JeepcoMJ

lol, I'm no expert, but I've got the wiring diagrams and my swap was very similar...how I did it may not be your style, just would like to try to ensure that you run into as few of problems as possible.

2.8's from a chevy s10 or blazer would have the TBI. retrofitting a TBI from something like a 4.3 to a 2.8 (or 3.4) would be expensive, making the swap pointless. also, putting that TBI or carb from the 2.8 on would kill power and economy...the point is to get both, and MPFI can give that to you alot better, plus I'm not even kidding, there's about 20 wires to remove entirely, and 7 to splice, and a fuse box in the engine bay to alter (remove ABS control, air shock control, etc). it's really not rocket science...you're tricking the motor into thinking it's still in the camaro

lol, I thought I was being constructive... that is the concept basically, so a bit tighter should have gotten the pin in

uh...you have this bolt on the tie rod end, which isn't exactly identical to any other bolt as the thread starts at a different location, and this nut, which doesn't have the exact same starting location for the threads as any other nut. so, couple that, and you come up with 55 ft. lbs being a "give-or-take" measurement. keep going until you can get the cotter pin in

check your shocks

nope, not even close to correct. the 3.4 is a MPFI injection system, it has 6 injectors with a throttle body. not TBI. still easy, and like I said to him, he just needs the engine and IT'S harness....I wouldn't get an engine from one vehicle and a harness from another and even computer from another, as things could be wrong. but, idk, I've only basically done this swap with a bit more pep anyways ;) the only reason I'd want the whole car is that you get the added insurance of having everything you'd possibly need. plus, I smashed my camaro even more before I yanked the motor :roll:

first car that was "mine" 1972 vw beetle baja conversion. $300 in decent shape but needed work to run (had learned how to work on vw's because of having sandrails previously). that never went on the road, I traded it for a 1985 volkswagon cabriolet straight up, bought tires for the cabrio, installed a stereo, and patched the roof. that was in august after my junior year of high school. sold it in january of my senior year (regret it, that was a damn good car), for $1300...after spending $1100 for a complete new rear end, as I knocked the old one out of the car while attempting to drift. it didn't owe me anything though. when I sold that, the $1300 payed for 2/3 of the paint job on the 3800, my 1986 jeep comanche that was originally 2wd 4 speed 2.8 and bench seat. payed $300 for that truck, with a total of $6300 invested in it today. now in an 86 cherokee (not for long) as well, and soon to be getting a pair of xj's that I can make one that's already lifted out of. and that doesn't even encompass the 2 other driving MJ's I've had, and all 7 or 8 parts MJ's and xj's :D

i though you got rid of that thing, because the last few times i've been over, he wasn't around. nope, he goes with my mom sometimes.

yep, got them will post tomorrow afternoon when I'm back at my PC (stupid laptop not having a card reader) anyways, plow truck = salt, rust, and lots of that getting kicked up into places you wouldn't think of. the low miles means it sat for a LOOONG time. now, unless the owner assured me that it was washed after every use, and then garaged, and even then, whether or not it sat with the plow mounted all the time or if they took it off when not in use, I would not buy it. no 12k mile drivetrain is worth the $5k estimate that that truck would be worth, so without knowing the exact history of the truck, I wouldn't buy it.

the plow really is that heavy. when it was on my bro's truck, his truck would squat almost that low, and it had 3" lift coils in it. they really just aren't plow trucks. (although they do alright)

still...the condition of the plow makes me leary of it. and the sidesteps. I had sidesteps on my 89 and look at the thing...MINT floors basically, and the rockers were absolutely gone.

built the bracket today. it can't go in or come out with the steering shaft in the truck, which to take out I had 2 options...drop the steering box, or remove the steering colum. I chose steering column because I need to swap it anyways. then made the bracket found even more cracks top and bottom of the factory bracket and got this supercharger for $25 today. ford thunderbird super coupe the bracket designs changed a bit when I found the angles of the frame to be different than what I could remember.

