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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ
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the power steering pump is leaking. the 3800 has the CPS placed right up front of the motor behind the balancer wheel on the crank. the power steering pump is to the left and above it...and it's leaking very mildly from the front seal. anyways, when it's running the fluid gets spun towards the crankshaft, and it hit the CPS and somehow got into the connectors. sprayed everything with brake clean, put it back together with dialectic grease stuff, and presto it starts. stupid thing to have happen...i'm keeping brake clean and the 9/32 socket with me at all times now (or at least until i replace the power steering pump) once i register the other truck this will be parked and i will go over every connection, clean them, dialectic them, and put them back together. I wanna re-route the starter wire as well...it's a little bit close to the left header for me to be comfortable...
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oh, i had a family friend who owns a salvage/wrecking business come get me with his flatbed truck. he only charged me $1 per mile...so 50 bucks. BUT that wasn't in my budget...always happens like that doesn't it? :cry:
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ungh so it died today. driving down highway 12 south from whitewater, WI to burlington, WI. 7 miles out from whitewater...it just stopped running. no noises, no clanks, whirs, just felt loss of power and watched the RPM's drop to nada when i pushed the clutch. I had just refueled it...so it may be bad gas. i put in premium though, so i don't think it's that. fuel pump works, fuses to computer are good, the VATS bypass i built that overrides the antitheft (fuel enable/disable) works, I tested that with my voltmeter on the side of the road...the fuel injectors ARE being grounded, and have power. checked for spark by undoing a plug, and cranking it while grounding the plug. either it wasn't grounded right or it doesn't have spark. SO right now, it's one of 5 things. 1. faulty ECU 2. faulty coil pack (1 coil per 2 cylinders..no distributor on the 3.8) 3. faulty crankshaft positioning sensor 4. short in wires, corroded connections 5. water or other agent in fuel. i know you guys probably don't know the Camaro 3.8 well if at all, but is there something i could be overlooking?
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sorry, i read nitrous. why do you need Co2?
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why do you have nitrous
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alex, grismj86, had an 88 eliminator. now, unless it was from late 88 and was actually an 89 mis-titled as an 88, that would seem to make the first year for eliminators 1988.
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the first one is a joke...I own one and it's getting bolted to my 1 up snowmobile trailer because it's not any good for anything but pulling old tanks of sleds up (my dad buys/fixes/sells/parts out/restores snowmobiles and other craft). I will look into the second one...
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New 2.5 MJ project...Now a 4.0 H.O. project
JeepcoMJ replied to CEThomas's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
4. do what 89eliminator did and chop the wheel openings out of a 2 door cherokee. they aren't the same in height, but are the same in length...use the upper half as it should be an EXACT replacement of your bad spots. your flairs aren't too bad, it's just the top...well, except maybe the right side looks like it's pulled outwards pretty good in one pic. save the bed. flatbed just won't look right for your application i think... -
New 2.5 MJ project...Now a 4.0 H.O. project
JeepcoMJ replied to CEThomas's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I'm likin the project so far man. what're ya doin about the box? -
thanks Charles, that's PERFECT for what I need. haha, i think this truck is more of a mall-crawler anyways...but If i ever build a wheeling-specific truck I will be doing the same thing so why not build, and build again and better?
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it doesn't show up. goes to the main page.
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nope, not at ALL what i'm talking about. I'm cutting out the bumper from between the mounts inwards and from halfway down on up, then building a winch mount that follows the contours of the bumper while jutting forward. it will have sort of a "clamshell" cover over the winch that will lock down with a mechanical latch similar in function to the 4wd shifter and linkages that will be hidden under/behind the bumper. just pull down on it and it will open the top, allowing me to access the winch AND the small storage area for clevis/tow hook and possibly the tow strap. that's why I need types and dimensions, so that I can decide on what to use based on size and power. hopefully that will give you guys a better idea of what i'm looking for...
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alright so I'm gonna do a custom winch bumper that incorporates the stock bumper. it's also going to cover the winch. I need to know, what kind of winches do you guys have, what prices they run at, what I should be looking for, and another very important thing is to know what the measurements (base, width, height, depth) of each specific example you give me is. also, pros and cons would be helpful.
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Who's using steering reinforcement plates or braces?
JeepcoMJ replied to 88MJay's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
duct tape works pretty good... j/k. IDK anything about them but would like to learn :D -
Project Tetanus - H4s & Herculiner
JeepcoMJ replied to UNL1MTD's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
best of wishes to ya then, keep us updated :D -
nope, so it looks like a 4 door comanche (cheromanche) with a really short box.
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Project Tetanus - H4s & Herculiner
JeepcoMJ replied to UNL1MTD's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
shoulda just put the 4wd front axle in right now...that way all you do when you actually convert it is bolt in the trans, shift linkages, tcase, and driveshafts AND you wouldn't look like a poser then...unless they look close -
I did the same swap 3 weeks ago on a 96 2 door cherokee...so i'm quite familiar with the system. I locktite-d everything then too. the dowels are there, (i'm sure of that as that's all that was holding it from FALLING APART :rotf: ) and Idk what he did. but everything looks good and works it feels like the engine needs a bit of a tuneup, but for the $$$ i spent where could I go wrong? I've put some more $$$ into it now though, and hopefully soon I can get what I want outta the truck. It will be 100% mechanically functional, and zero rust on the bottom. just some rust bubbles and typical fender flair rust...I'm debating if I should fix that and paint it (i've never painted a gosh darn car before) or leave it for someone who knows about it to take care of it.
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put the back half of a manche cab on it so it's closed in, then cut the back in the middle and make it so it's got a tailgate. upgrade rear end, and wheel/DD it. looks like someone else already did all the hard stuff for ya :D
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I think he means the sway bar connectors. and your option is to either buy the stock ones and buy a sway bar drop kit or buy some aftermarket ones (prolly disconnect type), OR you can use the bent up ones you have and lengthen them out.
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Project Tetanus - H4s & Herculiner
JeepcoMJ replied to UNL1MTD's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
so did you leave it 2wd or convert it to 4wd? what's the plan there? -
thx twist. I got some nut-serts for my visor today but they're aluminum :( so I'm debating on what to do...I want to use stainless so that It won't rust or corrode. and I got the auto body shop who did my paint to give me a paint chip for the color my truck is so now I can color match the visor after I sand and prime it. i'm painting the visor white, but then painting the sides of it black to match the black trim that will be above my doors (currently don't have any). furthermore...I may have a lineup on a 97 exploder 8.8 with 3.73's for 50 bucks and it just needs rotors and pads (warped and worn). any tips on what to look for on the 8.8 before I say yes? I do intend to weld the tubes to the diff housing and most likely this will be SOA when I put it in so that I can remove my AAL's and then lift the front 2 to 3 more inches.
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thanks, I was wondering about that since it came loose again... I don't think this was a case of them "coming loose" so much as it is a case of them "never being tightened" ...I got the PO to confess to being a dummy and forgetting to tighten all 4 T/C bolts, and the top 2 torque bolts, right side 18mm bolt, and not putting in the dipstick bolt, on top of messing up the install of the dust cover (it was forked under the upper cover and rubbing the flex plate and T/C bolts). thanks mjcanoe! I will follow your wisdom :D
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Rough Country 3" lift came with new LCA's, front coils, sway bar drop, new shocks all around, new steering stabilizer, brake line extensions too. i really like the front end...the back end is fine, but it's AAL so it's just a matter of when it starts to sag rather than if. I would simply stay away from AAL's and spend the money on new springs in the rear. that's my 2 cents.
