JeepcoMJ

it's not an 8.8, and it's not a chryco 8.25. closest thing I know of is a dana 44 but that's not it either. chrysler 8 and 3/4?

yes they're fine. when you flex, they'll pull down and it may have a tendency to bind when compressing after full flex on the droop side, but it will correct itself. they'll work just fine.

have any more pics of that red and white J10? there weren't many of them made in that paint colour...I have fond memories of my dad's old J10 that looked just like that.

not really any way to know if you will need a new DS or not until you get into it. will you be able to run your existing DS? probably I was able to drive my 89 with 6.5" lift and stock DS with a dana 44...but if the rear drooped it fell out... you'll most likely have to get it retubed though, or find a longer one to get shortened

looks like time to bumpstop for you...your tires are WAAAY too big for that lift as it is. bumpstop so it doesn't flex that far UP and gain some down-travel, and you're all set :brows: looks good tho. had it out yet? a buddy of mine had beadlocks with lock rings similar to that...ended up cutting the center out wider because mud gets in there and stays (really bad vibrations)

that i an ABSOLUTE WASTE of money dude. post in the classifieds what color you need, with a pic of your interior...WTB for it. someone will have something for you.

yes you will need a new drive shaft, unless you've got a dana 35 now and are putting a dana 44 in it...then the driveshaft might be long enough. get a YJ slip yoke, it will take away the vibes.

that looks familiar :nuts:

haha. well the side protection isn't done yet...but the main part of the bumper is pretty much there. I just need to finish weld the back (which is towards the front lol) of the bumper, and finish the D-ring mounts. but here's pics so far. I think it's wicked...and the ends look like coffins haha mounts (outers) need to drill 3 more holes right side end here you can see my trailer hook mounts with chain to show them.. I capped a couple of 1x1 pieces then cut one side out of them, and inset them in the bumper...though those hooks are sunk in, that's still water tight, and strong (enough...frankly if my trailer comes off the hitch, I WANT it to completely fall off for my sake) taking it off bright and early, finish welding it, do a small amount of grinding (I like the raised welds) and while the paint dries I'll put the fuel pump back in it.

everything you said is true... if you have a cherokee. comanches have NO reason to have SYE. because the wheel base is longer, the driveshaft angles don't get too extreme even at 6.5"...you just need to have the right drive shaft made. you'll also benefit from using a YJ slip-yoke as it allows another 13 degrees of downwards flex on the drive shaft...reducing chances of blowing a driveshaft ujoint at full droop. I have an SYE in my 87 shortbed...for the simple fact that the entire transfercase was only $250, and I can now drive home even if I destroy my rear drive shaft. had that case not been available, I wouldn't have gone out and bought an SYE to install.

Actually its designed to fall down and suppress fires. huh. didn't know that. of all the jeeps I've got...only one has the hood insulation in it, and for good reason...it DOES help with noise. ANYTHING to help quite down that chatterbox diesel lol (hell it's got firewall insulation on it too!)

of the two chief's I have scrapped (87 and 89), both had full skids tow hooks but both were missing the roll bars (and sadly I didn't know about the roll bar lower brackets back then), factory fog lights, bucket seats (mix with/without full console), and dana 44's. And the one I currently have (have to pick it up yet) has full skids, tow hooks, roll bar (currently in my wheeler), fog lights, and bucket seats with mini console, and a dana 44. they have also all been 4.0 automatics 3 for 3 kinda puts it out of the "optional" realm into the "standard" realm IMHO

cut out the rusty/broken chunks, weld in a new plate (make the plate larger than that area and weld it in around the inside edge of the cut, and make a few spot welds as well), then weld the hinge right back to it.

started building the rear bumper angle shot from right before starting on the corners close-up before starting on the corners. steel stock for bumper corners, rock rail mounts, and spare tire mount. there's also two more 8' sticks of 2x6x3/16 for the rock rails tool of the day...millar 110/220v plasma cutter rear view. camera sucked but you can sort of see how I'm boxing it in side view...the extra part sticking out is part of the clevis mount. that's as far as I got before I went with some friends to see Watchmen...awesome movie btw. finish the main bumper tomorrow, hopefully rock rails and tire mount too.

