JeepcoMJ

We lucked out big time, several years ago. knowing that the engine in the truck has issues (cracked precup cylinder #3, cracked cylinder wall in #2, plus 238,000 miles), we were looking for a new engine for it. My dad was driving home one day and saw an oil pan facing skywards on a guys trailer, surrounded by scrap. noted that it was the same as the diesel's oil pan..so he turned around to look. low and behold it's a complete, brand new, never installed or run beyond testing @ the factory...2.1L turbo diesel motor. it'd been in storage for 19 years, as the owner had bought it as a "spare" for the cherokee he loved so much. the cherokee, long gone from rust and a car accident, never got the motor. so the motor sat...covered, high, and dry, for all that time. he finally gave it away to a guy to use on a log splitter...but the guy couldn't figure the engine out, so he gave up and just so happened to toss it on the scrap trailer on the same day my dad was driving by. $75 later, we had a brand new 2.1l motor (complete less intake and exhaust manifold and turbo). We proceeded to tear it down to inspect it...and the story rings true..it's new. We wanted to reseal it anyways, as the seals are all 20 years old and haven't been lubed in memorable past. anyways, pics of the motor the motor even had a fuel injector timer/pump on it...a part that retails for $3600. the big deal about the price on the motor is that you can't even buy a valve for $75, much less a complete motor...there's around 12,000 in parts on that new motor if we stripped it out. heck, all of the little anodized gold parts are still perfect anodized gold contrary to belief, the 2.1l block is NOT a 60 degree gm bellhousing block. though it does use an ax5, like the 2.5 and 2.8l motors, it doesn't even share the input shaft much less the bellhousing...this makes it very, very hard to find. cylinders look brand new as well pile of parts...valve cover, etc. head gasket and renault 2.1L OEM technical book. we kept the head gasket because we'll need to measure it and compare it to the available head gaskets...there were 4 different ones, and the correct one must be used or the motor could detonate (very, very fine tolerences/clearances for the valves) the nice, new, uncracked head. I have pressure tested it and it's kosher this is an OHC motor... nicely machined compression surface... This will be months in the making. I hope to start on the body work within the next few weeks. -Pat

amc20 rear, with metric tonne leafs. this is all factory, with 4.10 gears. and yes, the load sensing valve is inoperative the truck itself plan is to restore the truck using the 3800 as parts. the 3800 was my 3.8l camaro v6 powered 86 MJ...started out life as a 2.8l v6 5 speed 2wd. I won't mention what I'm doing exactly, but that it is legal and will require "inspection" and positive proof of where the majority of the parts came from, as well as proof of legal ownership of both vehicles. The basic idea is to restore the body and interior as well as reseal the BRAND NEW engine for it then swap everything over in a weekend or two. This is still my dad's truck until he gets his cummins, and I'm restoring it because he hates driving a POS

This was the first comanche in my family...an '86 (longbed, of course) 4x4 with a Renault 2.1l turbo diesel, ax5 5 speed, np207 t-case, AMC20 rear axle, metric tonne with 4.10 gears. 10(ish) years ago when we got it, it wasn't too bad. My dad bought it from the original owner, and we even have all the window stickers and tags for it. When we got it, it had 102,000 miles on it and a blown timing belt...the owner had ignored the "suggested" advisory to replace the timing belt @ 89k miles, as per the factory service manual. end result, since it's an interference motor, was a few bent valves, some broken rockers, and $1000 in parts. not bad, though...the truck was $200. So, now it's rusty, and the frame has started to go what I will term "freakjeep", though I still believe he's got me one-upped. pics. battery is located on driver's side, rather than the typical pass. side. intercooler on the driver's side air filter canister and turbo gauge cluster boost gauge replaces the volt meter...unfortunate, but cool enough to justify it ugly blue interior very rusty bed. cab corners and floors are gone

truck is stripped and has become a donor to restore my diesel comanche

I believe it's more or less going to look like the side of mine... Image Not Found just that his will go back to meet the fender flare and continue the same angle as the flare on the inside...

