JeepcoMJ

no sh*t huh?? I said t was factory 5 speed. thing is, it never went to public that way and I'm just not sure why.

I'd do it

home, got vin here's the site I used to decode it ftp://www.knwd.net/pub/jeep/86-88_MJ_VIN_decoder.rtf 1. US manufactured J. Chrysler Motors & Jeep T. Truck W. 2.8L V6 2 Bbl. (Gasoline) W. 5 speed manual shift/2wd 6. eliminator (S) 6. 2dr pickup 1. ???? 0. *Manufacturer assigned G. 1986 T. Toledo, Ohio (production plant) following is the sequential serial number (production sequence) 0 2 2 1 0 1 from factory, it WAS an ax5 5 speed. when I got the truck, I also got dealership papers (chewed by mice so I tossed them) that stated it was sold as an ax4 4 speed. I got it with said 4 speed, and it had the engine replaced with a small journal (1985 or prior) 2.8 chevy motor. so, this truck never made it to public as built from factory. another interesting thing is that it's an "eliminator" or "S" package I presume that the "S" would be 1986 and eliminator is 88 and higher. anyways, correct from factory they were not 4 speeds, from what I can tell. this one was requested with a 4 speed so I presume they did that at the dealership, or in a subsequent repair when the motor was replaced.

lol. yeah, BUT I don't have time for that kinda custom fab...I already know jeep systems pretty well and will probably just dump a HO motor in this and drop a dana 44 rear in and go

ya can get one outta a cherokee and shorten it down, not that hard to do, and then you're still using jeep parts as for me, classes were cancelled so today I'm changing the rear pinion seal and doing a kinda "eh" job of fixing the dent in the bedside...we'll see how it turns out

nice job, it looks all pretty

thanks guys. if I get this thing though, it would be a cheap-a$$ build. I'd build it easy first, and upgrade later on if I feel the need.

I'd like to get the helper spring assembly if you could get them Paul..

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7428

:rotfl2: :rotf: :laughin: we noticed that too...should say, joe did first. nice truck joe

I couldn't afford a buzzer...spent all the $$$ on the camaro motor that's in the engine bay... :roll: j/k lol

4.0 auto schwaaap? SWEET!

NOOOOOO put it back. I'd rather see a ridiculous-sized pic of it than none! schweet painT!

the OHC is already done ;) I got one from a late 90's gmc/chevy yukon with no electronics...I want that space to do a bit of my own handiwork. just gotta recover it :D

bho, please change the size of your profile pic...nice truck but a lil ridiculous lol

repairs done. *whew* :beerhead: now I can :driving: it accomplished in this repair... repaired crack in frame made reinforcement plate for the frame swapped dash and steering column to black replaced ujoints repainted front end relocated intake up higher {edit}installed new swaybar links what's left to do is the rear axle pinion seal (leaked 1/4 cup during the repairs), and at least somewhat fix the dent in the bedside enough talk. on to pics first off, intake relocation to keep it mounted, I built this little bracket out of aluminum. you can see that it's curved to the shape of the filter. I ran a large "hose clamp" around the very end of the filter to clamp it to this. between that and the intake tube, it's a very solid mount that will still flex with motor movement repainted front axle and skidplate note the top of the trackbar mount, it had cracked to I welded it. didn't spend too much time making it pretty since it will be replaced soon anyways the frame reinforcement. this pic was taken standing on the driver's side of the engine bay and from the side. can't really see it all that well anymore... just a pic from farther away and sprayed that last white portion of the engine bay in black motor pic. I gotta say I think I did a great job on that intake...not to get too cocky or anything and finished the interior so now all that's left on the interior is the headliner, OHC, sunvisors, rear lower carpeted panel, and seat belts to be swapped for black. not that big of a list anymore think it turned out OK?[/img]

I'm not gonna lie, that's flat out the most impressive teardown and rebuild I've yet seen keep it up, and keep the pics comin! :cheers:

that 91 is completely shot. buy it, buy a nice comanche with blown motor, and swap parts. as stated, not worth $200. for $200 I got a comanche that only needed a flexplate, and I sold it for $1350. that thing wasn't that nice but the 91 you're looking at makes the one I had look @#$%ing amazing