yea i know thats why I'm using his cherokee before it goes of to the junker, only thing I'm missing though is going to be the tranny and transfercase, which i might have already found one, but from a 92, anyone know if that would work, K, good. I'm primarily directing that repetitive statement of SWAP EVERYTHING to the OP so he doesn't end up getting SOL trans from 92 will not work directly, but if you had a fried 97-02 aw4 I'd imagine you can swap that extra sensor it has into your 92 one.

hella cool rear bumper so far angle shot from right before starting on the corners close-up before starting on the corners. steel stock for bumper corners, rock rail mounts, and spare tire mount. there's also two more 8' sticks of 2x6x3/16 for the rock rails tool of the day...millar 110/220v plasma cutter rear view. $#!&ty camera sucked but you can sort of see how I'm boxing it in side view...the extra part sticking out is part of the clevis mount. that's as far as I got before I went with some friends to see Watchmen...awesome movie btw. finish the main bumper tomorrow, hopefully rock rails and tire mount too.

I like them better actually. the old style ones are very comfortable...these ones are just as comfortable (remember they're ALWAYS more comfortable when there's still actually padding in them), and allow me to get more leg room since they're thinner and I can push them farther back Thanks...I'm really happy with it so far. not perfect...the material doesn't contour easily lol so there are wrinkles...but honestly, who cares? it's freaking camo baby! haha. Parents asked what the camo fabric was for...I said it was so people couldn't see me while driving :clapping: Tim, I'll call you back in the morning...I may not be able to come out there until mid afternoon, or I can help you all day sunday instead. my brother needs help with his brakes...and I'm waist deep in a wicked @$$ rear bumper righ tnow :banana:

and keep my "unmentionables" in an overhead pocket :clapping:

I couldn't find what I wanted within a reasonable time...so I said screw it. still need to do the A pillars and driver's B pillar, then the center console. those are the seats I'm running in it...I'll get camo waterproof seat covers for them eventually.

I have like 20 sets of DCU's you could use the fabric from.. lol. thanks. at this point, I don't care to change the fabric...it's halfway in, looks halfway decent, and, in the end, the truck is still a wheeling truck so *shrug*. (would be cool to have an *authentic* headliner lol)

I here ya and it is much appreciated. ;) Any 97+ conversion (less the front clip and doors) are a long way down the road. I need to MJ as my DD after I get my Masters in May... Then comes job, home, yada-yada.... I am only trying to get parts now as this guy is selling stuff a whole lot cheaper than I have seen anywhere in the Midwest :yes: What research I have done led me to believe the MJ HO shares much of the same fuel system (rail, TB, tank sending unit, etc) as the 'modern' 4.0 with a distributor. Back when I owned a YJ with the 4.2, I wanted that darn fuel injection like nothing else and studied it a lot. In any case I am glad I will never need to hunt down a 91/92 tank sending. Now you have got me thinking about the AW4 computer. If the pre 97 and post 97 units will not work with each other, do the AW4 computers store and modify shift points as the new 42RLE does? I have read that is is dangerous the flash the PCM of a newer TJ if the 42RLE has a lot of miles on it because the PCM will reset to default shift points causing rough shifting and slipping. I will do what I can to get the wiring and everything it attaches to from this XJ. Do what I can to get all of the right parts collected over the years. Now I want to investigate the 98 wiring diagram and 92 wiring diagram to see about custom wiring the newer dash gauges to my existing harness... After all, its all electronic! no. the fuel rails are not the same though they "interchange". however that wouldn't allow it to run with the 97+ system. the intake changed in mid 1999, so any 4.0 intake after that is for hp gain. the 97+ aw4 simply has an additional controller of some sort, and the computer is simply different and not interchangeable. the 98 gauges WILL NOT WORK unless run the entire 98 swap. they are computer-controlled through the 98's engine computer rather than the old style with the simple 1 wire, sensor, grounded to block. flat out won't work no other way about it UNLESS you're a technical genious and can design, build, and program a circuit board to take all sorts of different readings and put them into some semblence of functional order on the 98 gauge cluster. hence me mentioning prior that you will need custom gauges such as autometer to complete a swap of this proportion. I'm doing a 97+ interior conversion on my 86 comanche. it has a 1996 camaro buick 3800 v6 in it that runs off it's own seperate harness. that allows me to delete all engine-related factory wiring. go from there, I only need one relay for the headlights, wire up the turn signals with fuses, a relay for the blower motor, Hvac system, power supply for the radio, and power supply for the autometer gauges I will be installing. the 98 conversion without actually doing the entire conversion is so complex and simply ridiculously complicated that it is not something I'd hazard to tackle...and you're talking to someone who built an entire engine wiring harness to trick that camaro engine into thinking it's still in a camaro.