because you put them in?

nope, it'll collapse your bedrail. best bet is to find one that's crunched, spend a day dropping the entire front subframe with engine/trans intact, gutting the harness, interior, and anything good off the car, then sawzall it up and haul the chunks to the scrapyard. a given weekend will be enough time to accomplish that.

there's nothing to say but "front half" or "from dash forward" front clip is the fenders, bumper, hood. not any support or any engine etc.

haha, and how do you like the healer (aussie shepherd)...we have one and he's a menace

your truck isn't pre-wired for it, it's all lay-in stuff though. you need the complete door and crossover harness(es) from a 2 door cherokee with power windows. get those, lay them in, attach the switch panels. you will need a power window regulator and motor from a 4 door cherokee front door for each side. it is a plug and play system, but like I said, w door is the system you want. cut out the rear hatch harness from the cherokee harness, re-wrap the wiring, and ta-da it works. the 4 door system has 2 extra switches and wiring that will need to be cut out, since you don't have rear doors.

is there anyone else with an opinion of this repair? and anyone who would be interested in this reinforcement? I can make a steering box reinforcement and brace assembly to go with it.

I'm not sure what else is related to it sensor-wise. mostly what's on the engine. you neeed the same computer from the same engine...there is a chance that they'd give you the wrong year computer and then it wouldn't run well. so, IMO you'll want a junkyard motor, and if you can con them into chopping the car in half or just yanking the motor nicely and letting you do the wiring harness, that is the way to go. I wouldn't trust them yanking the harness (or the motor for that matter, wires will probably be cut in the process), but if you can't get the whole car to your place, then that's your option.

nope. you have 2 options here. 1. get a painless wiring harness, and go with an edelbrock 4bbl intake and a holley 390cfm carb, or even make the camaro/firebird computer work with the painless kit (almost impossible). 2. get a motor from a donor car. best to get the whole car (rear end accident, w/e), and gut it. you particularly want the engine bay harness and computer, and all related sensors to the engine. by doing it like so, you can simply cut out the things you don't need and use only the essentials for running the motor. this way there is nothing that could go wrong except cutting the wrong wire. in which case, check, double check, and check again before you cut. the second method includes every single part that you would need to make the truck run with the camaro motor in it, at a lesser cost. cost this way should be around $600 for the whole car, but if you get it for less than $1200 you're doing fine. buy a rebuild kit ($400) and go through the motor now, or simply put all new gaskets on it except head gaskets (this way you don't have to do a complete teardown), and you don't have to spend $400 on a wiring harness. and...I can get you the necessary diagrams

:D

yep. that's a view from the "driver's position" on the driver's side of the truck. behind that on the left would be your coil spring and shock mounts, and on the right my motor mount is directly behind that location. I will be able to make these as a bolt-on kit for anyone who wants them, and can incorporate a frame reinforcement for behind the steering box as well, as well as a steering brace mount...then you would just need to run a crossover bar and mount, which I can also make. all of those things will be going in this truck soon, but first is the trackbar reinforcement.

and another pic, just so you guys understand what I'm doing...

designed my bracket, it will look like this made from 1/8" thick steel plate, and ribbed, it's going to follow the contours of the frame from the trackbar lower bolts to the upper bolts. It will have one rib running from the bottom all the way to the top support. this will act as reinforcement should the problem happen again. the upper bolts will now bolt directly to this bracket, and the lower 2 will be studs welded to the bracket. then I will also drill two holes through the frame, and weld 1/16" thick steel tube through the frame in two places mid-way between the lower bolts and uppers. I will put bolts through those tubes from the outside through, which will give me not just 4, but 6 anchor points to the frame. that will fix my trackbar problems :D then from there it's just intake relocation, remount the skidplate and track bar, and I'm all done with all the mechanical aspects.

selling to my bro because another xj that's already built will be coming my way soon. his plans are 3" lift, chrome front bumper and brush guard that were on my 89, switch to tan interior, 31x10.50 tires.