JeepcoMJ

nah, SOA the axles for free lift

not really. it could possibly be a bit warmer but not likely

yea, it should fit. just grab the zj master and booster and use that instead

get a camaro 3.4 longblock and get any 80's chevy s10 fuel injection intake, throttle body, air filter @$$'y, valve covers, engine bay wiring, and under-dash wiring. the computer is under the right hand side of the dash. sounds like that would be easier for you to do, but chasing down parts between different cars sucks. ...like for my 3800 swap, I have all engine components from a 3.8 camaro 1996, I have a renix 4.0 radiator, a HO 4.0 condensor and dryer, a ford v8 mpfi in-line fuel pump, and that was the easiest way for me to go...

simple problem...you may need a new master cylinder. since newer XJ's have drums in the rear, I *think* that your master cylinder would have a small(er) reservoir for the rear brakes. since that's the case, you may be simply running out of fluid in the rear brakes. anyone else think that may be the case?

well, when I get around to getting the title out, I'll post it up...the title is at home, and the truck is in the shop, and I'm driving my XJ so...kinda hard to get it lol.

yet another common misconception...the firewalls changed in the early 86 year to the "4.0" firewall. realistically, the firewalls are only different by about 3" in the bellhousing area on the right hand side, so a hammer fixes the issue when you swap.

I want to install a switch panel where you have to flip the switches in a certain order and leave them flipped in that order (like a combination lock) so that it will start only when the correct sequence is flipped...say, 5 switches. no, it wouldn't be that hard to figure out, but they wouldn't know what all the switches are for...leave them unlabeled and have one activate a horn that will keep beeping until the key is inserted or something...

it would be a road and wheeler truck, mostly wheeler. I don't want to renix it cause it would be a PITA to build my own interior wiring harness. I can get a 350 vette motor that runs great for $125, and it's complete. the trans. and t-case I can get from my buddy at the junkyard for free/the cost of an xj carcass. driveshafts would cost me the most, I build my own motor mounts, I can do my own wiring (a.k.a. build my own painless kit), that leaves me with cost of body panels adding up. so say I redneck it and don't rebuild anything, just put it together and get it goin...I'd have $300 or so in the motor and drivetrain, I have a 80 scout dana 44 rear axle with 3.73 gears and I have dana 30 3.73 gears that I could swap in the front for cost of install kit, and then just body panels. however, I think that this *may* turn into a AMC360/turbo400/dana 20/semi-float 60 rear/44 front combination. the 73 j4000 that I'm getting (for cost of a 4wd swap on a comanche) does need some body work, but it runs and drives great. I could sacrafice it...

no, that's got a pillow block. if you look farther to the left you'll see the driveshaft goes through a bearing assembly to another driveshaft that connects to the transmission.

thanks guys, we'll see. it needs alot of work, it doesn't even have the engine bay harness, but the rest is complete. I want to build it with a CJ grille and painless on a 350 TBI or maybe an LT1, with a 700R4 trans. other than the body panels it needs, I can keep the project lower than $1000 cost, with the most expensive part being the driveshafts it'll need.

on a 4wd swap you basically want a junker 4wd cherokee or comanche. you'll need to have your driveshaft shortened too. need 4wd transmission (2wd one will NOT work) transfercase front axle front driveshaft shift linkages 4wd shifter if your front axle is vacuum actuated, you need a transfercase with that capability if you intend it to work like it does from factory. it's not a hard swap, I've done it twice now on my MJ and my bro's MJ, and am doing it for a guy in trade for a j4000 soon.

why did you cut the bedsides off, and if you're done using them, can I buy them?

I'm kinda looking at a 94 wrangler that needs the hood, fenders, and grille, and doesn't have a motor and most likely won't come with the ax15 trans, but the price may be right. anyways, motor/trans is not a problem, I'm wondering if anyone has hoods, fenders, grilles, or knows where to get them cheap. Id like to keep the body budget less than $500 with paint included if this works out. what's your experiences with YJ's, pros and cons (remember this isn't a 4.2, it would be a HO 4.0 I believe), part pricing etc. thanks in advance

kind of can't be done anymore...all of the extensive "factory"mods that I've done to the truck...(a.k.a. switch to bucket seats, door stickers lost in paint job, swapped interior to black, redid header panel for 4.0 radiator, 3.8 camaro swap, 4wd swap, power locks, and a/c swap is next) I even checked with chrysler and jeep and couldn't get me a build sheet for the truck.