...uh...what does that accomplish???? you don't need the fan in the winter, same as you don't need the a/c. it's cold. now you have to drive with A/C on so you can cool your engine (more than it should need to be)...I don't get it lol :nuts:

and, start along the sides first. the top piece is under the side pieces. remove the side pieces, then whichever one you feel like removing after that. the bottom is made of 2 pieces.

well, I got some work today. cleaned up all the frame and trackbar mount that need to be welded with a wire wheel, did my steering colum work, and built my intake system. the intake is reloaced from down below the radiator to the front left corner of the engine bay. I had to put 87+ wiper fluid reservoir, and a 94ish xj coolant reservoir in it to open up the space another pic of the frame damage... finished reinforcement bracket. didn't need to triangulate the upper mount. I will be adding 2 more bolts at a later date if I feel so inclined altered and installed the steering column. on the driver's side of it, about the 11 o'clock position is this little mechanism here depressed as pictured, you can remove the key easily. but, if it's like so , you cannot remove the key. this is a safety feature so you don't forget to put the car in park. note the hole that you see in the pictures to the right of the "switch". it's about a 1/8" hole, that you must put in for this fix. drill the hole. then put a zip-tie through it like so secure the zip-tie as it is designed and remove the excess and here's the column in the truck with racing wheel and stock wheel final frame welds tomorrow. the regulator on the welder failed today, so I had to rebuild it, and all the gas leaked out (woozy feelings... :roll: ). getting more gas in the AM and will weld it when I'm done with school. the truck should be up and running, completely finished, by the end of tomorrow.

some of you want tilt columns in your comanches. problem is, the most common ones are from floor-shift automatic cherokees. you can't remove the key without it in "park" but the comanche 5 speed doesn't have that mechanism. so, here is what you do. you get your steering column, and look on the driver's side of it, about the 11 o'clock position for this little mechanism here depressed as pictured, you can remove the key easily. but, if it's like so , you cannot remove the key. this is a safety feature so you don't forget to put the car in park. note the hole that you see in the pictures to the right of the "switch". it's about a 1/8" hole, that you must put in for this fix. drill the hole. then put a zip-tie through it like so secure the zip-tie as it is designed and remove the excess now you are ready to install your column, and you will be able to remove the key. to remove the old column, you need to remove the kneeboard (about 14 screws all-told), unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the column to the dash and the 2 at the firewall. disconnect all wires running to the steering column hopefully, when you removed the column from the donor, you had the whim to remove the steering shaft at the steering box. this is because that end of the steering shaft can only go on one way, whereas the upper end can go on many ways. there is 1 bolt needed to do this. after you remove the bolt that holds the steering shaft to the splines on the input of the steering box, use a cro-bar to get it loose. it won't come off all the way. get inside the truck, and pull the colum out. the shaft will follow, but you may need to go back and forth a bit. reverse to install. I will update with the missing pics when I take them. this is the end result (without knee-board attached)

duct tape? would that make it work? :P yeah, we'll see. I'll get it forst and figure it out later.

Well, you never know. I've seen a lot of SOA's done by people who think all you have to do is flip the perches and those vehicles are a menace to public safty. What fullsize springs are you thinking of? lol, either an 89 grand waggy, or the 73 j4000? the front's no big deal if they don't "fit" right in, I have to make new shackle mounts and a new front crossmember anyways, it would be the rear that I'm concerned with flipping. plus, pinion angle with that SWB and the turbo400/amc20 combo is gonna be a b*sh

Not exactly free. SOA on stock yj springs = death on the highway. You need something a little stiffer so you can hit the brakes without rolling the axle forward. Then there is the matter of the ladder bar that you need to keep the springs from wrapping into s shapes. Then there is the high steer you need because your tierods are contacting the leaf springs. Nothing wrong with a properly setup SOA, but it isn't as simple as flipping the perches. I understand SOA, and fabbing isn't exactly new to me...I can make it work. and, fullsize springs may fit in there pretty well...:D