closed-end nutserts/rivnuts ---they're "blind" nuts that you "rivet" into metal and then ya throw a bolt down in there. That way I can remove the visor once a year and clean under it so that I don't get any rust up top. also, they will not leak like the sheetmetal screws that came with it could potentially. what do y'all think?

you need the cable and the bracket for the tranny (they are different between the column and the floor shift) that will be cheap from the JY and it's all plug and play. converting the cherokee seats is no big deal if they're manual seats (power is a PITA) and all you need is a drill, a punch and hammer and some high-grade 7/16 bolts with lock-nuts. take the seat brackets off the bucket seats (4 bolts to remove the bottom cushion then 4 more to remove the brackets), and drill out the spot welds and rivets that hold the lower part of the brackets to the sliders. then you will need to do the same on your bench seat (careful to save the lower brackets on the bench...) and then put those ones under the cherokee sliders. make sure you have them positioned where you want them, put a 7/16 hole through (or use the hole the rivet was in), and bolt them down. then re-assemble the seat. it's really not that hard and you could have it done in a matter of hours. you will need the bucket seat female seatbelt ends as well. then for a full length center console you will just need the console, the bottom of the heater box, and the middle and rear brackets for it. doing it this way will be cheaper...cause the MJ brackets sell for about $130 used. I sold a pair of stock MJ bucket seats for $240 but the seats were really nice.

his was more likely changed steering columns. DO NOT remove the cable...cause then the key won't come out. you'd have to disassemble the entire column and remove that mechanism

scrap your shifter handle, it's not worth trying to get just the cables. go to the jy, get a shift handle AND the cable for it all in one go. you'll also need the pan that screws into the hump below the shifter. the shift cable is held onto the trans. by a bracket with 2 bolts, i believe 12 mm. and then it's clipped onto the shift linkage. get one from the same model transmission and engine you have...that way it's the right piece. you'll also want to switch out your gauge cluster to one that doesn't have the column shift indications, which is no big deal. but basically, remove the column-shift steering column and cable, place the new one in, cut the hole in your carpet over the hump and bolt down the shifter, then route the new shift cable. you will also need a center console for a floor shifter and the bracketry to screw that to. a tip on the steering column..you DO NOT want to disconnect the steering column to steering box shaft AT THE FIREWALL as it doesn't have a keyed spline...disconnect it at the steering box on both trucks. that way, you will just insert the new steering column and hook it up. the steering box side can only go on one way. doing that will save you from needing a serious steering realignment.

awesome john!

yup. and in that case, don't worry about it unless you can't remove the key...in which case just reach down and pull on that :D

hahaha, I've got my nice comanche, which is on the road, this sport truck, which could be on the road in about 10 minutes (after a few hours wait at the DMV), the other white one (project tatersalad), and have had 1 parts cherokee, and now that i tally correctly, 3 parts comanches (2 2.5's, 1 4.0). I owned a vw cabrio when i started building my 3800 almost 3 years ago, a chevy g-van with a 5.2 diesel (rolled 6 times while on loan to my grandpa's workers to go to indiana), and a mercedes 300SD that had a rusted under-carriage (the engine from that is now in a mid-engine sandrail). 2 sandrails somewhere in there, and my very, very first car was a 1973 vw Baja beetle with a teepee stinger exhaust. :P that's all between age 15 and 20.

nope, your steering column is out of a 2.8 or 2.5 auto truck. IIRC you would not have the ittle switch next to the ignition that you have to push so that you can remove the keys? that is what that cable is for. with the auto, when you shift into neutral, allows the ignition to be turned back so you can remove the keys.

get rid of all the MJ's? haha, man i would NEVER do that! the 3800 is a father/son project and it reall means alot to me...I want to have it when my kids get their liscense so that they can put around with it every once in a while or something...it's very sentimental. that's the ONE reason that it doesn't see any off-road use...I really do love the thing. The black truck may or may not leave...it really all depends on how things go. I have it almost ready to go at the moment and will decide on selling it when this is all done with...depending on how court goes. but if I don't sell it then ALL my money is for court right now... i hate being an ignorant 20 year old kid who does before he thinks... :P

thanks twisty, yea this could wreck me...well, at least hamper me down. I'm looking at it as a learning experience. I made a mistake and now God or someone is trying to set me right. sometimes people make mistakes, and the way I see it, the only thing to do is take a step forward...

that ain't for the heater...it's too big for that as far as I can tell. lostissues, trail it...we need to know...

bwahaha nice man. uh...so where exactly does that go? I'm thinking that it's for the cruise control and that someone simply routed it into the firewall rather than hook it to the throttle body. haha, is it for the gas pedal? them's the 2 things I see it could be...

$236 to be exact. and if the NSS switch is causing a no-start situation, here's the quick fix. take the B (black) and C (black and white) wire on the NSS side of the connector (next to the tranny dipstick by the firewall), and cut them apart on the switch side of the connector, not on the motor side (that way you can replace the switch with no need for re-splicing the original engine harness). back to the wires...splice the B and C together (you can tell which is which cause the connector labels them) and there's your start. BUT it will now start in every gear...so make sure you watch what gear you're in.

lostissues, we need a picture of this...cause if it's a manual...i have NO idea why it's there...

hahahaha LMFAO! does it still have the nut on it? and is there one on your tranny? oh! oh! let me guess your backup lights don't work either do they?!

hahaha, what?!

http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoNSSrebuild.htm that's what you need to know. don't loosen the nut too far or you'll strip the threads off and ruin the switch.

safe bet that I'd give up my 3800 for it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Ste ... 2854QQrdZ1 check that out.