JeepcoMJ

badger, pinch seams aren't exactly tough. and chances are if your rocker is rusted out, your seam is just as bad...so, if geometry and phyisics bear with me, a good, solid hit with 4 anchor points on the frame side and a similar amount on the pinch seam, may, and probably will, still bend the rockers up pretty good. not to say they aren't protected. they'll take quite a beating I'm sure, but it could be a bit farther from the body to protect it more.

involved? you'll need a torque set. remove header panel (8 bolts, you'll need to take off the headlight bezels. 2 bolts on each side, and 4 on the header panel assembly). 4 torque bolts on the front, somewhere around that many on the top, and 2 o n the bottom by the rocker panel, and 1 or 2 up front of the fender flare on the bottom. you may have to drill the bottom ones out. not sure which size torque it is. don't forget to remove your antenna from the fender too...a crescant wrench will take the antenna off, and same for the base. reinstall the base on the new fender before hooking it up. if you needed a new antenna, now is the time to do it. the inner fender, pop all the plastic snap-bolt things out, and you should be able to pull the fender with flare intact out. however, if you're changing the fender you'll need the flare anyways so get the correct socket and remove the 9 bolts on the inside of the fender that hold the flare on, and the 2 on the bottom that hold the flare to the front air deflector reinstall is opposite.

just grab the throwout plate and bellhousing from the blazer, may as well grab the flywheel and such too just in case. have a dealer/auto parts store cross-reference the part numbers on the flywheel and clutch and throwout bearing just to make sure

location? I need the lower trim pieces and the B-pillar and rear trim. mine are painted, I don't like painted. as for door panels, I'll be making my own unless someone comes up with a real cheap set.

agreed

I just think it's too close to the sheetmetal. a good hit will bend the crap outta the sheetmetal...you do only have 2 mounting points and 4 bolts holding it in. a setup like PETEM's setup would not bend quite so easily...

No, it will not. The bellhousings are completely different. what he said. if you find an ax15 from a dodge dakota, I want the bellhousing. I'd give you a 4.0 bellhousing to go with it, I'd even find you an external slave one (hint, I need an ax15 bellhousing from a dakota so I can put an ax15 behind the 3800) What do you have behind your 3800 now? An AX-5? Is the 3800 V6 a 60 degree V6? Just wondered. yes and yes. check the build thread in MJ projects.

No, it will not. The bellhousings are completely different. what he said. if you find an ax15 from a dodge dakota, I want the bellhousing. I'd give you a 4.0 bellhousing to go with it, I'd even find you an external slave one (hint, I need an ax15 bellhousing from a dakota so I can put an ax15 behind the 3800)

ax5 ax15 they're visually similar except size...the ax5 is shorter than an ax15, and quite a bit less durable. the ax5 was usually mated to a gm 60 degree bellhousing, whereas the ax15 was usually mated to a amc (4.0) housing. the ax15 was available in early dakotas with a gm 60 degree bellhousing

faulty gauge. happened to my oil pressure gauge after the dash swap...installed another opg and now it works just fine. also had this issue with the batt. gauge. these are 20 year old trucks, the gauges aren't that accurate to begin with, and failure happens...I'd say it's your best bet.

actually his looks like it was factory. either way...I don't figure you understand that things can be custom-ordered

stop argument now. I corrected my posts, it came from dealership that way, according to the PO. there ya go. end of argument this club is not for petty disputes, I'm NOT arguing that the 86 didn't come with a ax4, although I know there are some out there. mine had an ax4 from dealer (again, according to PO and bits and pieces of paperwork), which is strange. I admit that they probably didn't come from factory like that, but it did have 3.55 gears in it, and it most certainly does now since the swap to 4wd. again, I cannot stress how much this is NOT going to continue as an argument. this is about T5/T4 transmissions, not about anyone being the 1986 god. if you continue, I'll be requesting that the post be locked or that Pete wipe the posts, cause it's ridiculous