ouch. when you get that bumper off, and the header and fender off, inspect extremely closely @ the driver's side frame rail to see if it crinkled over to the passenger side...the factory tow hook brackets should have helped keep it all in line but it's probably not quite straight anymore. that could mean you need to reinforce the frame rail around the steering box area, on top of straightening it out. your inner fender is sure to be FUBAR. with a BFH and some elbow grease you *may* get it to straighten up a bit, but getting the fender/header/hood to all line up right is going to be interesting, to say the least.

mmm...not too sure truth be told. I gave away my last 4 cyl intake/exhaust setup so I can't go out and look :-/

IIRC, renix 2.5's have a coolant passage through the intake manifold. probably just leaking from there.

What is the reason behind needing the steering column? 95 column wiring is completely different from 84-94, and not directly interchangeable. all of the switches are actually located next to the steering wheel, rather than the old style having metal rods going down near the firewall to flip switches down there. it would be a serious amount of time to figure out all of the switches and make everything work, using the older style column.

you can make it work out with a bit of force, to keep minimal trimming...

you'd end up with holes in it either way. the ribs are bubbled up, and hollow underneath so it would bring it down to the bed anyways.

the ribbing on the jeep MJ liners makes the bar sit too high to bolt down flush to the bed. an MJ roll bar actually is somewhat structural...it's supposed to have frame plates that bolt it down to one of the bed mounts. -Pat

you have to cut holes in the bedliner to make it fit. that's how they did it with the factory. IIRC, they cut a hole out for the actual tube then cut flaps out of it that you can fold out to bolt it down and not have huge holes. I can't explain it proper, and don't have pics...

steering column and shifter related parts as well. you may want to keep the frame horns from the '95 just in case. you will only need the engine bay and dash wiring as far as wiring goes. for the rear wiring, you just need to cut the connectors off with a bit of tails on them to splice into the MJ rear harness. -Pat

trans, torque converter, bellhousing, flexplate, trans wiring harness, engine bay harness, engine computer, transmission computer, automatic TPS. tranny mounts, brake pedal assembly. I think that's about it. the ECU, engine harness, TCU, flexplate, and torque converter all need to be specific to either high output or renix, depending on the vehicle they're going in.

looks good! gonna wrap it around to meet the fender flares?

the upper spot of the wheel well (where it rusts out on ours) is good for patch panels. it's a shorter wheel well, but pretty darn close on the top end. so yes, get the parts.

I need to see what they're gonna look like. even a rough'd out set. I know that 4" round lights won't fit, unless you bubble them out like the liberties and jeep 2500's...that's going by my measurements. I guess I'll go ahead and bow out on one set, then. these are a great idea, but I know exactly what I want and if I'm not going to get that then I will just build a set. I will still take one set no matter how it turns out...building an MJ for a local friend right now, and he wants a set...doesn't care what they look like. -Pat

time to sell 'em...

long time no see colton. IDK what else you could use. an xj tank is the most compatible because you can make it work with everything on your fuel gauge.

I have a 360, and have MW2, but don't play online. the extent to which I game is to buy a game, play it straight til I've beat it, and basically don't play it again until I'm bored and can't find something else to do. just one of those things...don't want to get addicted to it...

let it die with dignity... know when to quit.... the list of why not's is bigger than the list of why to's

as I told you over the phone, it's worth it. I'd bone...er...buy it. somehow I knew the first response to your thread was going to be about some yahoo telling you to do a 4bt swap (no offense sir sam..) my dad's old 80's j truck got up to 21mpg, no less than 15mpg. pretty comparable to a 4.0 if you ask me...

SCUDA Self Contained Underwater Driving Apparatus :rotf: :cheers:

I think the idea is to measure first, and it would probably be a good idea to rough one out of sheet steel and figure out what you can fit for lights and what the easiest way to cut and bend will be.