I couldn't find what I wanted within a reasonable time...so I said screw it. still need to do the A pillars and driver's B pillar, then the center console. those are the seats I'm running in it...I'll get camo waterproof seat covers for them eventually.

remember you either need a full complete upgrade to 97+ parts (ALL drivetrain engine etc.), or you need to get custom gauges and do some custom wiring.

you're probably going about it the wrong way..a complete swap is necessary to convert to 97+ HO. this means engine, transmission, engine wiring and sensors, interior, interior wiring, gauges, interior accessories, heater box and Hvac system, cooling system, trans cooling lines, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, 02 sensors, down pipe, fuel lines, fuel pump, gas tank sending unit (needed from 91/92 MJ), vacuum system, evap system, throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, engine computer, trans computer. EVERYTHING. you're not going to be able to successfully convert any other 4.0 to work with those parts. you could probably retain any other 4.0 block and convert literally EVERYTHING else to H.O. meaning head and all other parts. your older aw4 trans won't work with the 97+ wiring...there is a different spare sensor inside it and the connectors are different. you basically want the whole of what's left on that thing. if the motor or trans isn't there, fine. those can be had out of 97+ xj's easily enough. but pretty much you aren't gonna be able to go about it the way it looks like you want to. sorry to be negative...I don't want you to get into a bad position with no way out.

Thanks for the recommendation. I assume the interior/engine harness are attached to each other? If not, I'll be sure to grab all of the harness parts. How different are the HO MJs and pre 2001 XJ's? I figure plug ends have changed, but not a whole lot with the OBDI system. In any case, the dash swap is a ways down the road. I need to worry about saving my cab corners from the rust just starting. The cut off year for differences is 1994 for interchangeability with H.O. MJ's. that is, 91-94 are all the same. 95 to 96 are similar but the wiring is not interchangeable...1995 is a OBD1 and 1996 is a hybridbetween OBD1 and OBD2, 1997 is the interchange year to full on OBD2 and 1998-2001 are all the same wiring (perhaps a few different plugs and connectors, and intake manifold changes). no XJ's were produced after 2001. no systems are compatible between each other, save the 1991-1994 xj's/mj's, and the 1998-2001 xj's. they are not compatible with renix systems, nor are the motors. the heads are different (1987-1990, 1991-1996, 1997-2001), the blocks are all the same from 1987 to 2001 but there are some timing differences, and in 1991 they deleted the engine knock sensor. though heads interchange (respective to the above listed years) between different years than the wiring does on the high outputs, the wiring still remains compatible with ONLY the above listed years. engine computers are compatible 1991-1995 for sure, and you may be able to lot in 1996 with that (I have no information on the differences between 1995 and 1996 ecu's). engine computers from 1997-2001 are compatible. obviously check the application (i.e. automatic, manual, body control options). 1987-1990 ecu's are compatible with each other, though again respective to transmissions in the vehicle. hopefully that clears things up for you.