I am not doing anything. All I am doing is stating the facts and you can't face the facts. facts jeep was bought from dealer with ax4. jeep HAS 3.55 gears, the dif plate said so I'm third owner if you count it being in my mother's name it sat in a field behind a barn for 11-13 years until 2004 when I got it motor was also replaced at some point in time it's the way it came to me, and the story I got, plus the scraps of paperwork I got with it (they were literally that) indicated the story I got was true. it's a mutt, but it's one god damned nice mutt. so mr. 53 posts and person_who_knows_too_much_about_1986 comanches, please just calm down and stop being so adament. cars get ordered with funny options all the time, you've now seen one that's strange as hell

lay off it a$$hat

Who? Me? lol. yeah...the Original owner asked for it that way. the whole thing is strange. I read your post quite well. I would bet on it having 3.54 gears. There is hardly any difference between 3.54 gears and 3.55 gears. Basically the same ratio. They are so close that you can run them together on a 4WD. the ratio when I checked was 3.547 or something like that, so it would figure to 3.55 actually. I said you can't read well because you're disregarding what the PO ordered it as. anyways, BACK TO TOPIC. T4/T5 in comanches.

Problem #2 the tractor threw a rod and made an air hole in the block. yeah, big hole hahaha. lucky the crank is fine on it, and we can weld the hole up and it's not structural. new connecting rod, polish the crank up, head gasket, and it's done.

Who? Me? lol. yeah...the Original owner asked for it that way. the whole thing is strange.

you don't read so well

today's accomplishments yanked windows out of doors to put nicer vent wings in, and swapped in the complete single key entry system/glovebox door locks/ignition cylinder from a 94xj swapped pinion yoke seal out on the rear axle since it was leaking and some pics

its pretty odd for a dealer to do ANYTHING if they didn't get paid for it. especially if it involves swapping a 5speed for a 4 speed with the same gearing? that's just a complete waste of time unless the one is exploded. :dunno: thats weird man. you said they also swapped motors at the same time? I'm not sure when they swapped motors. the truck was sold in mid-87 and I think it was a dealership vehicle when it was sold. maybe they beat on it and blew it up and swapped in what they had to sell it? the PO explicitly said he requested it built with an ax4 and v6 2wd. it came with 3.55 gears. lemme see if I can dig up all the info I have left...

Also there is no such thing as a Comanche Eliminator or a Comanche (S) in 1986. That VIN decoder is wrong. Those 6s do not mean anything by themselves. In other words each 6 does not mean something. They are together. 66 is the series of truck that it is. Every Comanche from 1986 to 1988 that is 2WD and has a longbed is a 66 series. Mine is a 66 series also because it is 2WD and it is a longbed of course. Every 1986 Comanche is a longbed. 65 series is the longbed 4WD Comanche, 63 series is the shortbed 4WD Comanche and 64 series is the shortbed 2WD Comanche. thanks. if I'd had a better decoder site I'd have known that already. bookmarked. any idea why a dealer would swap the 4 speed in the truck?. I think it's pretty odd.

yep

lol, not anymore. today I put in a new rear pinion seal, topped off the dif. fluid, topped off the t-case fluid, rebled the clutch, installed the single key entry/ignition off a 94 xj (matched the new steering column), installed better vent wing windows, cleaned all glass. the frames completely fixed, the intake is relocated higher, and the only darned thing that it could possibly need right now is to have the dent pulled, and the subwoofer replaced (cracked). I'd say she's doin pretty good. heck, I even have a cargo light to install now :brows:

figured it out...short in white crossover wire, fixed already...

has locks only, no power windows the door locks on my truck no longer work. there is power to the switch, and the switch seems to function when I use a test light. however, power does not get to the lock cylinders. ground seems fine, I redid the ground just to check. are there any common points for failure? I can't find any TSB's on alldata for it, and the wiring diagrams don't really get as in-depth as I need -thanks