lol, I can search my stuff pretty well...but, I'm searching titles AND original poster sn. it's hard unless you already know exactly what you're looking for

hey bud, I'm not sure really what your skills are or anything, or your history, but I can tell you, when I get a vehicle with a 4 speed manual transmission, I can tell. it was a factory 4 speed 2wd manual. now, I'm not sure if you understand something about jeep; any owner could basically order the jeep however they wanted, so long as the feature was a available feature. now, being that it's the same bellhousing, same transmission EXCEPT that the ax5 simply has a 5th gear and syncro (geonovast did a ax4 to ax5 swap using parts from my dad's old diesel transmission), they're easily interchangeable. the thing is, I'm the second (3rd since it was in my mom's name for 2 years) owner of the vehicle, and the original owner said he ordered it 2wd 2.8 4 speed because it never saw winter or highway use. he didn't need 5th gear so he didn't get it. just because it wasn't available in the brochure or on the showroom floor doesn't mean a build sheet couldn't be built for it. that's almost like saying that 1986 was the only year for a 4 cylinder 5 speed 4wd comanche (I've been told that's fact, when I owned a factory original 4 cyl 5 speed 1987 4wd comanche, and that trans is now in this 86). anyways, back to Pete's topic, yes I've seen 3 comanches with T4 or T5 transmissions, years 86 to 87, and 2 were 4 cylinders, the other was a v6. the v6 was a swap and the engine/tranny were from an 84 or 85 2.8 cherokee, so that doesn't count.

To the best of my knowledge the T-4 and T-5 were never used in the Comanche. They were only available in the 1984 Cherokee when they had a production shortage of the AX4 and AX-5. My 1986 Jeep Comanche factory workshop manual does not list the T-4 or T-5 as being used. They only list the AX-4 and AX-5. Also people keep insisting that the 2.8L V6 came with an AX-4 4 speed manual transmission and they did not. They were never available with a 4 speed and it was never an option. The 2.8L V6 either had an AX-5 5 speed manual or a 3 speed automatic. The 2.1L Turbo Diesel was only available with a 5 speed manual. sorry to call it...but that's not correct. my 1986 comanche was 2wd and ax4 originally. it had a 2.8 and had never had anything done to it except blow the transmission, and replace the blown 2.8 with a rebuilt 2.8. after the tranny blew, it sat in a field for years and years until I came up on it, with the tranny laying in pieces in the bed. oh, it had 60,000 original miles on it at that point as well.

that's a hell of a deal for free man...I'm jealous

:P I have 3 complete sets of grey bucket seats, plus that other set of black ones you sent me, plus the blue ones that were in my truck when I started. I'm all set believe it or not :roll: but, if you find any rear trim in black, or another horn button (the one like the one you sent me) in black, that would be great :D

I decided to FINALLY get the dash swapped. found out that I had 2 dead mice on top of the heater box and alot of mouse crap. now it doesn't smell anymore, suffice to say :D old dash...when I removed it I cracked the dash completely apart, it was very dry new dash. the main part of it is actually vinyl dyed black...it was red before dash out I'm happy with it. the steering column will go in when the trackbar bracket is in...can't put the bracket in with the shaft in. the colum is from a 94 xj, which is the same except that it's a chrysler ignition cylinder. converting my doors to the same thing, 1 key entry and ignition. i expect to be driving it again by the end of the week

they're the same

alright, the bracket is done, just gotta paint it then, I decided to FINALLY get the dash swapped. found out that I had 2 dead mice on top of the heater box and alot of mouse crap. now it doesn't smell anymore, suffice to say :D old dash...when I removed it I cracked the dash completely apart, it was very dry new dash. the main part of it is actually vinyl dyed black...it was red before dash out I'm happy with it. the steering column will go in when the bracket is in...can't put the bracket in with the shaft in. the colum is from a 94 xj, which is the same except that it's a chrysler ignition cylinder. converting my doors to the same thing, 1 key entry and ignition. i expect to be driving it again by the end of the week

only one thing to say... mid-engine :brows:

he's saying the hole is not visible yet. and he was just driving into his driveway I think. but yeah, sounds to me like maybe the trackbar wasn't made properly for the quantity of lift on there...it should angle up and then level out at the top if it's going to work properly