JeepcoMJ

this has been covered before I'm sure. but I'm trying to sell my 87 sport. the hi-beams don't work, and I've put a different switch in it. still don't work, so either I have two bad switches (unlikely) or it has a bad relay or something. both lights have working hi-beams, i've tested them on my other truck. is there a relay? what could be the problem headlight switch bad? they worked at one point for a short time and then i clicked to lows and back and they wouldn't work again... help!

make spacers that go from 5 to 6 lug. all you need is a round steel plate that's the thickness spacer you need, and drill out the center so that it sits flat, and then drill the holes where you need them. any machine shop could do it and probably fairly cheap

p.s. that wasn't sarcasm directed at your statement...it was more of a "i wish" than anything

you can buy parts NEW?!?!??!?! :hmm: I had NO idea!!!!!!!!!! :P

haha, i used a screwdriver to pry them back up...didn't break them but IMO def. not the way to go. the ruler idea is good

put the injectors in first, then place the fuel rail over them...it will require some skillful positioning on your part, but then you don't have the sharp edge. i did it that way on my 3.8 for the EXACT reason of having sharp edges on the intake

the visor will be white, sides will be black. i'm in the market for a rollbar and brush guard. the bra...well, for 5 bucks it does offset the color nicely...where could I go wrong? were you saying the visor is out of style or the stripes are?

HAHAHAHA....ha i laughed. that's what EVERY MAN'S jeep should come equipped with.

what are you basing your info on? that is to say, how do you know the engine is junk rather than in need of some minor parts replacement? 220,000 miles is no excuse...the engines last a long time, unless thoroughly abused.

chief stripes anyone? thanks microsoft paint!

note that I kept the upper edges...I will be doing that with my half doors. but this method allows for retaining the mirrors and maximizing the hole for viewing while wheeling purposes.

lostissues, perhaps expand upon the half doors that I think are ideal...cut it shallower but leave the latch, and you already have the top part off.

over my head lol. my piece of history is the truck itself... I took it to the limits with my 1981 yamaha srx 440 snowmobile though...but that one WILL see shows...I have every shred of literature and coins and even an original helmet and race-suit for it. The deal with that though is that that model of sled was so utterly fast and yet one of yamaha's biggest failures due to faulty crankshaft engineering... So I get WHY you want it. I just don't apply the same thing to my mj.

psh, good luck for me finding one though. the yard I go to has about 5 parts from wranglers...the rest have been removed by greedy wrangler owners.

beefier steering means stronger tierod bars etc. basically, it's stronger and less likely to bend, or fail because of poor joint quality. also, superior design I believe is a big part of it. sorry, no info from this guy on anything else

never knew about them, and wouldn't buy one unless it fell into my lap...my mj may be a mall crawler but it isn't as though I'm going to be needing a commemorative coin for when i take it to shows...

indeed

he took it off a huge jump at high speeds.

I will reinforce it then. even cast iron...I have a welder who can do that for me for very cheap. it's his profession. that and welding aluminum for aircrafts

yes, the bent axle is out of the 3800. the front left tire toes out on the bottom, and in on the top. it's bent on the upper knuckle and has been since i first built the truck. it DOES effect my steering alignment...although I did adjust the alignment to compensate. the axle with the crushed coil bucket is off of my project tatersalad, which I am scrapping. it's straight, the truck just tips to the side. I may have another 30 axle on the way, but I want to test my ideas on this one first for reinforcement purposes.

10-4. thanks Pete

it does, in fact, appear bent...the bottom of the tires appear to be towing outwards a bit. we shall see. a pic of the entire front of the truck would have been best to tell what's bent, but these tell me something isn't right as it is.

the only dana 30 I ever saw with something major wrong with it had the pumpkin shear off the left axle tube...so the diff blew up and the tube came out of the pumpkin.... and i only saw that in a pic. so I'm reinforcing everything i can, simply cause i got the time and might as well. i don't like non-disco axles, i don't like wheel hop on the corners...the truck this is going into is basically a street truck so beefing anything up is purely for the IF situation. as in IF i ever take it wheeling in anything more than some dirt or grass, I would like to know it's done right and capable. heavy duty dana 30 front, 8.8 rear, ax15 from a dakota, and buick 3.8 from a 96 camaro...not ONE part of that truck's drivetrain is original even now, much less after i put those parts in! bulletproof too...

I fractured my ankle (according to the doctors...i disagree) so i've been down for a month and a half already, and have another month and a half to go...time is VERY available. I actually like having the disconnect axle. crazy i know...but i've not had a single problem with mine, as I installed it and replaced all the line. no leaks. but I do want the 297 ujoints...

yours or a friend's? i'm impressed with the original trans and axles...WOW